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Old 10-25-2008, 05:44 PM   #1
gg
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NE1. Pick up coach at dealer next to factory and drove home. No problems, used the break-in recommedation posted in the WH owners manual.

2. stop and backed in to drive -way and the ABS light and LCD screen CHECK ABS came on. Have not moved it since. ? will the system check it self out when I drive it. I checked all the rims they were warm not hot, but all had the new lining burnt smell. I have a Scanguage and it would not scan the code.

3. Oil pressure was 42 psi at 55 and 17 at idle after approx 4hr continues drive.

Heading back to Indiana in January for schedule adjustments on coach.

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Old 10-25-2008, 05:44 PM   #2
gg
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NE1. Pick up coach at dealer next to factory and drove home. No problems, used the break-in recommedation posted in the WH owners manual.

2. stop and backed in to drive -way and the ABS light and LCD screen CHECK ABS came on. Have not moved it since. ? will the system check it self out when I drive it. I checked all the rims they were warm not hot, but all had the new lining burnt smell. I have a Scanguage and it would not scan the code.

3. Oil pressure was 42 psi at 55 and 17 at idle after approx 4hr continues drive.

Heading back to Indiana in January for schedule adjustments on coach.

NEWEST NUBIE
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Old 10-26-2008, 02:10 AM   #3
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It takes a tech2 with a ABS program to detect the codes..Sorry, but a Scanguage just won't get it. You can start the engine and the light should go out.

If you suspect a bad sensor they can be checked with a ohm meter...Good Luck
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:04 AM   #4
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I just had this problem. At 1100 miles turned out the be the 20A brake fuse. Give that a try and keep us posted.

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Old 10-26-2008, 04:38 AM   #5
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Do the obvious checks first...

1) Check the ABS fuse in the coach fuse panel in the engine compartment.

2) Pull the ABS sensors, clean, lube and re-seat them.

All of this is documented on my website...
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Old 10-26-2008, 05:48 AM   #6
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There are basically 4 ways the ABS can fail that the computer can detect.

1: Sensor failure
2: Wire failure
3: Auctuator failure
4: Computer failure

Of these sensor failure is most common, wires #2

Sensors include a set of Hall Effect sensors on each wheel, plus possibly one or two more on the drive shaft/transmission (I am not sure) and.. This one is important THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH.

Hall effect sensors almost never fail.. NOTE ALMOST never,, However connectors can corrode, wires can break and/or get snagged by debris and pulled off the sensor, other things can damage the sensors and cause them to fail this has happened to me. (Well my daughter), Still kind of rare.

Brake light.. The ABS (And I might add the cruise control) look for the presence of 12 volt DC across the brake light switch. If it's there.. Good.. If not.. Then we have one of two conditions.

1: Brake pedal depressed (normal if you are trying to stop) 2: A problem

Possible problems in line order include

Blown fuse, broken wire, bad switch, broken wire, burned out or disconnected brake lights, broken wire, bad ground.

If the fuse is blown no 12 volts
If the switch is shorted or mal-adjusted and not opening like it should, no difference between the terminals
If the brake pedal does not return to full up. Switch remains closed
If the bulbs are burned out, no ground for the 12 volt sensor
If the wires are broke or the ground is bad.. Same as blown fuse or BOB (Burned Out Bulb)

This is the most common sensor failure.

Last is the computer itself.. COSTLY but if it's new. don't cost you.

Testing procedure.

With the parking brake set have someone stand behind your rig, start it up DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL, if the light goes out.. that's not the sensor that failed.. If the light stays on ask them if the brake lights are on.. YES. Problem identified (Shorted, mal-adjusted switch or brake pedal not returning full up) if NO press brakes.. Are the lights on now? If YES then it's something else, if not read the rest of the "Brake sensor" portion.. I'd start by checking to make sure the bulbs have not either burned out or lost contact.. Both have happened to me. (And a bad switch too) in the case of bulbs it was one at a time though so the ABS still worked.
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Old 10-26-2008, 06:12 AM   #7
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It would not be inconsistent to see a failure like this in early ownership. When your chassis ships from Union City it is plugged in and every system is tested. Been there and seen that!

Leaving the plant the chassis are brought over to an independent PDI Shop and they are run through a checklist again along with a 2nd electronic and electrical check. You can see the PDI check certificate if you look behind your bumper, there will be a tag with a signature, the tag is typically on the driver's side.

What we often experience as owners is that during the coach building process it may happen that some little wire or sensor is disturbed during fabrication. Moving your vehicle to your Workhorse Service Center with the ABS light on will not prevent you from safely getting there. With the lamp lit the ABS system becomes disabled however your brakes will l remain fully functional.

I am certain that your visit to the WSC will bring you a quick resolution in this matter since they are equipped with the necessary electronic equipment to check your chassis.

Congratulations on the purchase of your new motorhome. I hope that you can share with us some additional information about your year, make, model, length etc and place those items in your profile and signature file.

Thanks for choosing iRV2.com's Workhorse Forum, your best resource for all things pertaining to your chassis and motorhome.
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:49 AM   #8
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Thanks everyone on the response. We are impressed with the overall quality of the coach and chassis.

I will troubleshoot the ABS Light and post my findings. I fully realize the ABS is a nice option but not required to drive the MH.

DriVer - I tried to look you up at the Hershey
Workhorse Display. Alan stepped up and answered my many questions. We drove both WH and Ford. Liked the WH & payed a premium $ for it.
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:50 AM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by gg:
DriVer - I tried to look you up at the Hershey
Workhorse Display. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>gg, I'm sorry I missed you. I always like to meet iRV2 folks at any of the events that I go to. Next up, The Florida Samboree in Orlando, FL at the Central Florida Fairground right off W. Colonial Drive.
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Old 10-27-2008, 03:51 PM   #10
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ABS Light off at 357.5 miles

I checked the simple things first the fuse box. The fuse were good. Then started the coach and drove it .5 miles stop engine and restart. ABS light and Display (check ABS) was gone. Drove another 6 miles and everthing is fine.
I think the Control module did its diagnosis and cleared the fault.

Thank for all the tips

I tried to add a signature with the coach info but it did not post? 2009 Safari Simba 34SBD on a WH W22 with 8.1 V8,Allison 6sp/ Spicer .586
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Old 10-27-2008, 04:35 PM   #11
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I fixed your sig! Right Stuff - Wrong Box!
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Old 10-27-2008, 04:37 PM   #12
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You must have a direct line to Bill Gates

thanks gg
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Old 10-27-2008, 06:32 PM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by gg:
You must have a direct line to Bill Gates </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Bill and me go waaaay back!
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