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Old 05-03-2005, 09:52 AM   #1
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I fried another spark wire even after the vent kit was installed. What next?
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Old 05-03-2005, 09:52 AM   #2
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I fried another spark wire even after the vent kit was installed. What next?
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Old 05-03-2005, 04:36 PM   #3
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For starters, check the direction and location of the air vent kit. I would like to tell you that I share your pain tonight. Just this evening I pulled all the ignition wires off and tested them.

I also have found damaged plug wires. Two times the #5 cylinder. I have found several items to consider. Accel company, a division of Mr.Gasket has a product called extreme 9000 heat reflective ignition wires. Set part number for our engine (8.1) is 9065. Can be purchased at any of the hot rod shops or Jegs.com or Summit racing. Cost around 80.00 a set. This is just one option.

There are heat protective sleeves/wraps which can be installed around each suspected wire which should prevent this damage. There are too many variety's of sleeves to list. ALL of these sleeves are derived from the racing industry. I plan on purchasing this set with heat sleeves tomorrow morning.

I have owned this coach since new, just turned 5.5K miles. I have not taken it in for warrenty service with regard to this issue, as I prefer to fix it myself in order to save my sanity.

This is my first post on this forum, I would like to thank those of you who have posted their findings to help all the rest of us.
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Old 05-03-2005, 05:39 PM   #4
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Matt S., Welcome to irv2
Thanks for your input, this subject has been a burning issue for alot of RV'ers on this site. Some have come up with the same answer as you.
If you go to "Find" at top of posts an type "spark plug cables" you will get some more insite as what your dealing with, hope it helps. --"007"
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Old 05-07-2005, 04:03 PM   #5
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I fried 4 sets of wires before I changed to cooper wires and insulators from Napa.
Driven about 4000mi with no problems so far.
WCC also installed the air vent kit, which I guess is helping as long as I am moving.
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Old 05-20-2005, 04:25 PM   #6
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Well I called the engineer at workhorse that I have been working with. He sent me an experimental type plug wire and metal shield. The boot on the plug wire is longer and the shield extends over the entire length of the boot which brings it well out away from the exhaust manifold. Also he suggested I direct the vent kit ducting directly at the #5 plug. Time will tell if this is the fix. All I can say is after putting it all together it looks much better than the original setup.
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Old 05-20-2005, 05:24 PM   #7
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My 2001 W22 (8.1L Vortec) has shields on the boots which I believe are original. I replaced my plugs (with platinum) this past week because I purchased the unit from a private party with no maintenance records (I'm the third owner). Funny thing is, I found 2 platinum plugs and 6 AC Delco installed. I also broke one of the plug wires and has to replace the set.
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Old 05-20-2005, 05:25 PM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Full-Timers:
All I can say is after putting it all together it looks much better than the original setup. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Please let us know how the new mods are working for you after you've run the rig for a while. I wish you success with you're motorhome.
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Old 05-30-2005, 03:53 AM   #9
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Hello,

Just an update about my findings with regards to plug wires.

1. Taylor extreme brand, part no. 99615, cost around 150.00, alittle pricy but IMHO the best **** wire you'll find. 10.4mm thick with heat sheild over the entire length. If this wire fails, I'm gonna be very upset....lol
2. Ventalation.....has anyone noticed the light differences between the left and right side of coach engine bay? I have found on my coach that the problem side (driver side) when viewed thru the wheel area is very dark, I can't see anything because all the add-on stuff blocks light access thru the grill. However the passenger side, I can view the engine just fine thru the wheel area. This, in just my own little way has told me that vent kits are going to be necessary to bring some air over that left side.
3. Vent kit. I looked, I touched, I wasn't impressed. I went to the boat store, after all these things are just boats with tires right?
Boats use vent fans to air out the engine compartments. In line style vent fans, water proof, that accept hose right onto them and run on 12VDC. 3" style and 4" style. And guess what...they are cheap. Retail...25.00 bucks.
The air flow rating is 240CFM, a nice charge of air. So....
I bought one, installed it under the drivers foot area, routed the hose to blow at the side of the engine, and it was horrible. The noise was so noticeable that I made a three mile trip, came home and took it out. I then reinstalled it in the grill area and routed the hose back to the engine. Now...You can hardly hear it running, and at highway speed, you can't hear it at all. I installed it with a lighted switch to activate it.

I just came home from a 300 mile trip. No problems, and that coach runs good with 8 cylinders firing. Vent fan ran the whole time. Now we'll wait and see. I hope this info is of help to someone, you folks on here have helped me in many ways with your thoughts and ideas. Thank you.
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Old 05-30-2005, 05:43 PM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Matt S.:
I just came home from a 300 mile trip. No problems, and that coach runs good with 8 cylinders firing. Vent fan ran the whole time. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I believe this is one of the first installations using a powered vent that we've read about. I hope it continues to work for you.
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Old 06-19-2005, 03:03 PM   #11
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The only thing I can add to the last post about using inline vents (as those that draw air in a boat compartment) is that I use two. One for each side fo the engine installed the same way.
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Old 08-06-2005, 03:41 PM   #12
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Is this problem on any RV with the Workhorse Chassis? Or only on certain manufacturers due to design of front cap? Not enough air entering?
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Old 08-06-2005, 04:25 PM   #13
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I believe there are more Workhorse chassis out there that DO NOT have this problem. It is a combination of the left exhaust manifold design and the coach manufactures front grill.
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Old 08-06-2005, 04:37 PM   #14
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Has anybody had this problem with the
new w-24 chassis? Has workhorse done anything to address this problem?
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