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Old 06-28-2018, 05:01 PM   #1
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Auto Park Problem

My coach will not move. Parking brake is on.
Here is some information on how the Auto parking system is acting.
1) With the ignition OFF no lights are lit on the dash.
2) Ignition ON. In Park position:
Brake lamp is lit. Auto Park lamp is NOT.
3) Ignition ON - In Drive position:
Auto Park lamp is lit.
Brake lamp is lit
Pump is running continuously
4) Engine running in Park position:
Brake lamp is lit. Auto Park lamp is Not
Pump is NOT running
5) Engine running in Drive Position:
Auto Park lamp is lit
Brake lamp is lit
Pump is running continuously
Coach will not move

I will forward this information to "Old Used Bear" (Roger Haag) and Jon Brazel also.

Any help would be appreciated.
Lynn
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Old 06-28-2018, 05:38 PM   #2
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Roger's website has troubleshooting steps to help identify which component isn't working for you.
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Old 06-28-2018, 06:35 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
Roger's website has troubleshooting steps to help identify which component isn't working for you.
Thank You,
I will check that out but it might have the same info Roger provided me with when I had a Problem in 2015. My new dilemma is different.
I also got a response back from Alan via Ultra RV asking for Vin.
I am extremely fortunate the MH is safe and sound in my driveway. That is where it failed last night when I tried to move it so my wife could mow the lawn next to it.
Regards,
Lynn
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Old 06-29-2018, 12:43 AM   #4
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Have you checked the fluid reservoir level for the automatic parking brake?
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:48 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Isaac-1 View Post
Have you checked the fluid reservoir level for the automatic parking brake?
Yes, full and clean.

For everyone's information, I have changed the pump pressure switch. (Aka: RGS) No difference.
Lynn
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Old 06-29-2018, 11:59 AM   #6
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How long was it sitting before you tried to move it? Is it possible the brake is rusted to the shaft?
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:22 PM   #7
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How long was it sitting before you tried to move it? Is it possible the brake is rusted to the shaft?
2 days.
Last weekend traveled 120 miles with no issues.
Have moved MH twice since Sunday. No problems.
Lynn
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Old 06-30-2018, 04:40 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Isaac-1 View Post
Have you checked the fluid reservoir level for the automatic parking brake?
I have to eat some humble pie on this one. I had glanced at the reservoir and the fluid level looked fine. At a quick glance you couldn't see what would be dark fluid.
Last night at the suggestion of Alan Sanders from Ultra RV I disconnected the pump motor solenoid next to the pump to test the voltage. After disconnecting the connector I was having difficulty seeing the connector which is buried somewhat under the pump. My son had just stopped over and asked if I needed a hand. I asked him to hold a light down where the pump and connector are. I happened to look at the pump reservoir and I said, "Wait a minute". The reservoir did indeed look low on fluid.
I did the voltage check Alan had suggested and all checked out OK. I then brought out a quart of Dexron fluid and filled the reservoir. Next I jumped into the driver's seat, turned the ignition on and put the shift selector in drive. The pump ran, the lights came on as they normally do then the lights went off when the pump stopped running. I shifted back to park, started the engine, shifted into drive, the Auto Park cycled normally and the coach moved.
I moved the coach over to where the driveway was dry, parked it and looked for evidence of fluid on the driveway where the coach had been parked. We have had some heavy rains and there was a water puddle under the coach just about where the pump lines and actuator are. I can't see any sign of fluid having leaked anywhere. I crawled under the coach and everything underneath is as dry as normal.
The reservoir is stained somewhat from 16 years of having fluid in it. The level did look OK until a bright light showed differently. I have marked the level the fluid is at now so I can keep a close check of the level.
I want to have a better look at the underside so today I will go down to my shop and bring home 4 heavy duty jack stands so I can raise the coach and crawl under it safely. If there is a leak I want to pinpoint it and repair it ASAP. There is a cover under the coach which I have had off before when I had a RGS fail and I replaced both pressure switches on the AP system as a precaution. I will pull this cover off and get a good look at the switch and actuator.
I will take short drives and keep a close check on the fluid level often before heading out on longer jaunts. With the fluid running 1600# plus pressure when the brake is released even a small leak should show up quickly. Dexron ATF doesn't just evaporate. A close look at the rear of the coach and the mudflap doesn't show any sign of fluid stains either. Last weekend we had driven 60 miles down and 60 miles back on the Interstate so if there was a leak it seems like I should see some sign of it.
I will keep everyone posted on the outcome.
I also want to thank everyone who responded to my post and especially Alan Sanders from Ultra RV for his timely help. There is no doubt where I will buy my new Koni shocks when I get ready to install them.
Lynn
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Old 06-30-2018, 08:36 AM   #9
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Autopark help from oldusedbear

