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Old 10-02-2008, 04:44 PM   #1
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About 2 months ago, my ABS light came on and and stays on. The dealer replaced my drivers and passenger side calipers and sensors. My rear sensors have been cleaned and lubed. I checked all fuses labled ABS.
I have checked brake lights. I have read everything on this forum regarding ABS failures. The dealer cannot get an error code on their scanner. I made a short drive and applied the brakes a lot. I then checked the calipers for overheating and they were not even warm to the touch. A couple of weeks ago I was on a short trip on a very hilly and curvy road downshifted and applied brakes as needed. The brakes started to feel kind of mushy and went farther to floor before stopping as when overheated. They feel fine now. The ABS light was on prior to the trip. Monday I am taking my motorhome to the dealer to have the brakes flushed and brake fluid replaced. But I do not think this will solve my ABS light problem.
The dealer is charging $280 to perform this brake system flush. Is this about the right price. It seems kind of pricy. Any ideas on the ABS light problem? My motorhome is a 2004 Scottsdale with a WH chassis.
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Old 10-02-2008, 04:44 PM   #2
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About 2 months ago, my ABS light came on and and stays on. The dealer replaced my drivers and passenger side calipers and sensors. My rear sensors have been cleaned and lubed. I checked all fuses labled ABS.
I have checked brake lights. I have read everything on this forum regarding ABS failures. The dealer cannot get an error code on their scanner. I made a short drive and applied the brakes a lot. I then checked the calipers for overheating and they were not even warm to the touch. A couple of weeks ago I was on a short trip on a very hilly and curvy road downshifted and applied brakes as needed. The brakes started to feel kind of mushy and went farther to floor before stopping as when overheated. They feel fine now. The ABS light was on prior to the trip. Monday I am taking my motorhome to the dealer to have the brakes flushed and brake fluid replaced. But I do not think this will solve my ABS light problem.
The dealer is charging $280 to perform this brake system flush. Is this about the right price. It seems kind of pricy. Any ideas on the ABS light problem? My motorhome is a 2004 Scottsdale with a WH chassis.
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Old 10-02-2008, 05:18 PM   #3
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I had the same problem. The local WH service center (under direction of the WH rep) pulled the rear ABS sensors and swapped them from side to side.

1200 miles later I still have no light.

Go figure.

I think $280 is at LEAST $100 too much!

It shouldn't take more than an hour and no more that $20 in fluid.
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Old 10-02-2008, 05:26 PM   #4
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I believe that adjusting and ruling out the ABS sensors themselves will resolve the problem that you are having with the lamp being lit.
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Old 10-02-2008, 06:23 PM   #5
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Thanks, Rottenralph, I will try to swap the rear sensors. Driver, I am not sure what you mean by adjusting the sensors. There is no ajustment that I am aware of. Do you mean by working them back forth. Could the sleeve that the sensor fits could be bad? Is there a way to insure that the sensors are working other than a scanner? Someone that posted on this forum mentioned using an ohmmeter? Can an ommeter be used to check the sensor?
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Old 10-02-2008, 06:43 PM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TXredfish:
Thanks, Rottenralph, I will try to swap the rear sensors. Driver, I am not sure what you mean by adjusting the sensors. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>TXredfish, I would not want to suggest that there is an adjustable measure that needs to be achieved. What I am suggesting is a positional adjustment. As you suggested a twist and a shove in the ABS sensor socket could at times make a difference. Ruling out positioning and swapping sensors, replacing the sensor would most likely resolve a lamp lit problem.

My last ABS sensor maintenance session saw where I replaced all 4 sensors. The ABS lamp is out and the system is on-line and working.

You might pose the question to oemtech regarding ohm meter metering of the sensor and the expected values.
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Old 10-02-2008, 07:05 PM   #7
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I had the same problem on 2004 beaver santeam after 6 month 5or 6 trip to the shop i went to rv Renevator in mesa they said it must be a losse sencor so they put a sliver of wood to make it solid problem solve for .It has been 3 years
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Old 10-03-2008, 02:09 AM   #8
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Lacking a tech2 programed with ABS codes, a good OHM meter will test the sensors. They should read 1225 or close to it. Three of mine read 1179/1182 and one read 37.5. I ordered a new sensor and will use it in that position and move the coach at least 1/4 mile above 4 mph and the light should reprogram itself. Here's hoping.

The sensor has to be unplugged from the wire and removed from the wheel before reading. Both probes will not go in the connection so I used one and used a gym clip for the other.

Good luck
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:05 AM   #9
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$280 is bit stiff considering all you need to need to do is pull the sensor out, clean it, lube it and reinstall it. There is a ABS R&R on my web site.

If you need replacement sensor call Glen Norman at OEM-Engineering Toll Free 877-549-9696. Cost is about $65 per.
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:30 AM   #10
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I had a similar problem with the ABS light. I followed Oemtech's advice. I removed, cleaned, reinstalled the sensors seating them properly. ABS lights now working properly. Smart man that Oemtech
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Old 10-03-2008, 06:46 AM   #11
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I had a similar problem. It was not the sensors themselves, but I believe the shop called them exciter rings, what triggers the sensors. I made 5 trips before it was corrected.

WH blamed it on road salt, and I said so what - it is not my fault that there is salt on the road. Lot of back & forth discussions, and it ended up cleaning the back breaks and replacing rotars in front.

As long as the breaks were apart, I paid for pads, which in itself was NOT inexpensive - that was 8 months and 4K miles ago, and (knock on wood) have not had the problem again.

Note, there is a small sensor sticking straight out (point forward) of the break fluid (poly) tank. This broke off, and it was $100 to replace it. Just don't bump them. They are probably PVC (maybe nylon) but now that I see them (there are two) if you hit them, they will probably snap off.
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Old 10-03-2008, 08:18 AM   #12
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The ABS computer may be able to tell you what it thinks the problem is.. Problem is it is not always precise

Example. A "Bad Sensor" may be a perfectly good sensor with a bad wire leading to it or a plug that is not properly plugged.

The sensors are hall-effect devices. Though it IS possible for one to be damaged, Short of damage there is next to no way on earth for a sensor to fail It operates on laws of physics and line 300,000 MPS, That is kind of hard to violate (The speed limit if you wonder 300 million meters per second, actually 2.99999 something)

One of the things YOU should check is your brake lights.. Do they operate properly?

IF yes,I can only suggest professional help and you are already doing that so...

If NO, that is the problem
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Old 10-03-2008, 09:30 AM   #13
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What did you say?

If the sensor is disconnected from the coach and the wheel, could be laying on a work bench, and you do not get the correct ohm reading then it is faulty. Yes it could be the wire or it could be the connector but the end result is its faulty.
I was told that when the brake fluid gets old it picks up minute particals which causes the sensor to malfunction...I have a new sensor in hand and as soon as its installed , I will let you know if the dash light goes out..Thanks
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Old 10-03-2008, 12:25 PM   #14
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I checked all sensors with my ohmmeter. I had about 1500 ohms on all except one which had 200 ohms. I have a new on order which I should get in about a week. Hopefully that will fix my problem. But I do not understand why that would not show on a scanner. Unless there is just enough impedance that would make the scanner think that all was good.
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