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Old 03-25-2009, 08:05 PM   #1
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2004 W22 Serpentine Belt tip and question

My neighbor recently had a drive (serpentine) belt shred on the I 24 upslope heading southbound in Tennessee toward the mountain ridge at Monteagle. This was not a good place to lose power steering and have the emergency booster motor kick in for braking. He was able to get to the side of the interstate, and the parking brake did hold. It took a number of hours for a local roadside tow and repair shop to get him off the mountain, find the right belt (first one turned out to be the 103" which was too short), and get it installed.

That made me decide to change mine out since our motorhomes are both on the W22 chassis and they are both about the same age. Oemys website
http://www.oemys-performance.com/ttindex.htm
gave me the info and the confidence to tackle the job. I was lucky in that the belt stopped just right, and I was able to read the W0000581 part number directly from it. I picked up a Dayco 5061080 from the local parts store ($32) and took a bunch of close-up pictures with an older digital camera that has pretty much become my "tool" camera. It gets stuck into places my head can't fit.

Per Oemys instructions, I pulled back the tensioner with a 3/8 inch socket wrench. I quickly figured out the spring tension on that little wrench gets hard on the finger muscles, so I added an 18 inch "jimmy bar" of schedule 40 pvc pipe to the wrench. I didn't need this for extra leverage, but it let me hook a medium sized carpenty bar clamp between it and the passenger side leaf spring. It held the tensioner at maximum "release" position with no extra hands required. Sort of an instant extra helper.

The old belt slipped off with ease, and I paid very careful attention to just how I threaded it out of the multiple pulleys. I put the new and much stiffer belt back in by reversing the steps.

Now the problem ... I could not get the belt over the tensioner pulley. The belt seemed to be a half inch short. This did not make much sense since I had matched the old to the new and they were an almost perfect match. The new belt appeared to be the same width and almost exactly the same length (maybe few millimeters shorter). However, I did notice that it was thicker, but I just figured the old belt had worn. I think being thicker caused the problem, though. Since both the inside and the outside of the belt run around various pulleys, a thicker belt probably equates to a shorter belt.

I tried everything including putting it in place on the tensioner pulley and then removing the doghouse to try to fit it over the top idler pulley. With the tensioner pulled back as far as it would go, this belt just would not fit!

I finally decided to release the tensioner and bypass it to just confirm that the belt would fit on all the pulleys. It did and it was loose. The problem was the tensioner pulley would just not pull back far enough to let the belt get into place.

The solution ... I loosened the center mounting bolt of the tensioner pulley several turns until the whole tensioner wobbled on its mount. I was now able to get the belt into place. I then tightened the mounting bolt back up, and finally I released the 3/8 inch wrench to let the spring push the tension pulley tight against the belt. It swung in about 3/4 inch, so I think there is enough play in the belt, although it is tighter than the original.

Now the question... When I loosened the tensioner mounting bolt, I used a standard 1/2 inch socket wrench with an appropriate metric socket ... forget which one. I was expecting to pull hard to break the bolt loose, but it turned out to be just "two fingers" tight. In other words, pulling on the wrench (no cheater bar) with just two fingers loosened the mounting bolt. How tight should I tighten it? I have a torque wrench, so I just need a number. Will making it too tight cause the pivot to bind? It sure seems like it should be tighter than "two fingers!" I did try to look up various combinations of W22, tensioner pully, torque, etc. but I have not tracked this one down.
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Old 03-25-2009, 09:28 PM   #2
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I wouldn't think the tensioner bolt any tighter than 25-30 ft lbs at most. When my belt broke, also 108", If found that if I fed it on all pulleys but the Alternator then released the tension, the belt slid right on so I did not have to undo the tensioner bolt. I make sure that I pack an extra "new" belt now rather than being stuck on the side of the interstate for 4 hours again. When they let go you will heat up in under 2 minutes so you need to get shut down quick.
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Old 03-26-2009, 06:41 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gorwig View Post
My neighbor recently had a drive (serpentine) belt shred on the I 24 upslope heading southbound in Tennessee toward the mountain ridge at Monteagle. This was not a good place to lose power steering and have the emergency booster motor kick in for braking. He was able to get to the side of the interstate, and the parking brake did hold. It took a number of hours for a local roadside tow and repair shop to get him off the mountain, find the right belt (first one turned out to be the 103" which was too short), and get it installed.

