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Old 09-17-2013, 08:26 AM   #15
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At the risk of sounding like a NAGGER - - We always tell everyone to NEVER DRIVE WITH THE AUTOPARK LIGHT ON!!!! So often we hear that "The coach seemed OK so we just kept going."

If your AutoPark light is on because of a bad Light Switch, then the coach will still probably roll OK - - but unless you have done the tests and KNOW FOR SURE that your problem is limited to the Light Switch, you are running a risk of a lockup and perhaps damage to your parking brake shoes, drum etc.

On the other hand, if your AutoPark light is on because of a bad pump motor switch, or relay, or solenoid, or wiring (long list of possibilities), you are in imminent danger of a parking brake lockup.

The sneaky thing about the AutoPark light (as configured by the OEM), is that TWO DIFFERENT PRESSURE SWITCHES can turn it ON. One situation is relatively benign, but the other is potentially BIGTIME SERIOUS. Until you check it out, you are very unlikely to know which situation you are faced with.

As always, we recommend:

Learn how your AutoPark works

Carry spares - - Light Switch, RGS (pump motor switch), Relay

Build and install the Genie Lamp. It will tell you why your AutoPark Light is ON and warn you of potential lockups.

Owners can, and do repair almost all of their AutoPark problems. You can't often say that about transmissions, injections systems, onboard computers etc. Get yourself up to speed on this system and it will be far less worrisome.

Help is always available from oldusedbear11@charter.net
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:37 AM   #16
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Its a 37' 20k coach. It has a regular foot pedal parking brake. If I park it on a slope and use just the parking brake it will not stay if I pit the trans in park it will stay. There is also a foot switch what I thought was for the high beams but it wasn't. I have a red auto park light that is on my dash that has a piece of tape over it (previous owners).
Sounds like the AP is working then, with the foot pedal disconnected or needing some adjustment. Foot pedals are rare on the later models, having a yellow knob in it's place that does the same thing as putting the coach in park. Seems that the warning light itself is the culprit and maybe in need of a new gray switch. At any rate, I see that the oldusedbear, our resident AP expert, has arrived on the scene and most sure he will get this properly diagnosed for you.
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Old 09-17-2013, 03:25 PM   #17
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Where can I order the new parts to make the light go off and does anyone know what the part number is? Thanks
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:43 AM   #18
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autopark parts

The Rotten Green Switch is # 15961566.

The Rotten Brown Switch is # 15034355

The above two switches are interchangeable. Buy the cheapest and most readily available one. Both are used for the pump/motor switch position.

The other pressure switch is called simply The Light Switch. It is # 10218778, and is gray in color.

All three of these switches have multiple possibilities regarding source. Chev, GM, Workhorse all tend to be more expensive. NAPA, Carquest etc. may or may not have them in stock or at a good price. Best prices seem to be eBay and Amazon.

We highly recommend carrying a spare pump motor switch and a spare Light Switch. They are often not "locally available."

Contact me with questions - - oldusedbear11@charter.net
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:15 AM   #19
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I just order a spare gray light switch here.... ACDelco 10218778 OE Service Idle Speed Control Power Steering Press Switch : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:14 AM   #20
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Light Switch

The gray Light Switch is pretty generic and is used in a variety of automotive applications. Quite often it can be found on the shelf in many auto parts houses.

The Rotten Green Switch (and companion Rotten Brown Switch) seem to have been reserved for just the AutoPark system as nearly as we can tell. On the rare occasions you can find it locally, it is usually at twice the price that it is on Amazon or Ebay.

oub
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Old 09-20-2013, 08:31 AM   #21
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The light went off once I got the fluid topped off. There appears to be a small leak ( or I spilled some) coming from the back of the tank. I wiped the tank clean topped it off replaced cap. Lights goes out once you take it out park. Crawl back under and check it out and there is a few drips of atf on the bottom of the tank. Wiped them up and didnt get a chance to look at it today. Hopefully I just spilled some I really dont want to have to deal with a leak this late in the year.
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:14 AM   #22
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... There appears to be a small leak ( or I spilled some) coming from the back of the tank...
My tank had a small crack in it. I theorize that the yellow cap's breather hole didn't breath properly and the tank expanded and cracked. Or the original manufacturing process produced tanks that have a tendency to crack. Either way a new tank was found through an online airplane parts dealer out in Oregon. Along with the new tank I purchased the newer redesigned yellow cap directly from Parker.

All is good with the Royal Purple Max ATF filled tank now.
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:43 AM   #23
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cracked tank

Just for general info: IF you have the Parker T 108 system (most commonly found pump on a J71 system), it can be vented thru the cap - - BUT, it will also be vented thru a screen mesh that is built into the pump itself. You can see this mesh device - - located between the pump inlet and outlet - - Its a little round thing about 3/8 of an inch in diameter, and is connected to the top of the reservoir thru an internal port in the pump casting. Proper venting is a must as without it, there would be a huge surge of pressure when the parking brake is applied and the solenoid opens to let the actuator empty out into the reservoir. I'd guess that the force would be sufficient to totally rupture the plastic reservoir. The vents also allow for makeup air to enter the reservoir when fluid is pumped out to release the parking brake.

If you overfill the reservoir, the surplus ATF will try to escape thru these vents.

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