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Hammerdown · 10-16-2009, 08:15 PM

After having the issue with the crankshaft sensor and replacing it, I thought our starting problems were over. We started our first real trip, from Michigan to Sedona. After taking a short afternoon break on our third day out, we were ready to leave when there was no response to turning the ignition key. Called AAA for a wrecker and were towed about 80 miles to a 24HR Kenworth repair facility in Kansas. They didn't have much RV experience but they were open after 6PM. After a couple of hours of searching it was determined that the neutral safety switch had failed. They did not have the part but were able to bypass the switch by taking the circuit to ground. Unfortunately while looking for the problem the tech probed every electrical connection he could find, including the BCC and who knows what else. It started and we were on our way. Somehow the probing caused some other problems, the door step no longer worked, the radio did not work, the windshield fans did not work and the BCC wouldn't switch batteries. Luckily the generator would charge the coach battery. We decided to continue our trip and a couple of days later the cruise control dropped out three times for no reason but would reset. After two days spent with friends in Denver we headed toward our Sedona destination. Approaching Albuquerque, while running about 60mph, the engine quit. I made it to the shoulder, it restarted on the first try and away we went. Twenty minutes later, again at 60, it quit again. We got busy on the phone and contacted a repair facility in Albuquerque but they would close before we could get there, luckily they worked a half a day on Saturday. As we worked our way to Walmarts for the night it quit three more times in slow freeway traffic, it would restart each time by shifting into neutral as we coasted. It was then I realized that the stalling occurred after using the turn signal, the first two times after passing. We left the RV with the techs, rented a car to get to Sedona and back to pick up the RV. They could not duplicate the problem after many tries. We decided to head back home to Michigan without using the turn signals or the cruise. This wasn't a lot of fun because I had to plan any lane changes only after making sure we had a very large separation between us and traffic to the rear. To top things off it decided to rain most of our last two days and with the wiper control on the turn signal lever I would turn the wipers on before starting the engine. Well, we made it home without any further incidents but now I have to find out why the things quit after the Kansas repair and figure out what the turn signals have to do with the engine quitting. I checked all the coach fuses this afternoon which were fine and will check under the 'hood' tomorrow. Does anyone have any ideas on what to look for?

Thanks,
Dick

justimagination · 10-16-2009, 09:23 PM

It was then I realized that the stalling occurred after using the turn signal, the first two times after passing.

First thing I would do is take out the turn signal bulb's, front & rear and the test drive. I have seen FILAMENT'S in double filament bulb's short out, and can really have you puzzled. Normally they will make your turn signal INDICATOR on the dash light up when applying the brake pedal. Let us hear how it goes, and good luck.

David G.

cannon man · 10-17-2009, 05:51 AM

sounds like your computer is out to lunch. try disconecting your batteries for a few hours to give it a time out.this has solved several problems for me.

Hammerdown · 10-19-2009, 01:22 PM

Well, I have checked every fuse I can find and step still doesn't come out, the radio still doesn't work and the windshield corner fans still don't work. I haven't been able to make it stall with the turn signals either. Anyone have any other ideas?

Dick

EngineerMike · 10-20-2009, 11:24 AM

Could be an intermittent short in the harness wiring in the steering column; that wiring is common to the several systems you mention (or at least the routing). I recall reading about someone whose harness got pulled hard over a stay in the column which bent & frayed insulation to create a short to ground or short between wires (don't recall which). That should be an easy investigation. While there check all plugs to assure they are making contact.

Jeff H · 10-21-2009, 09:40 PM

What model chassis? Could be as last post said, short wire harness in steering column and ignition switch. Happened to us on our P32, that's why we have W22 now.

Hammerdown · 10-22-2009, 12:51 PM

It is a P32 chassis. I have looked at the wiring but haven't tried to remove it. Appearance-wise it looks very good, no binding. It's a bit of a hassle getting in there, the easiest way I have found is to remove the drivers seat. Do coach manufacturers typically have wiring diagrams available? Unfortunately ours is a R-Vision 2002 Trail-Lite model, they were purchased by Monaco in 2006 and Monaco has since been purchased. Anyone out there have a R-Vision manual?

Dick

Hammerdown · 10-27-2009, 07:23 AM

I have had a new neutral safety switch on order for over a week. Unfortunately I was sent a manifold pressure switch by mistake. That has hopefully been corrected and I should have the NSS in my hands in the next couple of days. Is it possible that my none working items are wired through the NSS which has been bypassed?

Dick

TandW · 10-27-2009, 11:22 AM

Do you have any AAPB function left after so many stops at speed? I'm thinkin' about a failing ignition switch here. You'll know it when your batteries are full but nothing works. Good luck!!

Hammerdown · 10-27-2009, 01:12 PM

TandW,
You'll have to enlighten me on 'AAPB', not familiar with the term, something PowerBarkes? Only stopped twice, last three times got it started shifting to neutral while coasting @ <10mph.
By the way, I put a new ignition switch and relay kit in it three months ago.
Dick

TandW · 10-27-2009, 01:20 PM

Dick. I believe you have the Automatically Applied Parking Brake. So with as many stops at speed as you say you've had, the brake fristion material must be nearly gone.

TandW · 10-27-2009, 01:22 PM

On edit; fristion becomes friction. Wow!!!

Hammerdown · 10-27-2009, 02:12 PM

Luckily I do not have the auto applied parking brake, mine is the good old left foot pedal with the lever pull release. The AAPB would really be a problem with the stalling!
Thanks for the explanation, fristen or friction!

Dick

TandW · 10-27-2009, 02:31 PM

You said it!! There's nothing like having the AAPB stop you before you can maneuver safely to the side!! Well, have you got any "HI-SPEED IGNITION BREAKERS" under the hood, fed from the main fuse and relay center? A heavy draw could have taken one out, disabling your radio and fans. They sorta kinda look like a deep sardine can with 2 binding posts. But they're only about 1.5" long. Good luck!!