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Old 09-23-2014, 12:13 PM   #1
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AC quit W24

Sorry if this is a redundant issue, but I could not find anything here.
This is our first Motorhome, a 2006 Itasca Suncruiser 38T (W24 chassis). The AC has quit working while traveling, and the fan (AC & Heat) quits blowing when we drive up hill.
Is this a problem other have had and solved?

Thanks for your help.
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:25 PM   #2
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Does the basement air work while plugged in to shore power or when on generator?
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:38 PM   #3
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More info please.

Are you talking about your roof air or dash air.

Does it come on going down hill?
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Old 09-23-2014, 02:14 PM   #4
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Thanks for the reply(s) Coderbill and mgscott.
I am talking about the dash air from the engine.
Our house AC is from the heat pump in the basement.
We experienced the AC problem on our way home. I don't know if the AC in the basement works, but I will give it a try when I get a chance.....are the two systems tied together somehow?
The fan comes back on when we are driving level or down hill....but it does not blow cold.
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Old 09-23-2014, 03:15 PM   #5
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If I understand correctly, it may be a vacuum issue. The first thing I would check is under the hood. There should be a black plastic sphere approx. the size of a baseball attached to the firewall. Check vacuum hose connection on bottom of plastic ball.
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:21 PM   #6
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The dash air and basement air/heat pump are twp separate systems and not tied together. The only time I will run the dash air is when I might be starting the coach on a journey. I like to run the generator on hot days to keep the coach cool on the trips. It typically uses less fuel (the generator) than the engine driven AC. That however does not answer your question but if the dash air does not work try running the coach basement air on generator until the source of the problem on the engine AC can be trouble diagnosed..
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Old 09-24-2014, 03:16 AM   #7
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Thank you gruelens and codgerbill.
I'll check the vacuum hose when I get to the coach next time....( don't have room to store it at home).
I would not have expected that the generator + the house AC would be more efficient to run than the engine AC.....thanks for that tip!
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:03 AM   #8
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Here is the vacuum hose diagram.

-Tom

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Old 09-30-2014, 08:42 PM   #9
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It sounds very much like the problem I had with my 2005 Suncruiser 38J. The fan and A/C worked intermittently for a period but then finally stopped working all together. A Workhorse authorized service centre was not able to find the problem. So I went back to my dealer and their service department spent 8 hours working on it. The cause turned out to be not one but two wires chaffed through in the wire harness where it crosses the driver's side of the radiator. If the vacuum turns out not to be the cause check out the wiring. Good Luck.
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gruelens View Post
If I understand correctly, it may be a vacuum issue. The first thing I would check is under the hood. There should be a black plastic sphere approx. the size of a baseball attached to the firewall. Check vacuum hose connection on bottom of plastic ball.
To expand on the possible vacuum problem. On gasoline powered vehicles, vacuum is produced in the engine's intake manifold. This is because the engine is basically a big pump (sucks in air and fuel). At idle, with the throttle closed, maximum vacuum is produced. Think of covering a vacuum cleaner hose inlet. As the throttle is opened more, the airflow increases and the vacuum decreases. At high throttle openings (such as going up a hill), the vacuum is quite low, and is below the amount needed to properly operate the controls and actuators on systems (such as heater controls) that make use of vacuum. There is usually a reservoir (Black sphere as mentioned in the quoted post above) that maintains vacuum in the system during times of low vacuum supply. It also has a one way check valve to keep the vacuum from "going backwards" back into the engine. If the reservoir or check valve are leaking, OR if any of the hoses, controls, or actuators leak, vacuum will be lost when the throttle is opened wide. This may produce the symptoms you mention.

A simple vacuum gauge tool is an easy way to test for function and leaks.

Example: http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W80594-...vacuum+testers


In response to the post about wire damage, be aware that rodents have been know to feast on wire insulation, causing all sorts of electrical problems. Keep your eyes open for any signs of insulation damage or nesting material in the area of the heater box/controls/wiring.
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