Auto Park Brake Workhorse P-32

[Brazel's RV Performance]

Folks,

We are certainly not trying to "price gouge" anyone, no one is forced to purchase this product but we feel it is worth the cost to not have to worry about another switch failure ever again. It is not so much the cost of the switches but rather the resulting damage caused by a locked up park brake. We have a coach in right now that the RGS leaked and caused his park brake to lock up leaving his park brake shoes, cable and output shaft seal ruined. Our new pressure switches are rated at 1,000,000 cycles and will far outlive the rest of the park brake components, just an alternative to not have to worry about them ever leaking again.

[UFO Pilot]

Have you "naysayers" ever tried to develop and market automotive parts? I tried 2 or 3 times when I was restoring old cars and couldn't find the part I needed. One of the items was a very simple part and the best manufacturing quote I could find was $10 each and 5000 minimum order. I doubt that I could had ever sold them for $10 let alone for more. When I checked with companies that produced these kind of parts they told me many parts would never be reproduced due to high costs and low demand. Mind you this was a small cast part and no moving parts.

My thanks to anyone who will invest their time and money in these kinds of parts.

[tropical36]

Originally Posted by UFO Pilot

Have you "naysayers" ever tried to develop and market automotive parts? I tried 2 or 3 times when I was restoring old cars and couldn't find the part I needed. One of the items was a very simple part and the best manufacturing quote I could find was $10 each and 5000 minimum order. I doubt that I could had ever sold them for $10 let alone for more. When I checked with companies that produced these kind of parts they told me many parts would never be reproduced due to high costs and low demand. Mind you this was a small cast part and no moving parts.

My thanks to anyone who will invest their time and money in these kinds of parts.

We understand, but doubt seriously if they are manufacturing these switches in house and most likely buying them elsewhere and then putting together a kit of sorts. This deserves a profit in itself, but there's such a thing as a statistical bell shape curve that says how much the cost should be to maximize sales and resulting profits. I for one won't be buying and many more interested parties won't be as well. Some will even be looking for the manufacture of these switches, so that they can order direct. I mean how much can they cost and if an adapter is required, so be it, as that has to be available somewhere also.

[George Schweikle]

Jon,

I notice that all other Brazel brake products have pictures on your website. What appeared to be a link to the product in your post either doesn't work, or is not a link. Can you please post a picture of the pressure switch upgrade?

Originally Posted by JonBrazel

Folks,

We are certainly not trying to "price gouge" anyone, no one is forced to purchase this product but we feel it is worth the cost to not have to worry about another switch failure ever again. It is not so much the cost of the switches but rather the resulting damage caused by a locked up park brake. We have a coach in right now that the RGS leaked and caused his park brake to lock up leaving his park brake shoes, cable and output shaft seal ruined. Our new pressure switches are rated at 1,000,000 cycles and will far outlive the rest of the park brake components, just an alternative to not have to worry about them ever leaking again.

[mgscott4]

Originally Posted by JonBrazel

Folks,

We are certainly not trying to "price gouge" anyone, no one is forced to purchase this product but we feel it is worth the cost to not have to worry about another switch failure ever again. It is not so much the cost of the switches but rather the resulting damage caused by a locked up park brake. We have a coach in right now that the RGS leaked and caused his park brake to lock up leaving his park brake shoes, cable and output shaft seal ruined. Our new pressure switches are rated at 1,000,000 cycles and will far outlive the rest of the park brake components, just an alternative to not have to worry about them ever leaking again.

Considering these (unreliable) switches are available for $32, $29 And $17 dollars, I would bet if these (reliable) switches were marketed at a much lower cost each, more switches would be sold, once the word got out that there are reliable switches available. More switches sold at a lower profit margin can be more profit than only a few switches sold at a higher profit margin. More end users would benefit.

Even though there was never a safety recall on these switches, there probably should have been. This is a safety related item.

When I see these new reliable switches marketed at more than 7 times the replacement cost.


It sure does seem like price gouging.

Quote: It is not so much the cost of the switches but rather the resulting damage caused by a locked up park brake.



ACDelco 15961566 Switch Assembly : Amazon.com : Automotive

ACDelco 15034355 Switch Assembly : Amazon.com : Automotive

ACDelco 10218778 OE Service Idle Speed Control Power Steering Press Switch : Amazon.com : Automotive

[Brazel's RV Performance]

@George Schweikle

[max49]

Originally Posted by JonBrazel

@George Schweikle

Dang, that sure does look nice. I was one of the first to buy the fuel filter adaptor, the 180* T Stat , SG, and I'd like to be able to patronize you and try your products, but it seems they are only for people who don't even have to ask "how much". It doesn't seem like many of those people would be driving a P-32.
If it wasn't for China are these the prices we'd pay for every thing?
I have the original plastic Rotten Green Switch in mine 7 1/2 years old now, I have a spare and hope the old one gives a little warning before it goes completely out.

