Community Forums

CaptainJerry · 11-29-2014, 01:00 PM

I just found this thread and chose to revive it rather than start a new one.

I thought my W22 issue with the intermittent loud fan noise at higher coolant temps was from the two electric fans in front of the radiator kicking on to provide greater airflow to bring the coolant temp down and then shutting off when the set temperature was reached. I thought that the engine belt driven fan behind the radiator ran at the engine speed and continuously rather than clutched. Am I misunderstanding?

I too would like to cut back on the fan noise at higher coolant temps - like when under load on an uphill grade or in hotter weather or when I have the dash air conditioning on - anything that makes the coolant temp rise to the setpoint for the fan to come on.

From the previous posts, I learned that I should replace the "cool pack" rubber sheeting above the radiator that was all but gone when I bought the coach to decrease the chance for ram air to bypass the radiator.

Sounds like the next step if that doesn't help would be to change the thermostat to a lower temp rating - 180? if I don't get a reduction in the frequency of the noisy fans.

Does this sound like a good strategy?
And is the fan noise actually coming from the electric fans?

426smartin · 11-29-2014, 09:16 PM

Any one have a picture of the "cool pack"

Davel · 11-29-2014, 09:55 PM

The fan noise is not coming from the electric fans, they are very quiet. After replacing the shrouding, which is very important, the next best way to reduce noise is change the thermostat. I put sound deadneing material from the radiator all the way back to the transmission and to the frame on both sides which helped some, and reduced the heat in the coach some, but did not quiet the engine fan enough for me.

Good luck,
Dave

BA-in-Mich · 12-28-2014, 05:37 PM

I have been having this problem for a few years now. I had my radiator recored a half a dozen years ago. Problem solved with the running hot and the fan kicking on constantly, well temporally. a couple of years ago the fan started coming on more and more often. Now when the out side temp hits 80* the fan is on and running. The funny thing about this is I have 2 temp gauges. Neither one of them are moving off of the 180* mark but yet the fan is kicked on. The front of the unit is completely sealed so all air coming through the grill goes through the radiator. I have replaced the clutch for the fan last year and that did not fix it. I am wondering if I have a dead spot in the middle of my radiator? Kicking on the electric fans do nothing to help the situation.

Davel · 12-28-2014, 11:08 PM

Ba-in-Mich,

I did a little research about cooling issues and found a really good article that points to other causes. AutoMotiveu.com It was very informative and might help your issue.

Good luck,
Dave

BA-in-Mich · 01-19-2015, 03:22 PM

I thought of going to a 160* degree thermostat but with the 180* that I have in it, when the temps outside are 40 degrees it's a little difficult to get any degree of heat out of the heater,

WeatherTodd · 01-24-2015, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BA-in-Mich

I thought of going to a 160* degree thermostat but with the 180* that I have in it, when the temps outside are 40 degrees it's a little difficult to get any degree of heat out of the heater,

wives tale. Try making sure your coolant dillution is correct. In the colder months you want it mixed "richer" to retain heat. Not so much in the warmer ones.

BA-in-Mich · 01-25-2015, 12:01 PM

Antifreeze is at a 50-50 mix. Can't go any lesser, because of the freezing temps. The engine maintains 180*. As I watch the temp. gauge ( Auto meter ) as soon as it a degree or two above 180* that fan is kicking on and it won't kick off till it's a couple of degrees below 180* and sometimes it won't kick off at all. If the outside temps are in the low 70's or below the fan never kicks in. I have been scratching my head on this one or awhile.

Snappy2265 · 02-01-2015, 07:43 PM

Have driven big block Chevy delivery trucks for 20years, be glad it is working, the radiators and airflow on the big blocks are marginal at best, keep your radiator clean, inside and out, flush every couple years and make sure to wash out radiator from the back side along with any other coolers that might be in front of it. The problem is not the fan clutch but a lack of air flow through the radiator. Changing the fan clutch may raise the kick on point, but that will get you dangerously close to the boiling point, keeping in mind that the radiator runs warmer than the actual engine temp. Make sure that your engine shrouds are in good shape and are in the proper place.

M&EM · 02-02-2015, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snappy2265

------- keeping in mind that the radiator runs warmer than the actual engine temp. --------.

NOT!

hedhunter9 · 02-24-2015, 07:56 PM

We picked up a 94 Coachman 34' Santera Last year. It has the 454 big block in it..
Temps were fine in the spring and early summer with temps under 80.
But when the weather got warmer and we ran the cab air, I noticed the roaring fan kicking in more and more... Temp gauge never went in the red, stayed around the 210 mark..
I flushed the radiator with the recomended stuff. Cleaned all the fins... (from behind) It has all new hoses, thermostat and pump. Shroud is like new and blade is inside it the proper amount. I sealed the area from the grill to the radiator so all the air is forced thru it... It helped some.. Now it stays cooler longer.
The fan still kicks on more than I like.
My thought is, that the radiator just isnt big enough... If I turn the air cond off, it runs cooler and the fan doesnt kick on much.. So boarderline cooling is my theory...
So I am thinking of adding a small radiator (maybe with an electric fan) and run the heater hose to it so that the heat shut off valve diverts the coolant thru it instead of just shutting off the heater core inside the motorhome. (if your motor ever starts to overheat, turn your heater on inside and watch how the temps drop)
I did this to a Toyota we had back in the 70's that overheated when ever we towed a trailer.( it was a new Toyota). It never overheated after that.
I read about lots of 454's that overheat and it seems to me that they just dont have enough cooling capacity for it.... ???

Bob

Davel · 02-25-2015, 11:03 PM

hedhunter9,

Sounds like you;ve done all the right stuff and your coach is acting very similar to mine. I have a ScanGuage and it gives very accurate temps. My coach would sycle beween 207 and 200 when the clutch fan would come on. I finally changed to a 180 degree thermostat and have not regretted it. I've noticed no changes in performance or mileage and really enjoy the quieter ride. The fan never comes on "full song" instead is a quiet muffled roar that is much better than before. It cycles between 198 down to 194 when the fan comes on.

Good luck,
Dave

Dwight · 02-26-2015, 12:59 AM

Same problem with 7.5L 460 F53 Ford. The 180 degree thermostat solves the problem with no negative results. I yearly check the radiator at night with a bright flashlight from the back side and if needed I spray the fins on both sides with a strong mixture of Dawn dish washing soap and water then use very warm water with a garden hose and spray nozzle to clean any oil film off the fins. I wear a rain coat and goggles and get all the corners behind the shroud.

With the power steering, transmission, and air conditioning coolers all mounted ahead of the radiator, the air temp hitting the viscous fan engagement control thermo spring (or metal disc type) can be above 200 degrees in the summer when ambient air temp is above 85F degrees even though the engine may be operating just above 185F degrees. The viscous fan engagement temp can be altered but I would not recommend it.