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Old 11-19-2008, 10:31 AM   #43
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jdsr:
As far as I can tell there wasn't any difference between the two. My fluid was about one years old. But because its so easy and cheap to do I will cont to do it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>jdsr, Did you bleed your brakes at the calipers? I can't figure out how you pumped out the old fluid with an oil pump.

How did you restore the new fluid. Were the brakes bled at that time?
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Old 11-19-2008, 11:59 AM   #44
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jdsr:
As far as I can tell there wasn't any difference between the two. My fluid was about one years old. But because its so easy and cheap to do I will cont to do it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>jdsr, Did you bleed your brakes at the calipers? I can't figure out how you pumped out the old fluid with an oil pump.

How did you restore the new fluid. Were the brakes bled at that time? </div></BLOCKQUOTE> The oil pump I used is for changing the oil in cars thru the dipstike. I would never use it for that but thought it would work well for removing brake fluid from master cyl. I bought it at walmart. It looks like a bike air pump with 2 hoses on it. One hose which is about 3 ft long is used for siphon while the other is for discharge. I siphoned all the old brake fluid in a jug and replaced it with new brake fluid. I guess it took 6-10 pumps to remove the old fluid. I then started at pass/rear, caliper ,opened bleed valve , had clear tube attached and the other end of tube in a clear jug with about 2 inches of new fluid to start with and as the old fluid came out( which is alittle slow but not to bad)I would add fluid to master cyl. I was very attentive to making sure the master cyl was always full of fluid because of my fear of introducing air into system. I did each wheel the same way with the drivers/front being the last one I did. Im not sure if this was oemtech's idea but if it was it is a good one. Safe Travels
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Old 11-19-2008, 02:33 PM   #45
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jdsr: </div></BLOCKQUOTE>jdsr, Ya did good!
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Old 11-26-2008, 03:19 AM   #46
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So.. Has anyone come up with the correct part number for the appropriate " Speed Bleeders" for the W 20 (22) chassis?.. Sounds like a good product... Thanks ...rgr...
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Old 11-26-2008, 04:16 AM   #47
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Originally posted Nov. 8,2008<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I am working with Speedbleeder's to get the correct part #. As soon as I find out I will post the results. Heck I might ever order and carry them.

Dale </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Any progress with Speedbleeders? ED
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Old 11-26-2008, 04:24 AM   #48
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It's on the project list... I need to pull a bleeder screw out and get the specs... Anyone have one off a set of calipers that were replaced?
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Old 11-26-2008, 04:46 AM   #49
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Dale,

I think the bleeder thread is 1/4" NPT.

Notice I said "think". Maybe Brazel's can answer this question without opening up somebodys hydraulic system----------
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Old 11-26-2008, 05:26 AM   #50
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I have the four calipers off of my W20 brakes from last years' failure. Just removed one of the bleeder screws from one of the calipers. Now, I am not exactly certain what we're measuring here, but the threaded part of the valve, the part that actually screws into the caliper is 1/4" in deep. Also, the actual bleeder end that attaches to the brake line is 1/4" across.

Now that I've demonstrated my ignorance concerning brakes, maybe this info is what is needed.

Off subject a tad.......We've been cooking up a bunch of food to serve with the turkey tomorrow this morning. Less to do tomorrow. Boy, does it smell good around here. Lots of folks coming tomorrow. Wishin' you all a wonderful Thanksgiving.

Bob
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Old 11-26-2008, 09:02 AM   #51
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Bob

Drop in the mail and I will get the specs and update everyone.

Max,

They may be metric...
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Old 11-26-2008, 10:10 AM   #52
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Dale

I cannot get it in the mail today, so the first thing Friday morning it's on the way.

Bob
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Old 11-26-2008, 03:01 PM   #53
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by oemtech:
Bob

Drop in the mail and I will get the specs and update everyone.

Max,

They may be metric... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

How's this going Dale, I sure would love to install some of these speedbleeders on my unit.

EDIT: Sorry...just noticed the date on CoastieSCPO's post about sending these to you.
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Old 11-26-2008, 03:22 PM   #54
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As soon as I get the specs and get a set in to test and have some good results I will see if I can do group buy...
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Old 11-28-2008, 09:38 AM   #55
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Just completed my brake fluid change out. Used jdsr hand pump to remove old fluid from master cylinder res. and use it to fill. Had my 3qts. of new fluid. Started at rt.rear wheel. Had DW as a helper. Got to clear fluid, making sure res. remained full. Oh boy, did I have enough new fluid?? Had 3qts. on hand. That wheel will take the most fluid, the rest will require less. Used about 2 1/2qts. total. One thing I would suggest, replace the rubber caps on the bleeder valves. One of mine was missing. Tested brakes and all went well. Took about 3/4hr and appox. $25 worth of fluid and pump. I did make up new hoses for the pump to make it more easy to work with the pump. BTW, I have never had any problems with my brakes. No stress crakes in the discs and never any overheating. Have 45K on our HM. My removed fluid was a dark amber in color. No thick fluid in the master res.
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Old 11-30-2008, 03:50 AM   #56
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Hi BD

Glad it worked out well for you.

I feel better now for my next scheduled trip that the fluid has been changed.

I read in another thread that it was a messy job. I had no mess at all while using the tubes I described in the original thread. Worked good for me,
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