[Lmar1]

Originally Posted by Lmar1

99 Rexhall M/H, P-32 workhorse chassis. Auto Park light came on. GM Dealer replaced pressure switch. Started home from dealer, light came back on, Auto Park engaged at 35 mph. Noise and smoke and bad smell!!! Called dealer he put fluid in and had me drive M/H 2 miles back to shop. New switch leaked! I think I now understand how the system works. Engage park a 1200 # spring holds the brake on. Disengage park, the pressure switch starts the elect motor driven hydraulic pump, pressure overcomes the spring, brake is off. This is dangerous, there should be warnings all over the dash about this. I’ll never be comfortable driving this thing again. Can I just have the entire system removed and rely on the regular parking brake and wheel chocks? I’m told there is an expert on the system, goes by the name “old used bear”. Got this e-mail address off the forum oldusedbear@nwtec.com it’s not good anymore. Anyone have a current address for him?

I want to thank everyone for the great response my initial question. I really feel stupid for having owned class A's for 15 years and not knowing how the Auto Park system works. You gave me a real education. I got my MH back from the dealer today. The system appears to be working. They changed the green switch (2nd in 2 days) and the gray one. One big problem, the brake though engaged does not hold the MH even on a mild incline. They did not even test the system when the finished the job! It may just need an adjustment or new shoes. It’s going back Monday! I need a little more education; how do you adjust the brake? I’ve looked at the brake and I see a lever with a 4 inch spring attached. The other end of the lever has a turnbuckle. It appears that it should to be turned counter clockwise (shortened) to move shoes closer to the drum. Are there any written instructions on how to adjust the brake? The GM dealer doesn’t have a clue on anything dealing with this system! I’ve told the dealer I’m going to sit and watch the tech this time.

[Brazel's RV Performance]

If the repair shop is willing to, have them call and speak with one of our technicians and they can make sure they get your park brake operating properly! 877-786-1576

[max49]

Originally Posted by JonBrazel

If the repair shop is willing to, have them call and speak with one of our technicians and they can make sure they get your park brake operating properly! 877-786-1576

I'm sorry but this is another example of this forum on autopark questions. Any other topic gets plenty of advice that the reader can weigh and filter, but when it comes to autopark, "email OUB" because it's not public info, I guess. It would be nice if we were learning here and don't waste the experts time , every time there's a small problem. You know , buy a man a fish, he eats a meal, teach him to fish; well we know the rest.

He already got his MH back from a shop and his brake does'nt hold, would'nt it be more helpful and cheaper to tell him what needs to be done to fix his brake right here on the forum, rather than take your mechanics time to talk to his mechanic, to tell him how to do the job he is charging the customer for?

[Brazel's RV Performance]

Sorry, I didn't mean to strum a wrong chord for you Max

[Alan Sanders]

Here are the instructions for adjustment of the shoes from Workhorse.

https://www.brazelsrv.com/old_site/PDF_Files/Park%20Brake%20Adj.pdf

These are for the service tech at your repair shop. As Jon was implying, I do not recommend that this be done by anyone that does not have access to the proper place and tools to safely work on these parts, you are working on the "Park Brake" (this is what keeps your coach from running you over). Even using wheel chocks if you are not on level ground don't always work as you would expect.

I strongly feel that these shoes will need to be replaced, especially if the park brake locked on you in motion at all.

[iRV4FUN]

If I read the OP the replacement switch failed almost immediately after installing it. This is the problem with the original pressure switches. Very unreliable!

Now someone has taken the time to find a switch that fix’s a major source of our Auto brake problems. Should he get paid for that solution – “H@11 YES”!!! So let’s say he makes a profit of ~ $300 FOR TWO SWITCHES THAT SOLVE A MAJOR PROBLEM. Is that a fair profit? Well it is until someone else comes up with a similar solution for less. Also consider the fact that this is probably a one time sale. Not much repeat business. Thanks Brazelsrv

[tropical36]

Originally Posted by Lmar1

I want to thank everyone for the great response my initial question. I really feel stupid for having owned class A's for 15 years and not knowing how the Auto Park system works. You gave me a real education. I got my MH back from the dealer today. The system appears to be working. They changed the green switch (2nd in 2 days) and the gray one. One big problem, the brake though engaged does not hold the MH even on a mild incline. They did not even test the system when the finished the job! It may just need an adjustment or new shoes. It’s going back Monday! I need a little more education; how do you adjust the brake? I’ve looked at the brake and I see a lever with a 4 inch spring attached. The other end of the lever has a turnbuckle. It appears that it should to be turned counter clockwise (shortened) to move shoes closer to the drum. Are there any written instructions on how to adjust the brake? The GM dealer doesn’t have a clue on anything dealing with this system! I’ve told the dealer I’m going to sit and watch the tech this time.

It's a drum brake and adjusts like any other by placing the proper tool or a screw driver in the back plate slot and moving the gear wheel up or down. You can make it tight, then back off a couple of turns or do it right and disconnect the drive shaft so that you can feel the drag. Just make sure the coach wheels are blocked big time so there's no change of a roll. I would like my jacks down as well if it were me. More room to work if nothing else.