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Old 11-30-2012, 10:44 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Stano View Post
Can I inspect or see my serpentine belt by taking the inside floor cover off over the engine compartment on my 2003 Pace Arrow? Its on a 22 Workhorse chassis.
There is 51k miles on the engine now, should I be concerned about the condition of the serpentine belt? New Class A owner here!

Stano
That's how I replace mine, through the dog house at the top. Now's the time for a new one so that you'll have a spare on board that you know will work. Also your driveway is the place to practice and gather the proper tools to carry, rather than Death Valley in an emergency.
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:11 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by tropical36 View Post
That's how I replace mine, through the dog house at the top. Now's the time for a new one so that you'll have a spare on board that you know will work. Also your driveway is the place to practice and gather the proper tools to carry, rather than Death Valley in an emergency.
On the 36B you cannot access the serpentine belt from the doghouse hatch, got to get it from underneath. I changed the alternator and belt in about an hour maybe an hour and a half. Not the best arrangement but it is doable.
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Old 12-01-2012, 03:18 PM   #17
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On the 36B you cannot access the serpentine belt from the doghouse hatch, got to get it from underneath. I changed the alternator and belt in about an hour maybe an hour and a half. Not the best arrangement but it is doable.
Whatever it takes, I guess and I think I'm liking my old National product more and more each day.
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:53 PM   #18
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Mine does not look like any fun at all. I can see a about a foot of it from the wheel well and another foot from underneath, nothing I can reach as far as I've figured out yet. I have not figured out how to see enough to draw a diagram of it, much less change it.
The good part, I could read the GM #s and 6PK2610 from the wheel well and from underneath I could not see or feel any cracks on the inside of the belt; so changing it is still a work in process. Maybe a P-32 is more difficult.
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:09 AM   #19
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Mine does not look like any fun at all. I can see a about a foot of it from the wheel well and another foot from underneath, nothing I can reach as far as I've figured out yet. I have not figured out how to see enough to draw a diagram of it, much less change it.
The good part, I could read the GM #s and 6PK2610 from the wheel well and from underneath I could not see or feel any cracks on the inside of the belt; so changing it is still a work in process. Maybe a P-32 is more difficult.
Though that I read that you just change the engine out before the belt needs to be changed out
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:18 AM   #20
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[QUOTE=mllk3rd;1387321]Though that I read that you just change the engine out before the belt needs to be changed out[/QUOTE

You must have read it before I decided to edit it.

Uh, I did have my engine changed and since they had to reinstall the old water pump I don't really know if they put the old belt on or a new one. You can only get so much for $14,000 .

I decided to edit all this out as I thought it was TMI
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:30 AM   #21
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[QUOTE=max49;1387327]
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Though that I read that you just change the engine out before the belt needs to be changed out[/QUOTE

You must have read it before I decided to edit it.

Uh, I did have my engine changed and since they had to reinstall the old water pump I don't really know if they put the old belt on or a new one. You can only get so much for $14,000 .

I decided to edit all this out as I thought it was TMI
Sorry, that one was hard to pass up. One would think that you would get a new belt in that 14k and maybe a Xmas card around this time of year.
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Old 12-02-2012, 08:53 AM   #22
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Mine does not look like any fun at all. I can see a about a foot of it from the wheel well and another foot from underneath, nothing I can reach as far as I've figured out yet. I have not figured out how to see enough to draw a diagram of it, much less change it.
The good part, I could read the GM #s and 6PK2610 from the wheel well and from underneath I could not see or feel any cracks on the inside of the belt; so changing it is still a work in process. Maybe a P-32 is more difficult.
My P32 couldn't be any easier and it all depends on the dog house configuration IMO. Here's the routing for any big block chevy, I think.
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Old 12-02-2012, 11:44 AM   #23
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Thanks for posting that diagram Tropical. It looks like mine but my belt is on the other side of the tensioner.

I got the doghouse off and it seems this is the way I have to do it, but it still does not look easy.
I'm trying to practice and learn in case I have to do this on the side of the road. I hope to learn this while I have the doghouse off because that in itself and getting it back on is not much fun in itself.
I have already ran into a problem and I don't want to break something if I'm doing it wrong.
There's a bolt in front of the tensioner. I got my 15MM socket and ratchet on it and I thought you just turned it to back off the spring tension. I did'nt try to be a gorilla but it does'nt seem to want to turn in either direction. Am I leaving a step out or am I doing something wrong?
I'd really appreciate some advice as soon as possible , I hope I don't have to put the doghouse back on when I have'nt learned any thing .
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:32 PM   #24
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Double and unedited post
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:37 PM   #25
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Thanks for posting that diagram Tropical. It looks like mine but my belt is on the other side of the tensioner.

I got the doghouse off and it seems this is the way I have to do it, but it still does not look easy.
I'm trying to practice and learn in case I have to do this on the side of the road. I hope to learn this while I have the doghouse off because that in itself and getting it back on is not much fun in itself.
I have already ran into a problem and I don't want to break something if I'm doing it wrong.
There's a bolt in front of the tensioner. I got my 15MM socket and ratchet on it and I thought you just turned it to back off the spring tension. I did'nt try to be a gorilla but it does'nt seem to want to turn in either direction. Am I leaving a step out or am I doing something wrong?
I'd really appreciate some advice as soon as possible , I hope I don't have to put the doghouse back on when I have'nt learned any thing .
The center of the tensioner is for a 3/8 ratchet drive (not the bolt that holds the ass'y on) and I use a short 3/4 piece of thin wall conduit for leverage, which provides more leeway than a smaller dia. pipe. Pulling on the spring loaded tensioner loosens the belt to where you can simply lift the belt out from under the idler pulley and lay it on top. Now you're good to go with removing the belt and no matter how it looks, there's no need to go over the fan blades with it. Obviously you need to reverse this operation for the new install.
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:02 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by tropical36 View Post
The center of the tensioner is for a 3/8 ratchet drive (not the bolt that holds the ass'y on) and I use a short 3/4 piece of thin wall conduit for leverage, which provides more leeway than a smaller dia. pipe. Pulling on the spring loaded tensioner loosens the belt to where you can simply lift the belt out from under the idler pulley and lay it on top. Now you're good to go with removing the belt and no matter how it looks, there's no need to go over the fan blades with it. Obviously you need to reverse this operation for the new install.
Thank You for this info.

It seems so simple but there was no way I saw that 3/8" square hole until you told me and I got a mirror out to look at it.
My belt looks good with no cracks at all that I can see, maybe they did change it when they swapped engines, but at least I feel I could change it on the side of the road if I had to now.

Thanks again and I'll put my dog house back on and feel that I at least learned something.
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