I'm available for autopark help at rhaag11@charter.net
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Old 06-30-2018, 10:19 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by oldusedbear View Post
I'm available for autopark help at rhaag11@charter.net
Thanks Roger. I did send an E-Mail.
Hopefully things are OK now. I have filled the reservoir, marked the level and have cycled the shift lever several times from park to drive letting it sit for about 30 seconds each cycle in drive.
Now the MH is running in my driveway in drive position at an idle. I have the wheels chocked and I put a pintle hitch in the MH receiver, attached a heavy duty tow chain to the drawbar on my big 4 WD tractor locked in park with the bucket down. Nothing is going anywhere.
I have been checking the fluid level and for any sign of a leak. Fluid is still to the line I drew and nothing shows under the MY. I have a refrigerator shipping box spread out under the MH to spot oil drops easier. So far it has remained dry.
I have never heard the pump run while driving which would indicate a leak in the system which would cause a pressure drop or loss. I wish I could account for the fluid loss.
Having the system work is one thing. Why it failed is another.
Lynn
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Old 07-01-2018, 01:47 PM   #11
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Auto Park Follow UP

Hopefully I am writing the final chapter to this saga.
I did my test yesterday running the engine with the transmission in drive with the wheels chocked and the coach tied to my tractor. After I shut the engine off and placed the shift selector in park I looked under the MH. I could see a couple drops of oily fluid on the cardboard I had placed under the unit where the Auto park actuator etc. is mounted. There is a heat shield attached to the actuator mounting bracket which is just above the R H Catalytic converter. There were a few drops of fluid on the shield.
With the outside temperature at 98 deg. here,no breeze and the cat hot from the engine running I decided to wait until this morning to investigate further. This morning I raised the MH with the levelers, placed jack stands under the frame and removed the heat shield. The upper side of the shield was covered with fluid. The actuator had a few traces of fluid on it but when I focused in on the AP light switch I could see it was saturated with fluid. I removed the switch and found a hole in the side of the switch which revealed part of an electrical contact inside the switch. Holding the switch in my hand fluid ran out the hole. I carry spare switches for the RGS and the light switch as I know these are common failure points in the J-71 system. After a good clean up I installed a new AC Delco brown switch. Part #15034355. When I tried insert the wiring connector the connector wouldn't lock into place. After several attempts I removed the new switch to have a closer look at the switch.
I made a landmark discovery you might want to make a note of. The switch I installed did not have a lock tab on it which the wiring connector would engage and lock into place preventing the connector from coming loose from the switch. Instead of having 1 tab on the flat part of the opening where the connector inserts there is a tab on the rounded ends. This switch would replace the pump pressure switch on the AP pump. So much as for the brown and green switches being interchangeable. The connectors will connect but they can and probably will come out or become loose and arc from not having a sound connection.
In my collection of new spare switches I had a Gray Switch. AC Delco part #12018778. This switch has the tab where I needed it. I installed the switch and the connector went into place and locked properly.
Bear in mind some of these switches are also used as power steering pressure switches on certain models of GM cars. These switches will operate at a certain pressure to change the idle speed of a vehicle which someone may be trying to park at a slow engine speed. The computer gets a signal from the switch, and increases the idle speed to give the Power steering pump more pressure output to assist the steering effort. All these switches operate within the same pressure range.
Now I can reduce my inventory down to one switch of each connector design.
With the new Gray Switch installed I cleaned any fluid residue and installed the heat shield with two of the bolts. I checked the fluid level and prepared for a road test.
Success!
After a 10 mile road test I jacked the MH up once again and placed the stands under it. After waiting a few minutes for everything to cool down a bit I removed the heat shield for one more look. There is no sign of fluid anywhere under the coach. I reinstalled the shield with all 5 bolts, Picked up all the tools I had out and let the coach down. One more fluid check. Right on the line.
A quick trip back to my original post:
When I first checked the system I made note when the ign. was on in park the auto park lamp was not lit. The brake warning lamp was lit. In drive position the Auto Park lamp was lit as well as the brake warning lamp. This was in my original post.
Now with the switch replaced Both the Auto Park lamp and the brake lamp are lit with the Ign. on in park.
I am confident I can head out and not worry about the AP brake giving me problems for a while.
The End!
Lynn
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Old 07-01-2018, 02:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LETMGROW View Post
Hopefully I am writing the final chapter to this saga.
