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03-28-2009, 08:42 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lake Placid Fl.
Posts: 23
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Has anyone in the group bled (changedthe brake fluid on a W24 chassis? Since the brake system is different, can the same method using the gravity system be used as decribed in the brake bleeding thread, for W22 chassis?
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Arlin & Norma
2005 Holiday Rambler Endeavor
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03-28-2009, 10:31 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Commercial Member
Newmar Owners Club Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 3,792
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No different than th W22 or a car... just bigger parts!
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Dale/aka-Oemy Oemy's UltraPower Performance
Ultra Power'd/Ultra Trac'd/Magnum Plug Wires/AC 41-101's/DIY CAI/Koni's
2004 Mountain Aire MACA 3651-1997 Honda CRV - Toad
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04-03-2009, 08:18 AM
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#3
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Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Butler, PA
Posts: 92
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av42,
I too have an '05 W24 (w 26K miles) and was wondering about the same thing recently. I checked the fluid for clarity and color, and although I thought I would change it now, it looks like new to me...does yours have a dark color, sediment or give any indication it needs changing? Others with a different system seem to change annually.
Gene
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2005 Suncruiser 37B W24 MH2100 Allison 8.1L
currently no toad
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04-03-2009, 08:44 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Between Colorado Springs, CO & Fulton, TX
Posts: 1,429
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I really must ask the question why with regards to Workhorse Chassis' many folks think it's necessary to change the brake fluid as if it were gear lube or something? There are millions of motorhome and truck chassis' out there that may never see a brake fluid change in 100's of thousands of miles.
I'm not trying to start a big discussion on this, I just don't see the need. Granted if you've had or are having problems with regards to the "brake fluid" then it makes sense, but just to be changing it because you might think there's a problem, doesn't make sense either, at least not to me.
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Bob 2006 Monaco Camelot 40PDQ
US Navy Carrier Battlegroup 1959/1963
Summer in Colorado, Winter Texas Gulf Coast
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04-03-2009, 10:37 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob (WA0MQE)
I really must ask the question why with regards to Workhorse Chassis' many folks think it's necessary to change the brake fluid as if it were gear lube or something? There are millions of motorhome and truck chassis' out there that may never see a brake fluid change in 100's of thousands of miles.
I'm not trying to start a big discussion on this, I just don't see the need. Granted if you've had or are having problems with regards to the "brake fluid" then it makes sense, but just to be changing it because you might think there's a problem, doesn't make sense either, at least not to me.
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Im with you and so are alot of folks. This was given as one of the many reasons we had brake failures by acouple of folks. After my second failure(only 4-6 weeks after)I had a third failure. Did it do me any good.No, But !2 months later I did another just recently just to cover my but in case wh said we have to. Nhtsa is supposed to be coming out with a answer to our brake problems soon and I could be wrong but those excuses wont be the reason for the issue. Just my opinion.
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2004 adventurer/22.5 workhorse....
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04-03-2009, 12:12 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Commercial Member
Newmar Owners Club Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 3,792
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I flush and bleed my brakes every year on the motorhome. It is necessary? Probably not. But, do to usage or non-usage, the potential high heat (boil the fluid), low cost ($3.50 qt and 1 hour of my time) it is cheap maintenance.
Here is a photo of 1 year old fluid compared to new. Is it good/serviceable? Only way to tell is have it tested.
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Dale/aka-Oemy Oemy's UltraPower Performance
Ultra Power'd/Ultra Trac'd/Magnum Plug Wires/AC 41-101's/DIY CAI/Koni's
2004 Mountain Aire MACA 3651-1997 Honda CRV - Toad
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04-06-2009, 08:32 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lake Placid Fl.
Posts: 23
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mygrayhound
In response to your question, yes my brake fluid is a dark color, like the picture that omtech posted above of 1 year old brake fluid. The coach has 43K on it and a lot mountain driving in the west and Alaska over the last 3 years. I think I should change as, preventive maintenance.
av42
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Arlin & Norma
2005 Holiday Rambler Endeavor
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04-06-2009, 08:55 PM
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#8
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Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Butler, PA
Posts: 92
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av42:
I'd probably change it too as it seems from Oemy's pics that it would be contaminated. Mine at 27k miles still looks like the "new" color-so I'll wait awhile for my first change I guess. Maybe it's because I don't tow?
Gene
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2005 Suncruiser 37B W24 MH2100 Allison 8.1L
currently no toad
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04-06-2009, 09:09 PM
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#9
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iRV2 Marketing
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 20,567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mygrayhound
Maybe it's because I don't tow?
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Gene, The brake fluid changing color has nothing to do with loading. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and as such it absorbs moisture like a sponge. When the fluid has had enough exposure to moisture over time the fluid will change color. Contaminated fluid looses its effectiveness depending on the percentage of contamination all the way to the point where it becomes ineffective.
Brake fluid should always be the same color as it was when it came out of its original container when it was new.
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03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Allison UP Grade Brake, S&B CAI, Taylor Extremes, SGII-X Gauge
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
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04-09-2009, 07:56 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: San Jose CA
Posts: 122
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DriVer is right on the money.
I have been in the auto / truck repair business for over 30 years. Changing brake fluid and using the mfg. recommended fluid from a new, sealed container (foil seal under screw on cap) is one of the most cost effective and safety smart things that you can do for your car, truck, and motor home.
As brake fluid absorbs moisture it is not only corrosive to metal parts but it also will boil under severe conditions and may cause the brakes to fail (pedal going to the floor).
Gravity bleeding is a perfectly acceptable method to replace brake fluid when pressure or vacuum bleeders are not available.
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Jim
2007 Winnebago Voyage 35L, W24
Retired and Having Fun
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04-09-2009, 08:16 PM
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#11
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Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Butler, PA
Posts: 92
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DriVer
So, do you think just keep an eye on the color throughout this year? I forget if my workhorse owners manual suggests a specific mileage figure for changing a W24's fluid...
Thanks
Gene
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2005 Suncruiser 37B W24 MH2100 Allison 8.1L
currently no toad
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04-09-2009, 09:04 PM
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#12
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iRV2 Marketing
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 20,567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mygrayhound
DriVer
So, do you think just keep an eye on the color throughout this year?
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Gene, Recover the brake fluid in a bottle at the bleeder. Once in a clear container observe the color vs a sample in another clear bottle. The color should be as close as possible to the new fluid.
Please don't forget to replace what came out of the master cylinder.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Allison UP Grade Brake, S&B CAI, Taylor Extremes, SGII-X Gauge
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
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04-10-2009, 08:20 AM
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#13
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Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Butler, PA
Posts: 92
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Thanks for the tip DriVer-next time under there I'll do that.
Gene
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2005 Suncruiser 37B W24 MH2100 Allison 8.1L
currently no toad
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04-14-2009, 03:02 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lake Placid Fl.
Posts: 23
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Just completed changing brake fluid with gravity process on the W24. The pictures oemtech provided above were perfect example of the fluid condition that was removed from master clyinder and the diluted coming out of the calipers. I started with 3 quarts of new fluid and used just about all in th bleeding process to get it to run clear close to new color.
Thanks for the advice and coments.
av42
__________________
Arlin & Norma
2005 Holiday Rambler Endeavor
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