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03-31-2009, 07:24 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 158
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Brake caliper flare nut question
Last fall, as part of one of the typical reported caliper problems, I had a couple calipers and all four flexible brake lines replaced (among other odds and ends). Everything has gone ok since, but I have one nagging issue. At the flare nut where the flex line enters the caliper, I have brake fluid seepage on a couple of the calipers. It is enough to leave a drop on the driveway every day or two. It also causes the lower area of the caliper to rust like crazy.
I have an 11mm flare nut wrench, and I've tightened these nuts to the point where I'm afraid to tighten them more, for fear of stripping the threads. This has slowed the seepage, but it has not stopped it. These nuts are a shiny silver, not brass as I have seen on some cars. They do not corrode, so are they something like stainless steel that can take more aggressive tightening than "soft" flare nuts?
I keep telling myself that a bit of seepage could be good in that it brings fresh fluid into the caliper, but I can't quite convince myself! Besides, in my motorhome I have about 1 inch clearance above the master cylinder, so it is a major pain to check or add brake fluid!
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Gary Orwig
2014 Tiffin Allegro Open Road 34TGA
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03-31-2009, 08:16 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Roving, Datastorm users 3192
Posts: 755
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You should not have seepage. Though there is a low-fluid sensor, and that should save you from a "no fluid" stop (not a fun thing, trust me on that) you should not have seepage, seepage = poor workmanship by repair shop. Have 'em fix it
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Nothing adds excitement like something that is none of your business.
2005 Damon Intruder 377W Radio Active as WA8YXM
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04-01-2009, 12:09 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pikeville, NC
Posts: 1,775
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I'd tighten those bad boys as tight as I can get them-- I'd even consider using a little hammer pressure on the wrench.
If it's coming from the bleeder screws -----
I'd go to a Workhorse parts business and get a couple (maybe four) new bleeder screws. Have them in your hand and remove the old one and put in the new one immediately. Tighten them down good with a 6 point box wrench, or 6 point socket wrench. Top off the master cylinder. Wash everything off-- and wait and see. ------------
I see your using a flare nut wrench--I suggest using what I recommended on the bleeder screws.
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Max H,
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, 37', 3778, W-22, 8.1 Vortac, Ultra Power upgrade, CAI (cold air intake), Taylor wires, colder plugs, Koni shocks.
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04-01-2009, 05:12 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Northwestern Montana
Posts: 3,512
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Gary, the flare fitting on the flex line, and the female fitting on the caliper have seats, that must be clean, and free from scratches and debris of any kind. Try backing off the fitting a couple of rounds, let it drip a few drops of fluid, and then retighten. Sometimes this will cure the problem, If not, you will have to disconnect the line from the caliper and inspect both the line flare seat and the caliper seat. If you had these lines replaced at a business, and it is conveniently close, you may want to contact them about this leakage. Over tightening is not the answer, and could possibly damage the flare. You should be able to apply sufficient force to tighten the fitting with just the wrench you are using.
Dieselclacker
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Dieselclacker
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