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10-22-2007, 09:55 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Zigzag, OR
Posts: 1,063
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This is my first post, so hope you can all bear with me... Bought a new '07 Sunrise on the W22 and have burned out two plug wires in the first 1500 miles. Service guys say this is a well-known issue, and I have read some of the existing iRV2 posts about heat sink, lack of ventilation due to poor grill designs, hotter plugs and wires, smaller gap and so on, but the problem seems to persist. And I've been told the WH retro duct kit doesn't work... After looking at the engine compartment to figure out a way to increase airflow, I'm now contemplating cutting out all or part of the rubber skirt (wall?) above the heat exchangers (which the workhorse manual claims is designed to more efficiently channel airflow through the exchangers by closing off airflow above the engine) to open it up and allow more air to flow across the top of the engine compartment. Any experience or comments to share? Thanks!
__________________
'07 Itasca 35L/W22 FULL-TIMING
1000 Trails - VFW - 5 Yrs Army
"NOT ALL WHO WANDER ARE LOST"
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10-22-2007, 09:55 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Zigzag, OR
Posts: 1,063
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This is my first post, so hope you can all bear with me... Bought a new '07 Sunrise on the W22 and have burned out two plug wires in the first 1500 miles. Service guys say this is a well-known issue, and I have read some of the existing iRV2 posts about heat sink, lack of ventilation due to poor grill designs, hotter plugs and wires, smaller gap and so on, but the problem seems to persist. And I've been told the WH retro duct kit doesn't work... After looking at the engine compartment to figure out a way to increase airflow, I'm now contemplating cutting out all or part of the rubber skirt (wall?) above the heat exchangers (which the workhorse manual claims is designed to more efficiently channel airflow through the exchangers by closing off airflow above the engine) to open it up and allow more air to flow across the top of the engine compartment. Any experience or comments to share? Thanks!
__________________
'07 Itasca 35L/W22 FULL-TIMING
1000 Trails - VFW - 5 Yrs Army
"NOT ALL WHO WANDER ARE LOST"
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10-22-2007, 10:22 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,566
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by steelhead_bluesman:
And I've been told the WH retro duct kit doesn't work...
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I'm not sure I've ever heard this, as this is a proven fix.
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10-22-2007, 10:41 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,122
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by steelhead_bluesman:
This is my first post, so hope you can all bear with me... Bought a new '07 Sunrise on the W22 and have burned out two plug wires in the first 1500 miles. Service guys say this is a well-known issue, and I have read some of the existing iRV2 posts about heat sink, lack of ventilation due to poor grill designs, hotter plugs and wires, smaller gap and so on, but the problem seems to persist. And I've been told the WH retro duct kit doesn't work... After looking at the engine compartment to figure out a way to increase airflow, I'm now contemplating cutting out all or part of the rubber skirt (wall?) above the heat exchangers (which the workhorse manual claims is designed to more efficiently channel airflow through the exchangers by closing off airflow above the engine) to open it up and allow more air to flow across the top of the engine compartment. Any experience or comments to share? Thanks! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Have you been to your local authorized Workhorse Center with this problem?
Hold all cutting!!!!!!!!!!
__________________
Pubtym, 20th SOS "Green Hornet" , Viet Nam 68-69,
2015 Thor A.C.E 29.3
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10-22-2007, 10:43 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Zigzag, OR
Posts: 1,063
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Thanks for the quick reply FrontRangeRVer. Not sure which item you are referring to. If it is the WH duct kit, the only info I have gotten is a comment from the service manager at my nearest WH dealer who says he has personal knowledge of two installations that didn't eliminate the issue. Don't know how reliable that report is, of course... If you personally know of this kit doing the job, I would like to give it a try. Please let me know if this is the best route in your experience.
__________________
'07 Itasca 35L/W22 FULL-TIMING
1000 Trails - VFW - 5 Yrs Army
"NOT ALL WHO WANDER ARE LOST"
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10-22-2007, 10:50 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Zigzag, OR
Posts: 1,063
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Thanks Pubtym, yes I've been to a local WH service center, where they have changed out both burned wires, and each time they have replaced it with a longer wire, hoping to loop farther out and gain more distance from the exhaust manifolds. They said the duct kit doesn't work, but seem to be at a loss for any real solution, saying that WH is aware of and working on this problem.
