Community Forums

DriVer · 06-20-2007, 04:34 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Joe Gilbert:
I guess having done my inspection I've done everything W.H. requires.. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Did you check to see if the caliper(s) can freely move laterally?

Joe Gilbert · 06-21-2007, 08:34 AM

Yes DriVer I did check to see if the calipers were free; as best I could.

When I say I wish Workhorse would specify what maintenance is required I recall that for my previous Ford chassis Ford had a special grease and required that the calipers be split apart and the grease applied. Workhorse basically says nothing.

By the way I removed my tires for two reasons. 1) To rotate the fronts to the back. 2) To add balancing beads (see new post).

hwybnb · 06-22-2007, 04:25 AM

Workhorse recently provided out-of-warranty assistance to me in replacing a cracked rear brake rotor on my 2003-build W22 chassis with 30,000 miles. They do care.

The problem you describe is often caused by sticking caliper pins. That is usually caused by a combination lack of maintenance and infrequent use, as has been pointed out in other posts.

Good luck to you.

RICK SUSA · 06-22-2007, 06:54 AM

QUESTION.....if your slider pins do not have grease...or not working correct....what would one feel when braking???......if they stick or do not have proper grease what would one notice or feel when we use our brakes or if anything at all....thanks...rick

combined posts

DriVer · 06-22-2007, 12:38 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Joe Gilbert: Workhorse basically says nothing. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Joe, First of all it is in the Workhorse Maintenance Manual. I have it on CD and you can order it as well from Workhorse Parts.

If'n ya would have asked "us" we would have said plenty!

DriVer · 06-22-2007, 12:43 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by hwybnb:
Workhorse recently provided out-of-warranty assistance to me in replacing a cracked rear brake rotor on my 2003-build W22 chassis with 30,000 miles. They do care. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>hwybnb, Yes sir, absolutely. The good will gesture occurs quite often and must be coordinated through the Regional Service Manager.

When they hear the case and have an opportunity to consider what is going on, most likely they typically rule in the favor of the customer.

You are 100% correct: "They do care"

DriVer · 06-22-2007, 12:51 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RICK SUSA:
QUESTION.....if your slider pins do not have grease...or not working correct....what would one feel when braking </div></BLOCKQUOTE>RICK SUSA, A stuck caliper pin my present any number of issues. Once of the most prominent would be a vibrating steering wheel and a pull toward one direction or another.

When this occurs and the driver checks the wheels quite a bit of heat can be generated and the rim would be hot to the touch.

If the symptom is disregarded the caliper can become stuck applied and the drag on the rotor can cause serious damage to all the brake components on that wheel requiring a major investment in new parts.

If a driver "continuously" applies their brakes in an effort to slow down the MH when descending grades, this will damage the brakes and that isn't covered under the limited warranty.

The best advice that I can give anyone is .... "Don't use you brakes" until you absolutely need to and then do so intermittently until the vehicle comes to a stop.

jebturin · 07-11-2007, 11:35 AM

I also had a left rear brake lock-up on my W-22 Workhorse. It released on it's own after sitting 15 or 20 minutes and everything seems ok but tha ABS light comes on intermittently now.
Workhorse wouldn't fix my problem either. They didn't give me a reason.
Does anyone know what it should cost to clean and lube all four wheels brakes? Also, why would the ABS light be coming on after the brake lockup?
Thanks

adj · 07-11-2007, 01:10 PM

I don't know if this a sufficient way to check dragging brakes, so I'm putting my procedure out there for constructive critisism.

