Community Forums

M&EM · 07-06-2006, 06:36 AM

My ABS light would come on sometimes and stay on after backing up like into a camp site. Other times the light would just not go off until driven forward several hundred feet. The ABS also would come on with fast accellearation from a stand still or going up a steep hill. This was resolved by myself and appeared due to low brake fluid level being sensed in the resevoir. Adding almost a quart of fluid resolved this.

tnoel · 07-06-2006, 07:11 AM

Sorry I Mentioned it in my first post, but I finally figured out how to use a signature. Looks like it updated my previous posts as well.
Thanks

DriVer · 07-06-2006, 11:36 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by tnoel:
.... when I let off it is smooth again. The gravel road feeling was constant just before we noticed the smell of burning brakes. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>It's very difficult to translate that perception since I haven't experienced that on my brakes. There could be a number of issues and stuck caliper could present a pull on the steering wheel or a bad vibration and a decrease in forward speed. The brake smell and localized heating will present itself if these conditions exist.

The best advice is to have you brakes serviced by a Workhorse service center assuring that there isn't any rotor damage or caliper slide failure.

In my previous post I wrote about using the motorhome and if it sits for any extended time these issues are going to present themselves. Depending on your driving style a lot of these issues may be involuntarily induced depending on how you use your motorhome.

Normally an ABS sensor will show a fault on the IP cluster in the form of a lamp. A Tech II test instrument will definitely pick up a bad ABS wheel sensor if one exists.

Don and Kim · 07-06-2006, 01:03 PM

I checked my vin # and my 10th digit is a 3 so does that mean I have the newer style calipers? Thanks,Don

DriVer · 07-06-2006, 02:36 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Don and Kim:
I checked my vin # and my 10th digit is a 3 so does that mean I have the newer style calipers? Thanks,Don </div></BLOCKQUOTE>There were only very few "3"s that had the older style brake calipers.

My chassis was built on "12-9-2002" so anything after that should definately be good to go.

Don and Kim · 07-06-2006, 05:16 PM

I believe ours was made 2/03 so I assume we're ok. Is there a way to tell the difference between the 2 different styles by looking at the backside of the caliper?

DriVer · 07-06-2006, 06:07 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Don and Kim:
I believe ours was made 2/03 </div></BLOCKQUOTE>The chassis build on date is the best indicator. I'll have to find out about the physical differences between the back of the 2 calipers.

tnoel · 07-07-2006, 07:03 AM

I talked to the service writer yesterday for an update on my brake problem. They will be replacing both front calipers and at least one rotor. I think they are going to try to turn the other one, I'm trying to convince them they should just replace them both. They are charging me to pull the rear wheels to inspect the rear brakes.

BTW overnight shipping from Chicago apparently means overnight from when they feel like sending them out. Parts may arrive Monday. To try and salvage a small bit of vacation, I'm off for a couple of days in a motel room at the beautiful Oregon Coast.

Thanks for all of your great input, Tom

DriVer · 07-07-2006, 09:47 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Don and Kim:
Is there a way to tell the difference between the 2 different styles by looking at the backside of the caliper? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Don & Kim, The differences are in the pins. ZOPS had a course thread pin bolt (M12x1.75x30) whereas the improved ZOH-T had a fine thread pin bolt (M12x1.25x40)

The unit (caliper) must be disassembled to determine the difference.

JCM · 07-07-2006, 10:26 AM

Don't let them replace 1 rotor or 1 set of brake shoes. Both "ends" of the axle shoud have the SAME parts ie. new.
Lathing or turning a rotor is poor because it makes the rotor even thinner). The labor for re and re is already done - it is just the cost of parts.
Pay for them if you have too.
***** a lot!

Logger · 08-09-2007, 11:33 AM

I'm not sure if anyone is still looking at this but I just had a double failure on my 35' Georgie Boy. 1st the left front failed and they replaced the rotors and Calipers on both wheel as well as the oil seals. When I got it back I made the trip to my home ~45miles and the rear caliper on the pasenger side went out and the ABA light came on. When I carried it back they replaced the ABS Computer modual, 2 Speed sensors and flushed the fluid. It seems to be ok now but it sure is scary losing the brakes on one of these RV's.
Does this seem to be a common failure on the Bosch Braking system. I had the Recall done in 2005

DriVer · 08-09-2007, 12:51 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Logger:
Does this seem to be a common failure on the Bosch Braking system. I had the Recall done in 2005 </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Logger, Sure do appreciate you coming in on the Workhorse Forum and joining up with us. The problems that you are telling us about do not affect the majority of motorhome owners out on the roads. Workhorse has been working very hard to get these types of brake problems behind them and I have even seen where an RSM has approved parts and the customer paid for labor well out or warranty.

I am thinking that you should be fine from this point forward and we'll be looking forward to reading about your RV'ing adventures whenever you care to share them with us.

Good luck and thanks for joining us - we know you have a choice.

Thudman · 08-09-2007, 01:51 PM

DriVer's statement:

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">There were only very few "3"s that had the older style brake calipers. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

My VIN has a 3 on the 10th digit. Does WH really KNOW what version of calipers I have (had)? Unfortunately I did not ask the repair ctr for the old calipers that they replaced last week. Is there some identification marking on the calipers? How can I determine (for sure) if I'm in (or not in) the ZOPS category? I've already asked WH & they said No. But I'm uncomfortable with the 3 in my VIN. And I've had two front (L&R) caliper problems. And an intermittent ABS lite.

Thudman

DriVer · 08-09-2007, 03:23 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Thudman:
.... But I'm uncomfortable with the 3 in my VIN. And I've had two front (L&R) caliper problems. And an intermittent ABS lite. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Ya wanna cut back on those ABs a little ya might over shoot the bogie!

Both you and I have a "3" as the 10th digit in our VIN# and I can assure you I have ZOHT brakes. Now if'n you want to send me the last 6 digits of your VIN# in PM, I'll look it up to make sure.