__________________
'07 Itasca 35L/W22 FULL-TIMING
1000 Trails - VFW - 5 Yrs Army
"NOT ALL WHO WANDER ARE LOST"
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10-22-2007, 11:00 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 4,501
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First let me welcome you to IRV2.
Next you might update your profile to add some rig info.
A longer wire will not fix the problem... as the wire burns just inside the boot. The vent kit if properly installed will cool the back 2 cylinders on each bank and has fixed the problem in most cases.
__________________
Dale
AKA - Oemy
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10-22-2007, 12:20 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 328
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I thought and installed my kit on the third cylinder on each side. The hose according to WCC is to be located so air flow is directed onto the plug at a 90 deg to the head.
__________________
2005 30' Rexhall Vision, W-22 chassis, 19.5 tires, 208'' factory WB, 6000 CCC
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10-22-2007, 01:04 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner Coastal Campers
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Monterey, Tn
Posts: 1,089
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My two cents......The fourth plug back on the drivers side burned twice on my W20 Allegro. My fix two years ago was to install the kit and purchase high quality Taylor wires with boot sleeves. It was not cheap, but has worked. The vent kit, as others have said, must be directed at the plug at a 90 degree. Also, you should not cut the air dam. Air going over the top of the engine does not really help ventilation at the plugs. Later model Tiffin motorhomes have more grill openings than my 04 model, so airflow was a big problem. Your problem can be fixed.
Bob
__________________
2012 Tiffin Allegro 34 TGA
Ford V-10 22000 lb chassis
Brake Buddy Advantage,
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10-22-2007, 08:05 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Zigzag, OR
Posts: 1,063
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To OEMTECH: Thanks for the welcome. I would love to add some rig info, as I plan to be a part of this online community, but I can't find a pathway on the site... I've gone to the personal page and updated, but there is nowhere to put additional info. And what I've put doesn't show up. As I said earlier today with my first post, I am new to this... Any advice?
__________________
'07 Itasca 35L/W22 FULL-TIMING
1000 Trails - VFW - 5 Yrs Army
"NOT ALL WHO WANDER ARE LOST"
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10-23-2007, 03:08 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Full-timers - Home is where we park it.
Posts: 4,722
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by steelhead_bluesman:
To OEMTECH: Thanks for the welcome. I would love to add some rig info, as I plan to be a part of this online community, but I can't find a pathway on the site... I've gone to the personal page and updated, but there is nowhere to put additional info. And what I've put doesn't show up. As I said earlier today with my first post, I am new to this... Any advice? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Log in and click the "GO" button at the top of the page and click "Personal Zone" then "Profile." Then click "View/Edit Complete Profile" at the top right of that page. If you scroll about halfway down this page, you will come to a box called Signature. That's where you put any personal information you want to automatically show up on all your posts.
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10-23-2007, 05:08 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Ventura, Ca.
Posts: 333
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Let me add my welcome also. I notice you are from Portland. You are close enough to make the trip up I-5 to Centralia and visit one of the sponsors. Brazel's is a Workhorse service center as well a performance center. While traveling north to Alaska this summer, they diagnosed the same problem with mine, installed the kit and had me on the road the next day. Great people, knowledgable, and really know how to work with Workhorse.
__________________
2019 Winnebago Vista LX 30T, Honda CRV toad, best Labrador Retriever Charlie Brown .
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10-23-2007, 08:32 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Zigzag, OR
Posts: 1,063
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Thanks PAZ, my info should show up with this post. Appreciate it!
__________________
'07 Itasca 35L/W22 FULL-TIMING
1000 Trails - VFW - 5 Yrs Army
"NOT ALL WHO WANDER ARE LOST"
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10-23-2007, 01:42 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Rexhall Owners Group
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Everywhere,USA
Posts: 1,519
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by steelhead_bluesman:
If you personally know of this kit doing the job, I would like to give it a try. Please let me know if this is the best route in your experience. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>It has worked for me. After the "correct"¯ installation, I have climbed 6% grades in 110 degree heat and no more burnt wires. As stated above, make sure it is pointed directly at the suspect plug.
__________________
Full-Timers
in a
2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W22 Workhorse
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