8.1L and using an oil extractor...

[Richard 34A]

Oil changes for my 2001 M-BE320 are now $152, including filter. I would like to start doing my own oil changes using an oil extractor. There are two types, one you pump up the pressure by hand and one that uses air pressure from an air compressor. So that got me to thinking, if I buy a good unit that uses an air compressor, would that work on the 8.1L to simplify oil changes?

Two that I found are the Harbor Freight 6-1/4 Gallon Oil Extractor and Northern Tool Mityvac Pneumatic Fluid Evacuator "” 8.8 Liter. Does anyone here remove their oil using this method? I would still have to replace the filter from underneath the MH, of course, but looking to make the process a little cleaner and justify one of these units by being able to use it on two vehicles.

Any imput would be appreciated...

[Richard 34A]

Oil changes for my 2001 M-BE320 are now $152, including filter. I would like to start doing my own oil changes using an oil extractor. There are two types, one you pump up the pressure by hand and one that uses air pressure from an air compressor. So that got me to thinking, if I buy a good unit that uses an air compressor, would that work on the 8.1L to simplify oil changes?

Two that I found are the Harbor Freight 6-1/4 Gallon Oil Extractor and Northern Tool Mityvac Pneumatic Fluid Evacuator "” 8.8 Liter. Does anyone here remove their oil using this method? I would still have to replace the filter from underneath the MH, of course, but looking to make the process a little cleaner and justify one of these units by being able to use it on two vehicles.

Any imput would be appreciated...

[oemtech]

I use a $5 drain pan from Wal Mart and another plastic Wal Mart bag to hold the filter with I unscrew it. If I am careful I might get a bit of oil On may hand when I take the plug out. I drian the oil and filter into a 5 gal container and when it keeps full I take it to Wal Mart and dump it.

Toatl cost for 7 qts of Penz Syn and a 2 qt AC-Delco filter $50.

[Steve&Dora]

Seems like a pricey way to drain your oil, if you had a fleet of vehicles to maintain I could see it. I'll stick with a drain pan myself.

[DonavonP]

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

[Rock-Rocker]

Sounds a bit pricey for me too. I bought a Fumoto Drain Oil Drain Valve (ordered on-line for about $24.00), a 12 quart oil drain pan/tank (can't remember the price from walley world), a oil filter wrench from ww, a box of disposable nitrile gloves (from Harbor Freight), and an old cardboard box to lay on and absorb any oil splashed while draining. After the inital cost of the tank, gloves, valve (maybe say less than $50.00) I just have to buy the oil and filter (synthetic oil and filter don't cost more than $40.00 per oil change). Doing it myself gives me the piece of mind that it was done right. I have a drip pan/container that caps and seals and I can dispose of the oil anythime for free when I pass by a recycle center, Kragen Auto Parts, or various service stations. Oh, disposable shop towels come in handy too. HTH

[rogueii]

I use the Fumoto drain valve in the RV and switched the one I had in the 2002 Honda Accord to the 2006 Honda CRV. I carry a 2.5 gallon gas can and just slip a hose on the valve and drain into the can. No Spills or drips. I let it cool down and then wrap papper towels around the filter and put a plastic bag over and remove the filter to change. I have use thes valves for 4 years with no problems. Oil changes are easy.

[Rocky 2]

Our city has a recycling plan which includes giving 2 gallon drain containers, zip lock bags designed for filters, and a drain gutter for the "empty" oil bottles to collect the usable oil. Free was a great price.

[j griff]

Do you recall the model number of the Fumoto drain valve? Thanks

[TOMF1936]

griff
The part # for the 8.1L engine is F-107 for the plain valve or F-107N for the valve with the nipple for attaching a drain hose to.

Their ph# is 866-822-5689

Tom

[Richard 34A]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Steve&Dora:
Seems like a pricey way to drain your oil, if you had a fleet of vehicles to maintain I could see it. I'll stick with a drain pan myself. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

True, it is a pricey way to change the oil on a motorhome, since I have to get underneath it anyway to replace the oil filter. But the Mercedes oil filter is on top of the engine, immeditaley under the hood; I don't need to get underneath the vehicle to drain the oil or replace the filter, so the reason I posted the question was to see if anyone drained their oil this way on their MH, but based on the replies, it doesn't look like it. The main reason for me getting an oil extractor/evacuator isn't for the MH; using the hydraulic jacks I can sit up underneath it. But it isn't pretty sliding under a car with a H&R lowering kit. In fact, I can't, though I could have in my highschool days!

I bought the Harbor Freight model this evening based on the vehicle oil changes; I change the oil and filter every 750 miles, so at $152 per oil change, I can recoup the cost quickly. I probably will try it out on the MH just for fun.

Thanks to everyone for the replies...

[speed racer]

Sounds to me like you have a lot of disposable income. The normal heavy duty oil change interval is 3000 miles and the reson they put the drain plug on the bottm of the pan is to let the sluge and moisture out when you change your oil.

[Richard 34A]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by speed racer:
'...the reason they put the drain plug on the bottm of the pan is to let the sluge and moisture out when you change your oil. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I'm not that mechanically inclined, so I'll take your word for it, though I would have thought that the plug was on the bottom of the drain plug due to 'gravity', which is what allows the oil to empty out of the pan.

As far as sludge, since I have always used a quality oil and had it changed every 3,000 miles or less, can't say that I've ever seen 'sludge' come out of the pan and any moisture that's in the oil comes out, whether you drain it or evacuate it. Any moisture that would be on the sides of the pan isn't coming out using either method. It can't be too bad of a process using an extractor/evacuator, since it's a common practice on Mercedes, Porsche and BMW. I even saw it used at Maybach, which is a $345k vehicle...

Using an extractor was just a thought, and the primary reason wasn't for the MH, but thanks for the reply...

[max49]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Richard 34A:
I change the oil and filter every 750 miles, so at $152 per oil change, I can recoup the cost quickly. I probably will try it out on the MH just for fun.

Thanks to everyone for the replies... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Gosh Richard, if you change your oil & filter every 750 miles, you could probably donate it to someone and they could use it for another 3000 miles or so. @ 750 miles , it should still be like new oil.
I have to use an oil pump, extractor on my boat engine as there is no drain plug.
On my MH , I need a pump to put tranny fluid in because there no room to tip a qt bottle up to fill it. Almost need it for the engine oil too.