Community Forums

DAN L · 04-26-2009, 07:10 PM

TOM:
while i was doing research prior to purchasing the SCII i discovered that little tidbit of info in the workhorse chassis manual about the dash temperature gauge.
i suspect the oil pressure gauge is similar. i seem to remember that i read somewhere that the 8.1 has a "high volume, low pressure system".
my SCII still will not read engine oil pressure.
OEMY, have you made any headway on an xgauge parameter for my oil pressure?

DriVer · 04-26-2009, 08:00 PM

DAN L, My 03 IP does have a direct readout of the oil pressure. It has a dedicated mode to do this. Now that you mention it, I'm not sure if I get an oil pressure read from my SGII.

I don't believe that my 2001 analog guages package had a direct read oil pressure gauge. CRS I guess.

born2camp · 04-26-2009, 09:29 PM

Rubber air dam has been used on MH's for pretty much the last 30 years. If you know of ANY gauge that is dead on accurate either mechanical or electrical, buy it and put it on to give you piece of mind. The air dam kit from WH would be extremely easy to duplicate. I don't need it but my neighbor has one on his and it could be replicated for less than $100 I am sure even less if you went cheap materials on it. What would you complain to workhorse about? Your motorhome is running hot?, or your gauges are not dead on accurate? It's all personal preference but that rubber air dam is there for a reason. I would fabricate the air dam kit if I was having any problems on burning wires etc.

Sammie · 04-26-2009, 10:24 PM

One way to cure all your problems with burned wires and overheating is to install a water spray system on the front of your radiator. You can use the house water pump for the supply or install a second smaller water pump just to run the spray system. I installed one on my 1990 Chevy Pace Arrow several years back and used it mainly when pulling long uphill grades in hot weather. It worked so good that the fan rarely need to engage which was an added plus because when the fan isn't running you have more horsepower to pull the hill. If you need details on the system I installed, let me know.

Sammie

hamguy · 04-27-2009, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriVer

hamguy, Well taking a chance like that on such an expensive engine for the lack of a less than $100.00 part is almost like never getting hit by lightning. Ahhh .. check that - we did get hit by lightning.

If there is no temperature rise when driving 6 mile long 6 degree grades, in 90 degree weather at 5000' ASL, what should I look for?

Rocket Heart · 04-27-2009, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by born2camp

Rubber air dam has been used on MH's for pretty much the last 30 years. If you know of ANY gauge that is dead on accurate either mechanical or electrical, buy it and put it on to give you piece of mind. The air dam kit from WH would be extremely easy to duplicate. I don't need it but my neighbor has one on his and it could be replicated for less than $100 I am sure even less if you went cheap materials on it. What would you complain to workhorse about? Your motorhome is running hot?, or your gauges are not dead on accurate? It's all personal preference but that rubber air dam is there for a reason. I would fabricate the air dam kit if I was having any problems on burning wires etc.

What do you think about a bigger radiator - that would solve the problem eh? Wouldn't need 30 years of a patch that get's you by instead of solving the problem. My 99 LaPalma did not have this shroud - but it was on a Ford chassis - so maybe Ford knows the answer??

DriVer · 04-27-2009, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hamguy

If there is no temperature rise when driving 6 mile long 6 degree grades, in 90 degree weather at 5000' ASL, what should I look for?

You might want to borrow a Scan Gauge II and observe the temperature rise for yourself but the temps will be observed as rising. That said, I can also observe the SGII's "FW°T" parameter decrease as I'm climbing the grade. Regardless I know that the temperature moves one way and then another.

The fabric is engineered for the application and I recommend that you consider installing one. The new fabric is much thicker and it will not degrade in time.

max49 · 04-27-2009, 09:23 PM

It only makes sense that that the engine temperature will go up when climbing long hills. On my old CL C, I used to watch the temp. gauge rise, not to a dangerous point but definitly rise, then I'd watch it fall back to the middle of the dial , or lower when I went downhill.
Does any one know why, my temp gauge on my WH MH never moves beyond 'right in the middle' ? Is this not a real gauge? Is it like an 'idiot light' that is either off or on? It does start at the cold position and within 15 minutes it in the middle.

Brazel's RV Performance · 04-28-2009, 12:44 AM

Don't feel too bad, my Toyota Tacoma is the same way with the temp. gauge...in fact I can watch a 21* temperature differential on my SGII, and the needle on my analog gauage doesn't move one bit...it's not just a Workhorse thing. On the other hand, when I developed a leak in the radiator from a stick poking through it, the needle did rise above half and definitely let me knew there was a problem, as I suspect the WH gauge would do as well!

texans · 04-28-2009, 07:34 AM

A year or so ago our rubber dam was starting to tear at many of its stress points so got out the duct tape. Taped those points and all across the top, so far it's holding good.

Richard

DriVer · 04-28-2009, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by texans

... so got out the duct tape.

Richard. I actually went as far are removing the screws and I fitted fender washers on the thin fabric sheet and put the screw back. That seemed to work for a while however the "fix" is getting the thicker fabric.

I recently purchased a roll of Gorilla Glue tape .... all I can say is ...

Rocket Heart · 04-28-2009, 09:05 AM

Posted this by itself on the forum - thought I should post here to let those interested know my results.

As some of you re-call I was going to attempt to get in touch with Workhorse regarding the air dam in their gas coaches. I am very pleased to say that I recieved a call this evening (Monday) from the District Service Manager from Workhorse.

He was very polite and understanding of my questions as to why the need for air dam - it is put there by design by Workhorse to keep the cool air up front and thus keeping the engine cooler by not letting the air escape the confines of the main cooling compartment.

He also informed me that they do not install the vent kit the first time the rear plugs fail. Normally this happens one time and after being replaced there usually isn't a second episode. He also assured me that should there be a second incident they will take of it and install the vent kit.

At this point I am satisfied that they are doing their best to take care of the problem

texans · 04-28-2009, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriVer

Richard. I actually went as far are removing the screws and I fitted fender washers on the thin fabric sheet and put the screw back. That seemed to work for a while however the "fix" is getting the thicker fabric.

I recently purchased a roll of Gorilla Glue tape .... all I can say is ...

DriVer, if Gorilla is better than duct, I've got to try that.

Richard

born2camp · 04-28-2009, 03:18 PM

The "mister" or "spray" idea works as I had it on an 84 Pace Arrow and climbing Baker grade or Eisenhower I would turn it on and my temp gauge stayed very close to normal vs without it climbing high. What I hated about it was the leftover "chalk" or white powerdery residue that would coat the front of the radiator. I guess you could run softwater through it from a seperate tank/pump. Max, my BIL WH18 gauge does same as yours but mine is real close to my SGII reading, so I am not sure if his is the gauge or sender, but overall my gauges match real close to my SGII display.