Another autopark question

[DBro]

I have a late 2000 WH chassis with what appears to be the infamous autopark failure. While the autopark will release, the dash light is on (steady) and I can hear the pump running when in neutral or drive. I added fluid and nothing changed. I know I have to disconnect it in order to take it to the dealer as I'm afraid to drive it any distance. However, my unit is one of the later ones with no foot brake and I can find nothing underneath that looks like the diagram in the owner's manual. I've real all I can find on this and other forums and asked the question on other forums as well. While I got some good info and answers it appears most of what I found dealt with the older model with the foot brake. My unit has a box with the fill reservoir on one end and a closed box on the other with just one cable leading in. I called WH and they advised that diagram in my owner's manual was outdated, but nothing more was available and they were not allowed to tell me how to disconnect. Question, is there a way to disconnect safely without calling for a tow truck? I'm sure Coachnet would sping for the tow, but I just hate to try to tow it out of my narrow dead end street if I can drive it. Thanks

[DBro]

I have a late 2000 WH chassis with what appears to be the infamous autopark failure. While the autopark will release, the dash light is on (steady) and I can hear the pump running when in neutral or drive. I added fluid and nothing changed. I know I have to disconnect it in order to take it to the dealer as I'm afraid to drive it any distance. However, my unit is one of the later ones with no foot brake and I can find nothing underneath that looks like the diagram in the owner's manual. I've real all I can find on this and other forums and asked the question on other forums as well. While I got some good info and answers it appears most of what I found dealt with the older model with the foot brake. My unit has a box with the fill reservoir on one end and a closed box on the other with just one cable leading in. I called WH and they advised that diagram in my owner's manual was outdated, but nothing more was available and they were not allowed to tell me how to disconnect. Question, is there a way to disconnect safely without calling for a tow truck? I'm sure Coachnet would sping for the tow, but I just hate to try to tow it out of my narrow dead end street if I can drive it. Thanks

[max49]

Sorry you're not getting any help here, at least so far. I'm afraid we're on our own with this mad scientist invention of a parking brake. If WH puts it in the WH owners manual o0n how to disconnect it , why can't they tell you.
Mine is still under warranty and thats bad enough, I am so excited to know that when the warranty is over it's gonna be "all my problem"
Every time I think, "I like my MH, I remember the Autopark" and I have'nt even had any trouble with it yet.

[DBro]

Ust an update, have a friend in the towing business and he sent one of his drivers out and disconnected the autopark, only took him about 5 min. Then drove it in to the Workhorse dealer with no problems. They're to call me with the damages as soon as they've checked it out.

[Kahunna]

DBro that's great but do you know what your friend disconnected.

If it is really a simple thing to do It would good info for all of us to have.

I have already been towed from Marathon Fl to Homestead because of the power parking brake, I would love to be able to avoid it if there is a next time.

[NeilV]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Kahunna:
DBro that's great but do you know what your friend disconnected.

If it is really a simple thing to do It would good info for all of us to have.

I have already been towed from Marathon Fl to Homestead because of the power parking brake, I would love to be able to avoid it if there is a next time. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

In 94/95 it was in section 2 page seven of the chassis manual. the section was labeled emergency release of autopark brake for towing. Back then it was equiped with a foot pedal and the proceedure was to put out wheel chocks, start the vehicle, manually apply the parking brake via the foot pedal, put the transmission in neutral, remove the cotter pin, washer, spring and clevis pin from the autopark activator, then you could hook up the tow truck and release the foot brake.

Regards,

Neil

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Kahunna:
If it is really a simple thing to do It would good info for all of us to have. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Please use extreme caution when attempting to do this, make sure you have a least 2 heavy duty wheel chocks in place before you disable the parking brake. Once disengaged the only brake remaining is the service brake.

Please know that you can not perform this operation on the newer systems because they need hydraulic pressure to over come the spring tension in the e-brake drum.

[NeilV]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Kahunna:
If it is really a simple thing to do It would good info for all of us to have. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Please use extreme caution when attempting to do this, make sure you have a least 2 heavy duty wheel chocks in place before you disable the parking brake. Once disengaged the only brake remaining is the service brake.

Please know that you can not perform this operation on the newer systems because they need hydraulic pressure to over come the spring tension in the e-brake drum. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Agreed, let's not get a Darwin Award posted for anyone of us.

[DBro]

I was under the unit with him when he started, but since autopark not totally locked up he asked me to put it in drive and that made the disconnect possible. My unit is not like the one shown in the owners manual, it has no foot parking brake. He disconnected the cable right at the spring unit with the tensoin off. I should have mentioned that we very carefully chocked the wheels before starting and the repair shop noted the work order so no one would try to move it without them. Shop has not called be with the final verdict yet. I'll let you know.

[DBro]

Coach is still at WCC dealer, but got a call that problem was the pressure switch and they quoted me $42 for the part and are "sure" that'll take care of it. Will let you know if that really solves it.

[Kahunna]

That's great DBro, the preasure switch is the exact same thing that went bad on my coach. The mechanic told me the part was 14 dollars but since it was still under warranty I never did see the price in writting.

It's been about 4000 miles so far and no problems.

[Greg I]

DBro that should fix your problem. Both of my pressure switches have failed. There is one on the main pump on the firewall and one on the booster pump under the coach. The one on the main pump failed first and I was able to get that part for about $12 at NAPA because it had a GM part number on it. Takes about 10 minutes to put in. The second switch failed in summer beach traffic on the only highway to the beach. Tow operator was able to disconnect the barke cable and I was able to drive it. No GM part number on that part and Workhorse will only give part numbers to dealers so I had to pay $45 for a $12 part and $150 in labor to put the system back together.

[tom112]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Please know that you can not perform this operation on the newer systems because they need hydraulic pressure to over come the spring tension in the e-brake drum. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
_____________________________________________
Driver,
Please advise how we do perform on the new sustems.
tks
tom