That made me decide to change mine out since our motorhomes are both on the W22 chassis and they are both about the same age. Oemys website
http://www.oemys-performance.com/ttindex.htm
gave me the info and the confidence to tackle the job. I was lucky in that the belt stopped just right, and I was able to read the W0000581 part number directly from it. I picked up a Dayco 5061080 from the local parts store ($32) and took a bunch of close-up pictures with an older digital camera that has pretty much become my "tool" camera. It gets stuck into places my head can't fit.

Per Oemys instructions, I pulled back the tensioner with a 3/8 inch socket wrench. I quickly figured out the spring tension on that little wrench gets hard on the finger muscles, so I added an 18 inch "jimmy bar" of schedule 40 pvc pipe to the wrench. I didn't need this for extra leverage, but it let me hook a medium sized carpenty bar clamp between it and the passenger side leaf spring. It held the tensioner at maximum "release" position with no extra hands required. Sort of an instant extra helper.

The old belt slipped off with ease, and I paid very careful attention to just how I threaded it out of the multiple pulleys. I put the new and much stiffer belt back in by reversing the steps.

Now the problem ... I could not get the belt over the tensioner pulley. The belt seemed to be a half inch short. This did not make much sense since I had matched the old to the new and they were an almost perfect match. The new belt appeared to be the same width and almost exactly the same length (maybe few millimeters shorter). However, I did notice that it was thicker, but I just figured the old belt had worn. I think being thicker caused the problem, though. Since both the inside and the outside of the belt run around various pulleys, a thicker belt probably equates to a shorter belt.

I tried everything including putting it in place on the tensioner pulley and then removing the doghouse to try to fit it over the top idler pulley. With the tensioner pulled back as far as it would go, this belt just would not fit!

I finally decided to release the tensioner and bypass it to just confirm that the belt would fit on all the pulleys. It did and it was loose. The problem was the tensioner pulley would just not pull back far enough to let the belt get into place.

The solution ... I loosened the center mounting bolt of the tensioner pulley several turns until the whole tensioner wobbled on its mount. I was now able to get the belt into place. I then tightened the mounting bolt back up, and finally I released the 3/8 inch wrench to let the spring push the tension pulley tight against the belt. It swung in about 3/4 inch, so I think there is enough play in the belt, although it is tighter than the original.

Now the question... When I loosened the tensioner mounting bolt, I used a standard 1/2 inch socket wrench with an appropriate metric socket ... forget which one. I was expecting to pull hard to break the bolt loose, but it turned out to be just "two fingers" tight. In other words, pulling on the wrench (no cheater bar) with just two fingers loosened the mounting bolt. How tight should I tighten it? I have a torque wrench, so I just need a number. Will making it too tight cause the pivot to bind? It sure seems like it should be tighter than "two fingers!" I did try to look up various combinations of W22, tensioner pully, torque, etc. but I have not tracked this one down.
the workhorse manual calls for 37 ft lbs torque on the belt idler tensioner bolt.
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Old 03-26-2009, 10:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAN L View Post
the workhorse manual calls for 37 ft lbs torque on the belt idler tensioner bolt.
-----------------------------------------

Thanks, DAN L! That's all I needed to know! Problem solved.
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Old 03-28-2009, 09:20 AM   #5
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Serpentine Belt

I have an 06 W 22 ! which serpentine belt does it take! Are they all the same for the 8.1
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Old 03-28-2009, 09:51 AM   #6
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Quote:
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I have an 06 W 22 ! which serpentine belt does it take! Are they all the same for the 8.1
----------------------------
My old belt had the Workhorse Part No. W0000581 stamped on it, and NAPA or other parts stores can match that up to several name brand belts. They all came out as 108 inch belts, such as the Dayco 5061080 that I chose.

