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Old 04-19-2013, 02:36 PM   #1
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1996 P30 Radiator help

I'm trying to drain the radiator in my 96 Itasca P30 and the drain cock only turns about a 1/4 turn and no fluid comes out. I'm used to the drain cock that is a tube you unscrew. This one is a solid thumb screw. Do I need to try and unscrew it more or what?
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:13 PM   #2
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I loosen the lower hose, empties very quickly.
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:17 PM   #3
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Are you turning the right way I believe they are backwards instead of righty tighty lefty loosey it's right opens. Just a possibility
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:27 PM   #4
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And sometimes you might need to easily poke in there with a piece of tie wire as the crude gathers there sometimes.
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:38 PM   #5
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I figured it out. I started to pull on the drain cock a little and it came out. That's all it does, 1/4 turn and then pull. It flowed pretty good but not much quantity came out. Maybe a couple gallons and I have the motor-aid rear heater too. I'm going to go back out and take off the lower hose and see if more will come out.

Hopefully I have enough length on the a/c hoses to get the condenser out of the way otherwise I'll have to un-hook it.

Thanks for the replies.
John
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:25 PM   #6
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I got it drained and all but there are 2 bolts that I can't even reach to remove the radiator. The radiator has a 2 piece mounting shell around it with 2 bolts on each side. The 2 on the drivers side I can't reach them. I might be able to get to them if I could get the wheel off but the lug nuts are on too tight.

I tried also to remove the fan shroud as I might be about to reach them that way but there is a big brace going from the top passenger side of the radiator down to the frame. Itssca when they built the motorhome welded a bracket to the frame and right mixer to that brace when you can't get to the mounting bolts to take the brace off. Without removing that brace, I can't get the shroud out of the way.

I had everything off to get the radiator out but couldn't remove it have because of those 2 bolts.
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:30 PM   #7
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On some chassis, turning the front wheels all the way left or right will give you some additional room for access to tight places.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:28 PM   #8
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I couldn't turn the wheels without having the engine run and I already had it drained. I just went ahead and put it back together for now. It was ether this weekend or nothing as my girls have soccer every weekend until Memorial Day. I'll probably just have to wait until after Labor Day to start it again. I know next time I'll have someone come and remove the wheels 1st to see if I can even get to those 2 bolts in that way.
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:52 AM   #9
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The drain cock should release what's in the radiator and the engine block fairly well, but if you've got a motor aid water heater setup and / or a rear heater taken off the coolant, you've got those looooong lines to clean out, too.

Try getting the rear of the coach up higher to drain everything back to the front.
There could be a drain/flush tee somewhere further back to help deal with the rear hose run -- but don't count on it.

Fully flushing and filling the system (and getting all the air back out...) takes patience.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:57 AM   #10
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Which way did you turn the radiator drain cock to drain the coolant ?
Thank you
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:50 PM   #11
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If I remember right, I turned it left but it only turned a little bit. Not like the old car radiators that the petcock turned clockwise and actually screwed in.
After I turned it counter-clockwise that little bit, I think I had to pull down on it. I know nothing came out right away and I didn't think I was turning it the correct way.
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcgribks View Post
I couldn't turn the wheels without having the engine run and I already had it drained. I just went ahead and put it back together for now. It was ether this weekend or nothing as my girls have soccer every weekend until Memorial Day. I'll probably just have to wait until after Labor Day to start it again. I know next time I'll have someone come and remove the wheels 1st to see if I can even get to those 2 bolts in that way.
You should be able to start it long enough to turn the wheels, regardless or extend the jacks if you have such and they should still turn. In addition, you may have to find a way to saw through the brackets and then use some stock for bolting them back again.
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