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Old 05-06-2015, 05:54 AM   #15
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Pull if off the coil first, then rotate the boot until it is free and moves on the plug. Then pull on the boot while twisting. Mine were ten years old and using this method I got them off pretty easily.
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:03 PM   #16
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I just had the plugs and wires changed by a mechanic. He crawled in under the front after I turned the wheels all the way to one side. I offered a spark plug boot puller but he simply removed the wires an plugs without problem after a 10 year stay. New magnum wires and plugs removed and replaced in 35 minutes. Including re-using the heat shields.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:19 AM   #17
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Update. Got all the plugs and wires changed out over the weekend. Tried all the above mentioned ways of removing the boots. Finally, I just got an old boot puller, two handed grip, twisted the boots and REALLY pulled. Boots came off fine except two which left the contactor from the boot still on the plug. I read a post by OEMY that said he had only broken two wires ever...well, I equaled that on my first go. Wires looked pretty good still and ohm'd out at about 550 so no real problems there. Heat shields looked fine except for #5 which show some heat damage, #7 was fine...go figure. The plugs came out with no problem but I did soak them in PB Blaster. Put a set of Bosch Platinum Plus 2 spark plugs on and torqued them to 21lbs. The plugs were Densco with a 100K change period. Don't do that, these plugs were shot with about 25k on them. Thanks for all the help and advise. I love these forums.
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:38 AM   #18
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I looked at my plug wires. They are probably about 10 years old, and they look fine.

Should I replace them anyway?
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Old 05-19-2015, 02:24 PM   #19
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Charliem.... It's usually 2 per each set I change. lol
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
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I looked at my plug wires. They are probably about 10 years old, and they look fine.

Should I replace them anyway?
I replaced my wires with Magnums at 18K miles. They old wires all looked great when I pulled them off. No burt wires/boots. I also replaced the plugs for no other reason than I had everything apart.

The motorhome now runs smoother and has noticeably more power. So I obviously had some hidden issues I didn't know about.
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Old 05-19-2015, 09:37 PM   #21
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Texas Tom, if you think you need to then do it or it will pester you till you do. The only issue is that when I was up in the wheel well I saw more stuff to "take a look at". Been doing this since I was 16 so what the heck...fodder for another post.
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:54 PM   #22
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Texas Tom, if you think you need to then do it or it will pester you till you do. The only issue is that when I was up in the wheel well I saw more stuff to "take a look at". Been doing this since I was 16 so what the heck...fodder for another post.

You were so right. So I replaced them tonight along with new plug wires. I just put on a new set of stock wires, not the good ones though. The old plugs for the most part looked okay, but there were a couple that were questionable. Now I'm anxious to see how it drives.
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Old 10-09-2015, 07:23 AM   #23
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I think I learned my lesson. Purchased stock plug wires and the coach drives like crap. Turns out there are a couple that won't stay connected to the plug. They come off once the engine heats up. So needless to say, driving on less than 8 cylinders is not a performance dream. So ordered the Taylor Extremes.
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Old 10-09-2015, 07:34 PM   #24
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Did you buy stock AC Delco or after market stock wires, like standard, or pro tech, or some generic Auto zone wires?

I have had good luck with stock 8mm AC Delco wires. They don't fall off, mine haven't burned up, and I haven't felt a miss.
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Old 10-10-2015, 04:52 AM   #25
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I had mine replaced with Magnum wires, iridium plugs and UltraPower ECM update. Really made a big difference in performance, but not so much in fuel economy. I am very happy with the upgrades including Koni shocks and put that on the money well spent list.
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Old 10-10-2015, 06:54 AM   #26
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I replaced my plugs and wires at 29,500 miles this summer. Nothing wrong but after 13 years I thought it may be time. My MH sat in storage in a barn all it's life when not being used which wasn't really much. I know the owner started it monthly and let it run for a while. The plugs looked clean and new but I changed them anyway.
I used OEM AC plugs 41-893 and lifetime warranty Belden wires #700261. The plugs may have a different number from the original but they are updated and the numbers have changed along the way. My 8.1 is a 2002 so you should carefully check for your particular year and application. I always use a liberal amount of dielectric silicone grease on both the plug boots and the coil boots.
Wires can deteriorate with age. Although they may look fine the carbon string inside the insulation can break down with age, heat and vibration. Besides that just the jostling around pulling them off to change plugs can crack the carbon imbedded string. The outside insulation can also develop fine cracks you can't even see with the naked eye. If you have ever looked under the hood of a car with faulty wires when the motor is running after dark and seen the glow from the plug wires you would know what I mean.
The wires were just over $60 for the set and the plugs just under $6 each.
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Old 10-10-2015, 09:28 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgscott4 View Post
Did you buy stock AC Delco or after market stock wires, like standard, or pro tech, or some generic Auto zone wires?

I have had good luck with stock 8mm AC Delco wires. They don't fall off, mine haven't burned up, and I haven't felt a miss.

Generic
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Old 10-12-2015, 06:27 AM   #28
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Hey Guys/Gals--

One point of interest--

When you turn the steering wheel fully in one direction to gain access to the wires and plugs, make sure you back off the steering wheel slightly before you turn the ignition switch off- .
Recently (this September) a fellow, and now an RV'n buddie, bought a used '04, 37' Newmar Mountain Aire and had to change the plugs and wires while on the road because of misfiring and backfiring. When he called me-- and I told him how to get to the wires and plugs, by turning the wheel fully, I forgot to tell him what happened to me years ago- the steering wheel locked up tight. When the job was complete he could not "unlock" the steering wheel.
I then advised him to put the jacks down, jack up the front of the MH, and try unlocking the steering wheel-- It worked-

We all go through a learning curve with these things--

And ooh- here is a link to the type of spark plug wire removal tool mentioned above--

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Taylor-C...a6014e&vxp=mtr
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