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Old 07-09-2008, 09:52 AM   #1
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Seems that some places use a machine, others drain and refill, one said it depends on getting to the radiator hoses to be able to use the machine.

So what is the best way?

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Old 07-09-2008, 09:52 AM   #2
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Seems that some places use a machine, others drain and refill, one said it depends on getting to the radiator hoses to be able to use the machine.

So what is the best way?

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Old 07-09-2008, 11:56 AM   #3
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Check Oemy's web site or use the find button. There is a thread on this a few post down.

Richard
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Old 07-09-2008, 12:38 PM   #4
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Oemy's Website
Oemy's Coolant Change Instructions
http://oemys-performance.com/techtips.htm#coolant
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:47 PM   #5
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#1 way - Get someone else to do it.
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Old 07-09-2008, 05:02 PM   #6
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Dale, thats exactly what I want to do, let some one else do it. What I'm concerned about is getting all the old coolant out. Not sure if a machine will do it.
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Old 07-09-2008, 07:49 PM   #7
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Al,

The only way is to power flush the system, including the heater core. Many of the shops use a machine to do the exchange.... but that's all they do is "exchange" the old coolant for new. My way you flush the system until the water runs clear... that means you have "all" the old coolant out and any loose scale etc, including the heater core.
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:23 AM   #8
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haven't done this on the MH yet but what I do with my cars is drain the radiator and the block. I have enough distilled water to do two flushes with draining of the block and radiators in between. I guess it would be possible to do a couple flushes with tap water before the distilled. My goal is to use distilled water instead of tap water for my 50/50 mix. when I add the coolant after my last flush drain, I am assured of any water remaing in the block to be distilled.
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Old 07-28-2008, 03:55 PM   #9
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I'm also about to change the coolant, and want to use the "oemtech" method. My problem is I'm not sure which hose to put the Tee in. I have a W22 chassis and the only water hoses I can see go to the heater. One goes to the top of the radiator, and the other one goes/comes from the top of the engine block. It seems like the one connecting to the top of the block is the one the Tee should go in. The other looks too close to the filler cap location - would the water just flush right out the cap instead of going through the engine first?

Anyway, any suggestions are welcome. Thanks,

rod
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:38 PM   #10
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Rod,

Not all coaches are "plumbed" the same. I would use the line that goes to the block. You may have to pinch the other line to force the water through the block, out via the lower radiator hose, trough the radiator and out the filler to the bucket.
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Old 07-31-2008, 01:27 PM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by oemtech:
Not all coaches are "plumbed" the same. I would use the line that goes to the block. You may have to pinch the other line to force the water through the block, out via the lower radiator hose, trough the radiator and out the filler to the bucket. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
That worked. Was a snap. Old coolant gone, new in, new cap. No leaks. Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-01-2008, 11:40 AM   #12
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Dale, got some questions

The flushing kit instructions say to run the engine when flushing with the hose. Your inst didn't say to run the engine, Did you run the engine while flushing?

The heater hoses. One comes off the water pump like the kit says and the other one goes to the top of the tank on the side of the radiator. Looks like the transmission cooling lines go to the same tank. Seems strange but I guess thats the way it works, hope I'm not missing something.

Thanks
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Old 08-01-2008, 02:23 PM   #13
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Al,

As I said in a previous post, "All coaches are not plumbed the same."

No, do not run the engine. I want the thermostat to stay closed, This will force the water to back flush the block and the radiator.

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