I did my test yesterday running the engine with the transmission in drive with the wheels chocked and the coach tied to my tractor. After I shut the engine off and placed the shift selector in park I looked under the MH. I could see a couple drops of oily fluid on the cardboard I had placed under the unit where the Auto park actuator etc. is mounted. There is a heat shield attached to the actuator mounting bracket which is just above the R H Catalytic converter. There were a few drops of fluid on the shield.
With the outside temperature at 98 deg. here,no breeze and the cat hot from the engine running I decided to wait until this morning to investigate further. This morning I raised the MH with the levelers, placed jack stands under the frame and removed the heat shield. The upper side of the shield was covered with fluid. The actuator had a few traces of fluid on it but when I focused in on the AP light switch I could see it was saturated with fluid. I removed the switch and found a hole in the side of the switch which revealed part of an electrical contact inside the switch. Holding the switch in my hand fluid ran out the hole. I carry spare switches for the RGS and the light switch as I know these are common failure points in the J-71 system. After a good clean up I installed a new AC Delco brown switch. Part #15034355. When I tried insert the wiring connector the connector wouldn't lock into place. After several attempts I removed the new switch to have a closer look at the switch.
I made a landmark discovery you might want to make a note of. The switch I installed did not have a lock tab on it which the wiring connector would engage and lock into place preventing the connector from coming loose from the switch. Instead of having 1 tab on the flat part of the opening where the connector inserts there is a tab on the rounded ends. This switch would replace the pump pressure switch on the AP pump. So much as for the brown and green switches being interchangeable. The connectors will connect but they can and probably will come out or become loose and arc from not having a sound connection.
In my collection of new spare switches I had a Gray Switch. AC Delco part #12018778. This switch has the tab where I needed it. I installed the switch and the connector went into place and locked properly.
Bear in mind some of these switches are also used as power steering pressure switches on certain models of GM cars. These switches will operate at a certain pressure to change the idle speed of a vehicle which someone may be trying to park at a slow engine speed. The computer gets a signal from the switch, and increases the idle speed to give the Power steering pump more pressure output to assist the steering effort. All these switches operate within the same pressure range.
Now I can reduce my inventory down to one switch of each connector design.
With the new Gray Switch installed I cleaned any fluid residue and installed the heat shield with two of the bolts. I checked the fluid level and prepared for a road test.
Success!
After a 10 mile road test I jacked the MH up once again and placed the stands under it. After waiting a few minutes for everything to cool down a bit I removed the heat shield for one more look. There is no sign of fluid anywhere under the coach. I reinstalled the shield with all 5 bolts, Picked up all the tools I had out and let the coach down. One more fluid check. Right on the line.
A quick trip back to my original post:
When I first checked the system I made note when the ign. was on in park the auto park lamp was not lit. The brake warning lamp was lit. In drive position the Auto Park lamp was lit as well as the brake warning lamp. This was in my original post.
Now with the switch replaced Both the Auto Park lamp and the brake lamp are lit with the Ign. on in park.
I am confident I can head out and not worry about the AP brake giving me problems for a while.
The End!
Lynn
Nice conclusion, with new info for people with this chassis. Good job!
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Old 07-02-2018, 08:26 AM   #13
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Thanks for the feedback.
I thought the grey sw (12018778) was a 450psi switch to turn the light on/off and is located near the actuator.
And the interchangeable green (15961566) or brown (15034355) switch is 1200 psi switch to turn the pump on/off and located near the pump.

This might explain the connector keying issue you saw.

I'll compare my spare parts later in the week.
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:44 PM   #14
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Thanks for the feedback.
I thought the grey sw (12018778) was a 450psi switch to turn the light on/off and is located near the actuator.
And the interchangeable green (15961566) or brown (15034355) switch is 1200 psi switch to turn the pump on/off and located near the pump.

This might explain the connector keying issue you saw.

I'll compare my spare parts later in the week.
You Sir are absolutely correct. I guess I got tired and a little mixed up after typing with one finger for so long to get my resolution to this problem out there.
I wish the EDIT option didn't shut down so quickly on this forum.
Anyone with a coach with the J 71 APB system should make a note of this in case they ever have a problem or even better yet order the updated switches from Ultra RV and be done with the issue for good which is what I intend to do next.
Thank You for the clarification.
Lynn
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