Banks Powerpack and O2 sensor fault

[Phantomiz]

Hello,
Installed the Banks Powerpack system in Oct/11. Went for a 30 mile test drive after the installation. Everything ok no problems or leaks.
Left for my winter vacation in Dec and two DTC codes came up.

P0131 and P0134

Did a quick search online to find that this was the problem:

P0131 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0134 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 1

I had to remove and re-install the O2 sensors when I did the installation. Added anti seaze to the threads and re-installed. It may be possible that I got a little on the sensor, but not likely as I was very careful with applying this messy stuff.

My question is: what side is the Bank 1 Sensor 1 located? I have checked a little online and found that it "could" be on the driver's side, "but not always".

Any or all info once again would be appreciated.

PhanTomIz

I'm currently away in the South with my Moho and have a few basic tools. BTW I did use a high temperature sealant on the headers and allowed 4 or 5 days of cure time. Basically, I installed the headers first and got to the rest of the exhaust system later on in the week...

Overall impression of the system is slight increase in power and less downshifting on small hills. Don't think there is much of a fuel economy increase as of yet, but this may be due to a possible bad O2 sensor...

[LonBoy]

Did you say you put something on the threads of the O2 Sensor ?that might have messed up your sensor everything Ive ever read, says dont do it , the sensor can go bad. because of it.

[JonBrazel]

This is a common problem with adding the Banks TorqueTubes, as it moves the sensors' locations rearward a considerable amount. The Mass Air Flow sensor needs to be recalibrated which can only be done with UltraPower Programming. Bank 1 is drivers side. If you don't recalibrate, you run the risk of continually going thru O2 sensors.

[Mr_D]

On our ISC the new Banks wiring loom was bad. They sent a new one and since then no problems.

I know, entirely different engine but still a possibility for any modification.

[mr300ce]

The 02 has 2 parts. The sensor reading the oxygen content of the exhaust, and the heating element inside it, to warm it up quickly on cold starts. Your code was for the 'heater', so replacing the 02 is called for.

I do not believe the thread anti-seize, or silicone adhesive had anything to do with its failure. They are somewhat delicate parts, and sometimes just removing and replacing one will cause a failure, usually not right away.

[JimM68]

I can cheerfullly recommend (though firsthand experience) Jon Brazel's company and products, as well as their knowledge with the F53.

[Mr_D]

I may be headed up there in Jan for a front end alignment rather than going to Hendersons.

[Jeff H]

Time for 2 O2 sensors. We did ours last Spring, 2006 w/45K.

[JonBrazel]

I'm not going to lie, even though our name doesn't indicate it we have a pretty amazing alignment tech in Joe "Griff"...

[Phantomiz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonBrazel This is a common problem with adding the Banks TorqueTubes, as it moves the sensors' locations rearward a considerable amount. The Mass Air Flow sensor needs to be recalibrated which can only be done with UltraPower Programming. Bank 1 is drivers side. If you don't recalibrate, you run the risk of continually going thru O2 sensors.

Thanks for the reply. If I remember correctly, the sensors are in the same location. Maybe 1" closer for driver's side and 1" further for passenger side from the original location...

BTW, the reason for adding the Banks system was not for horsepower or other drivability gains, but rather to fix a 5 year ongoing problem with broken manifold studs. My dealer did the studs 2 times and would have needed to do it again. At roughly $1200 for labor, parts, fuel and my time(free), I decided to get rid of the manifolds and go with torque tubes.
While removing the driver's side manifold, I noticed two studs that weren't broken, they were loose. They didn't bother to install helicoils. I think the problem is not with the dealer but rather the two so called tradesmen doing the manifold job and for some reason the service manager turns a blind eye. Might be because the dealer feels they can't find anyone to do the job for the same low wage...Sorry for getting a little off topic, but a little background was needed...

[Phantomiz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr300ce The 02 has 2 parts. The sensor reading the oxygen content of the exhaust, and the heating element inside it, to warm it up quickly on cold starts. Your code was for the 'heater', so replacing the 02 is called for. I do not believe the thread anti-seize, or silicone adhesive had anything to do with its failure. They are somewhat delicate parts, and sometimes just removing and replacing one will cause a failure, usually not right away.

If the sealant has silicone, it would have cured by the time I re-installed the sensors..
They were difficult to remove and the threads did get a little messed up. I used a propane torch for about 5 minutes with loosen oil and backed them out. I thought it was going to be next to impossible as they were fairly rusted. I ran my box cutter along the threads to clean them out. This took quite some time, but proved to be the answer for re-installing...

[Phantomiz]

Another few questions, if I don't replace this bad O2 sensor before leaving on my return trip of 1500 miles, will I risk damaging other components in the exhaust system? Like the catalytic converters? I did notice some black soot in the tailpipe, but I believe this soot to be the same as with my OEM dual exhaust.

I leave for home on Dec 4, where would be the best place to pick up another sensor? No GM dealership close to where I am. Any automotive parts stores keep these in stock?

Anyone have a part number handy for this O2 sensor?

Thanks for all your help
PhanTomIz

[Dunner]

If the high temp sealant didn't say "sensor" safe, that could have caused the O2 sensor to go bad. I always use the Ultra Copper Sensor Safe stuff.

[Phantomiz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dunner If the high temp sealant didn't say "sensor" safe, that could have caused the O2 sensor to go bad. I always use the Ultra Copper Sensor Safe stuff.

I used the Permatex Ultra Copper sealant sensor safe which is more expensive. I didn't even think of the possible problems a non safe sealant could have.

Then again, why one sensor and not both???