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Old 08-14-2017, 01:48 PM   #1
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2000 P32 Sticking Brake Caliper

I have a 2000 P32 that has a sticking front right caliper. I started off by replacing the pads. Took it for a 3 mile drive down the road at 50mph and stopped and smoke was coming from the front RH brake. The wheel simulator was so hot you couldn't hold your hand on it. The next day I jacked it up and the front wheel spun freely. So now I have it torn down to the spindle and am thinking of replacing the caliper, flex hose and bearings. The caliper is a Bendix 4152828. Rotor looks good. Brake fluid looks dark brown so I should probably replace it. Thinking about getting some speed bleeders too. Gonna repack the bearings with high temp grease. What else should I do to it while I have it stripped down to the spindle?

Thanks,
Jon
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Old 08-16-2017, 02:23 PM   #2
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This post outlines my experience/indications (on a 16,500lb P32 chassis):
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/02-p3...ml#post1690427

Notice my bendix P/N was also 4152828

Info that may help:
Brake P/Ns for my 16,500 lb P32:
1) Caliper - CAR18-8044 at $115 each
2) Brake Pad Set - CARGMD184F at $171 for a set of 2 each (so you need 2 - a front and back set)
3) Front Brake Rotor - CAR55029 at $98.50 each
4) Back Brake Rotor - CAR55031 at $81.50 each

Note: I did the online parts searches (AutoWarehouse etc) and just got confused. My 16,500 lb chassis uses the 'tow/wrecker truck brakes' - online parts only listed 15,000 lb non-tow truck brake parts. CARQUEST was great at figuring this out for me.
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:08 AM   #3
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You may not have to buy anything for the brakes.
Remove the bolt holding the caliper retainer in place on the spindle and slide the caliper off. Try pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper housing. If the pistons move freely the caliper and hose are probably OK.
Remove the pads from the spindle bracket. Did they come out easily or did you have to pry or force the pads out?
The design of the Bendix caliper and mounting is known for pads seizing in the brackets and the caliper seizing in the mount. Everything would need to be cleaned of any rust or dirt build up so it all moves and slides freely.
I use 3-M Roloc pads and a high speed die grinder to do this with but it can be done with a wire brush and fine sandpaper. It takes a little patience and elbow grease.
There is nothing to retract the pads from the rotors when the brakes are released except the seal on the caliper piston which is square cut and rolls just a tiny bit when the brakes are applied and released. Everything must be free to work properly.
After a thorough cleaning apply a light film of synthetic brake lubricant to all the mounting surfaces and where the pads rest against the spindle.
Up here where I live this is imperative to do on a yearly basis. A lot of sand and salt get thrown on our roads in the wintertime. Even in the summertime rain and mud are enemies of this design.
I don't use my MH in the wintertime but have been caught in the rain on occasion. I do this service on all 4 wheels semi annually as part of my regular maintenance. I run just under 1000 miles a year with my MH.
I have never been a huge fan of the Bendix design but it's out there and has to be dealt with. It has been popular on many 3/4 and 1 T. trucks in the past as well as heavier duty applications.
I am not saying the caliper or hose isn't the problem in this case but am relaying information from years of experience with these brakes in my repair shop.
Lynn
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:47 AM   #4
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my '01 p30 bendix brakes had NEVER been touched in 15 years!....when I bought it.....you should have seen the pads ...missing about 1/2 the material...pedal pressure was BOTH FEET!


the slides and everything were crusted rust, but they still worked......my experience is if the brake sticks its the caliper and the other side will stick SOON.....do both.


but it could be the slides but u wouldn't think so cause he just had it apart changing the pads.


also I used non metallic non carbon pads since I do 95% flat land driving and while they fade under REPEATED hard braking, they have high initial friction.
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:59 AM   #5
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I had an issue with brakes on an older Winnebago and thought it was the caliper -- turned out to be collapsed brake hoses not letting brakes release. mark
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Old 08-19-2017, 03:30 PM   #6
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The fronts on ours would stick from time to time, it would start pulling to the side that was sticking. Had to get a big hammer out to loosen if i was out in the middle of no where.

Was told by more than one technician, that moisture was permeating the phenolic (hope that's spelled right) caliper piston and that it would expand with heat and then stick. Mainly because the motorhome sat up so much of the time without being driven. That sounded right to me since ours sat sometimes months between trips, and that the brake would always release when it cooled.

But as LETM stated above, i also read that everything needed to be clean (dust and rust free), almost sterile. I made sure to clean/wire brush the slide surfaces and anything else that moved, then added a very light coat brake caliper grease to those surfaces when i installed the new calipers.

Knocking on wood now but i think we are going on two years without a sticking episode. I do make sure to start and drive at least once a month these days. Will probably pull the wheels when it gets cooler to make sure everything is still clean.

By the way, on our 15,000 lb chassis, the calipers are the same on each corner and are available at the local auto parts store.
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Old 08-20-2017, 03:58 AM   #7
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Thank you for the replies. I went to my local Advance Auto and bought a new caliper, brake hose and bearings. I tapped out the old bearings, packed the new ones and installed them, got the hub on but they sold me the hose for driver side when I needed the passenger side. New hose will be at the store for me to pick up tomorrow. Installing the new bearings is probably overkill, but I thought with how hot and how much smoke was rolling from the wheel that new bearings and grease would be necessary. I think the smoke and smell was from the burnt brake grease. The stuff was blue when I put it on the back side of the pads and it turned black after it got hot. Once I get the hose installed and take it for a test run I'll follow up with you guys.


Thanks again,
Jon
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Old 08-20-2017, 06:44 AM   #8
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Thanks for the update Jon.

Please post the P/Ns for the brake hoses (and any other P/Ns you found) - might help someone get the right part the 1st try.
Also, what is your chassis gross weight?
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Old 08-20-2017, 12:38 PM   #9
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You might want to consider replacing the caliper and hose on the drivers side too. You probably have antilock brakes on that coach, might save you a problem. Be very careful bleeding the brakes, you may have problems with the ABS unit if you go after it too quick. Step on the pedal real easy and don't push it all the way down. I used a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes when I worked on the brakes on my 98 Daybreak to keep from upsetting the ABS system.
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Old 08-20-2017, 11:04 PM   #10
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Likewise with MCJONES. We had a similar situation with a smoking brake set on our way home, and then when it quit finally released it was the two-footed pedal push to stop. The shop said it was collapsed hose(s) and degraded brake fluid reservoir seal, probably due to very old fluid that had been cooked a few times (it looked like came out of the crankcase). We bit the bullet and had all the brakelines, fluid, seals, calipers, pads, etc. replaced. We couldn't take a chance. We truly hope your issue is much, much simpler. Good luck
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Old 08-21-2017, 05:08 AM   #11
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every caliper failure [stuck] i ever had [2] the other side failed within months.

Now i'm a believer in 'change both sides'
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Old 08-21-2017, 06:24 AM   #12
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Phenolic and water

My experience with phenolic is that most types ARE water sensitive......only a few are not.
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Old 08-22-2017, 04:56 AM   #13
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Thanks for the input, you guys have convinced me to replace both front sides now. I don't want the driver side front to start dragging while on the road somewhere. What about the rears, anyone experience the rears getting stuck/dragging?
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Old 08-22-2017, 05:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonMarshall View Post
Thanks for the input, you guys have convinced me to replace both front sides now. I don't want the driver side front to start dragging while on the road somewhere. What about the rears, anyone experience the rears getting stuck/dragging?
Good move replacing both.

My problems with dragging brakes started with the right rear, then the left rear and eventually the front left. I replaced the front right before it gave me issues. I also replaced all the rubber hoses.
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