'02 p32 8.1 L - cranks, won't start

[snoshred]

I've got an '02 Winnebago Sightseer 27c with an 8.1 gas engine. Pulled it out yesterday to get going on spring cleaning. Cranked but didn't start. Pulled it back onto the asphalt from the dirt w/ a tow strap to take a better look. Tried it again, it started. Test drove just fine. Parked it and left it running. It died after a few minutes at idle.
Hmm, did some searching here and it sounded a lot like a bad crankshaft position sensor (found the GM recall as well). I replaced the sensor. Still cranks but no start. No spark at the plugs - fuel appears to be present @ the fuel rail and I can smell it in the exhaust pipe as well as hear the pump running.
Just read the OBD and it's PO335 - which is crank position sensor circuit malfunction -
Does this ring a bell with anyone? I really want avoid towing to the service center if you know what I mean!!
Thanks in advance

[TandW]

Do you have to clear the code? Just askin'!

[snoshred]

Should I clear the code?
I actually just read the code and wrote the post...

[snoshred]

OK, I cleared the code.
Re-cranked the engine a few times. No start, No code...Thanks

[Full-Timers]

From the Workhorse Manual for DTC P0335

Diagnostic Aids

The following conditions may cause this DTC to
set:
– Poor connections/terminal tension at the
sensor. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and
Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
– Crankshaft reluctor wheel damage or
improper installation
– Excessive air gap between the CKP sensor
and the reluctor wheel
– The engine running out of fuel
– Foreign material passing between the
sensor and the reluctor wheel

Excess crankshaft end play causes the CKP
sensor reluctor wheel to move out of aligNment
with the CKP sensor. This could result in any
one of the following conditions:
– A no start
– A start and stall
– Erratic performance

For an intermittent, refer to Intermittent
Conditions.

A faulty CMP sensor can give similar results.

Check CMP sensor before CKP/PCM.

[snoshred]

Dang, still have not been able to track this down. It has thrown the PO335 code again while cranking - still no start -
What are the odds that the new cps is bad?

[angelman]

Try disconnecting the chassis battery for a few minutes. Then try to restart. This will reboot the ECM.

[nipper310]

How did you read the code ??

[snoshred]

With an OBD code reader. It plugs into a big connector just under the dash to the left of the steering column.
I'm still stuck in the driveway with this problem?

[RocketDork]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers – Poor connections/terminal tension at the sensor. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems. – Crankshaft reluctor wheel damage or improper installation – Excessive air gap between the CKP sensor and the reluctor wheel

This is the place I'd start! Confirm that all of these things are not the problem, then maybe we can get you to the next steps. I'd personally lead toward damaged wiring, corroded connections, or that the gap is wrong on the sensor. You did say you replace it, correct? Did you measure that you had the gap between the sensor and reluctor wheel correct?

[snoshred]

Thanks Rocket!
I finally had time to look at this again. Just for grins I popped the cps out again and put it back in. The engine cranked and I confirmed I had spark - no error codes this time. This lead me to fuel. I didn't have fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail? Hmm, I popped out the fuel pump relay and put it back in. Fuel was present this time but it was intermittent. Put in a new fuel pump relay and it started first try. Gotta love the combo of cps and relay that put me on the sidelines all summer! Thanks again to all who chimed in....

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by snoshred Gotta love the combo of cps and relay that put me on the sidelines all summer! Thanks again to all who chimed in....

snoshred, Just went through the same exercise and metered 0 PSI on the rail. Found - bad fuel pump after only 7 years and 86,400 miles. Amazing how these things wear out ...

Removed and re-socketed the FP Relay - didn't help. Found power was being sent to the pump but the pump was not responding.

[BEBOP]

The more I read these posts the more convinced I become that those Amish people may not be wrong after all .
It just seems like if it can break then it will sooner or later amd often sooner :(
Bebop