However, there are reports that some W22 motorhomes use a 103 inch belt but I have not seen the actual Workhorse part number for that. It may be that the motorhome manufacturer repositioned an alternator or something and had to switch to a shorter belt.

The best approach, if you have the time, is to remove the old belt and try to find a part number on it. If you can't but the belt is still in good shape, take it in to a parts store and they can match it up the old fashioned way.
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Old 03-28-2009, 06:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noleakman View Post
I have an 06 W 22 ! which serpentine belt does it take! Are they all the same for the 8.1
You can probably read a number on the old belt either from the bottom (easiest) or from the top by removing the doghouse.
my dw turned the engine over with the starter until the number was at the bottom.
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Old 04-04-2009, 01:55 PM   #8
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Are their any suggested time-milage milestones for belt replacement to avoid a failure? I'm going on three years/41M miles in my 06 Suncruiser/8.1L?
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Old 04-04-2009, 02:08 PM   #9
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Are their any suggested time-mileage milestones for belt replacement to avoid a failure? I'm going on three years/41M miles in my 06 Suncruiser/8.1L?
Pubtym, Congratulations on having clocked up 41K miles on your 06 motorhome. You don't see this very often.

Now about the belt. The only thing I see in the Chassis Maintenance PDF that is pinned at the top of the forum is a replacement recommendation at 60,000 miles. The schedule directs that the belt be inspected "Pre-Travel or Fuel Fill."

Currently at 76K miles I have had three replacement belts however those replacements were unrelated to maintenance and were in support of on and off again after market air conditioning compressors.

If it will make you feel more confident, I would certainly not begrudge you the satisfaction of replacing your serpentine belt.
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Old 04-04-2009, 02:23 PM   #10
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Thanks Mike. I am more inclined to go preventive maintenance approach and change @ 60M or earlier...

I'll look up WH part # in 2006 Suncruiser MH Owner's manual.

See you at GNR.

Charlie
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Old 04-04-2009, 03:11 PM   #11
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Thanks Mike. I am more inclined to go preventive maintenance approach and change @ 60M or earlier...

I'll look up WH part # in 2006 Suncruiser MH Owner's manual.

See you at GNR.

Charlie
=====================

We are just back from a 360 mile trip with the new serpentine belt. I'm happy to say that it worked just fine ... as did the brakes and new Bridgestone tires.

It is a real pain to check out the serpentine belt. You can only see a bit of it at a time from under the coach or from on top through the doghouse. However, visual inspection will probably provide you with the best chance to catch a developing problem. My old belt (just 26,000 miles, but over 5 years old) showed wear on the outside of the belt, running lengthwise down the centerline. There were no cracks or obvious problems on the inside where the multiple groves are.

Mainly due to age I decided to change it and keep the old one as an emergency spare. I'm positive it is still good enough to get me home from a trip should the need arise. Also, since it is already stretched out it will be relatively easy to fit it into place should the need arise.
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Old 04-04-2009, 05:17 PM   #12
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At a recently attended Workhorse rally in Bakersfield, Redlands Truck and RV were there and they were suggesting that the belt AND the tensioner be replaced as a pair and at about the 30,000 mile interval.

I have 33,000
Joe
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Old 04-04-2009, 07:17 PM   #13
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At a recently attended Workhorse rally in Bakersfield, Redlands Truck and RV were there and they were suggesting that the belt AND the tensioner be replaced as a pair and at about the 30,000 mile interval.
Jwatkins, I have had a number of belts - still running the same tensioner however I would not disagree!
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Old 04-04-2009, 08:15 PM   #14
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OK....I'll find the WH Part # for the new belt...but folks...where do I look for the tensioner? Is it a GMC part?
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