Every time I apply the brakes, I make it a point to back-off the throttle to see if I experience a dragging sensation.

hawg6 · 06-21-2008, 04:21 PM

I had my left rear brake overheat last week. I'm not sure how tight the brake seized, but it was smoking and smelled of hot brake lining when I reached home. The motorhome has not been sitting, in fact it was driven three weeks prior to this problem on a 600 mile trip and 250 miles on another trip two weeks prior. I had driven 110 miles three days prior to the 110 mile return trip when the problem happened. I did not travel any steep and/or long grades and do not ride the brakes when I slowdown or stop. As yours did, mine turned freely after the brakes cooled. I took the rear wheels off and completely inspected the brake and rotor. There was not permanent damage I could see. The rotor was free to turn, the pins were free ( I had removed and lubricated the pins in December), and the pistons in the calipers freely moved back into the caliper when I applied pressure to them. After I reassembled the brakes and mounted the wheels I drove the MH applying the brakes and then jacked the rear of the motorhome up to find the wheel remained free to turn by hand. The rotor and brake pads did show that they had been very hot, but there was no sign of parts melting and the pads were worn fairly even. I would prefer to have a failed part and therefore been able to determine the cause, rather than wait for the next problem. Only time I have had a brake act in this manner was due to the rubber portion of the brake line delaminating and holding pressure on an individual caliper. This happened to a couple of my cars and was intermitent with the pressure dissipating after the cars sat for awhile. The cars had high mileage when this happened. The MH has 23000 miles on it. I will removed the flexible brake line and replace it, but this is not a failure I have read about in all the Workhorse brake problem posts I have read.

Max Hubrich · 06-21-2008, 04:43 PM

Jebturin,

Pull the ABS sensors out on all 4 wheels, clean them off good- blow out all debris- and re-install. Use alcohol to clean. I did this and it solved my problem.

Good luck,

Thudman · 06-21-2008, 05:26 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I think you need to moderate you approach and don't assume that you're going to get hosed at every turn. Approach the dealership and or Workhorse with a bit of humility and you would be surprised how far people would be willing to help you. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Mike: I tried that, and as you know, got nowhere.

Thudman

jdsr · 06-22-2008, 11:05 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by hawg6:
I had my left rear brake overheat last week. I'm not sure how tight the brake seized, but it was smoking and smelled of hot brake lining when I reached home. The motorhome has not been sitting, in fact it was driven three weeks prior to this problem on a 600 mile trip and 250 miles on another trip two weeks prior. I had driven 110 miles three days prior to the 110 mile return trip when the problem happened. I did not travel any steep and/or long grades and do not ride the brakes when I slowdown or stop. As yours did, mine turned freely after the brakes cooled. I took the rear wheels off and completely inspected the brake and rotor. There was not permanent damage I could see. The rotor was free to turn, the pins were free ( I had removed and lubricated the pins in December), and the pistons in the calipers freely moved back into the caliper when I applied pressure to them. After I reassembled the brakes and mounted the wheels I drove the MH applying the brakes and then jacked the rear of the motorhome up to find the wheel remained free to turn by hand. The rotor and brake pads did show that they had been very hot, but there was no sign of parts melting and the pads were worn fairly even. I would prefer to have a failed part and therefore been able to determine the cause, rather than wait for the next problem. Only time I have had a brake act in this manner was due to the rubber portion of the brake line delaminating and holding pressure on an individual caliper. This happened to a couple of my cars and was intermitent with the pressure dissipating after the cars sat for awhile. The cars had high mileage when this happened. The MH has 23000 miles on it. I will removed the flexible brake line and replace it, but this is not a failure I have read about in all the Workhorse brake problem posts I have read. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Since your brakes overheated and smoked I hope you will report to NHTSA. If you need info on how to you can find it on this site or pm me and I will help.

RottenRalph · 06-22-2008, 02:07 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RICK SUSA:
QUESTION.....if your slider pins do not have grease...or not working correct....what would one feel when braking???......if they stick or do not have proper grease what would one notice or feel when we use our brakes or if anything at all....thanks...rick

combined posts </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

With my '03 W-20, all 3 of my caliper problems were only noticed by smelling the overheating. Other than the smell, I had no idea. They were all on the rear brakes. Once was 3 days after all calipers were cleaned, lubed and fluid changed. In the 7 years that I owned a Ford chassis, I had 1 caliper lock. This was on the Rt front during stop and go traffic. I had to fight the stearing wheel to limp off the road.