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Old 02-08-2013, 06:07 PM   #1
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Brake fluid flush W-22

I did my 2 year brake fluid flush/replace procedure today. I'm a little behind schedule at 2 1/2 years.


It's been some time since my last post on this subject (like 5 years ago) and I thought new pics might be appropiate for the many new folks we have on this forum. Clean brake fluid could help prevent "boil off" of hot brakes going down steep grades.


Some folks use electric pumps to evacuate the master cylinder. I just use a turkey baster with a piece of clear plastic tubing- 3/8" od x 1/4" id. Heat the tubing up a little and slide it into the business end of the turkey baster- it should stay put then.




The master cylinder reservoir



This amount of old brake fluid that came out of the master cylinder.



Now fill the master cylinder with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. The whole operation took right at 3 quarts.
Start on the right rear- It's the furthest from the master cylinder. You need to approach the rear wheels from the back end of the wheels.



Put a 11mm box end wrench on the bleeder port in a position to easily open/close the bleeder. Then force the 1/4" id plastic hose firmly on the round nipple of the bleeder. A warm day makes this plastic hose easy to work (it was 73 degrees here in Gulfport, MS today). Have your helper start the engine (don't forget to pull the jack alarm fuse to silence the alarm- F-15 in my case). Then have your helper pump the brakes and hold the pedal down- you now open the bleeder port until the brake pedal is on the floor. Close the bleeder port and have your helper release the brake pedal. We did this 4 times on each wheel until the fluid coming out was clear.


Then move to the left rear and repeat the process.



Here is the fluid removed from the two rear calipers



Then do the right front. You can get to front bleeders easily from the front side of the wheels. But alas, a problem now arises- A bracket that holds the flexible rubber brake hoses gets in the way. But the semi-soft flexible tubing works great. I guess you could loosen the bracket bolts but I didn't need to. Your looking at the back side of the right front caliper, wheel covers in place.




Here's the tools you'll need-- About a two liter clear plastic bottle- with a cap. About 3' of clear plastic hose, 1/4" id x 3/8" od. Two walkie/talkie radios are a big help. An 11mm box end wrench, and some shop paper towels. Top off the master cylinder when your done with all 4 wheels.




Here is the completed project.




No mess .

Shove a small piece of shop paper towel into the end of the plastic tubing you just pulled off a bleeder to stop "syphoning" from the waste catch bottle- That will make a mess.
And oh, new, fresh DOT 3 brake fluid is clear- looks like water.



The whole job took about 1 1/2 hours.


You could do this job by yourself with "Oemy's" self bleeders. Just more running back and forth. My "bride" was the helper today.


Good luck on you brake fluid flush.


Incidentlly, I do this on my car and pickup truck periodically, also-
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:21 PM   #2
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Did you have to add fluid to the reservoir during the procedure?
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:26 PM   #3
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Best to confess to the Bride what you did with the turkey baster. Otherwise, hell to pay come Thanksgiving. Been there.

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Old 02-09-2013, 06:47 AM   #4
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Full-Timers-

Yes, I did add some fluid after the rear calipers were done.

I looked at the amount of fluid that came out of the master cylinder, about 1 1/2 liters, and let the final top off come after I finished the whole job.

A correction on the size of the plastic tubing I used in the turkey baster. I just took it into the hardware store and picked a "snug fit" size. The 1/4" id x 3/8" od, applies to the tubing that I used on the caliper bleeder nipples.


Oldusedbear- AKA Roger H-

Roger, you probably won't believe this but I actually bought this baster just for this job. It sits in a bay, and now it looks like it's showing some age deterioration- about 4 years old. The last time I used it was about 2 years before the caliper recall was done in October 2010. I guess I better buy a new one-

Thank you for all the years of service you have given these folks here on the forum with the "auto park" brake system. If anyone can say "get 'er done" it's you!-
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:23 AM   #5
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Great job Max, thanks for the detail explanation. I paid good $$$ to have mine flushed a couple of years ago, thanks to your good instructions, I will do it myself next time.

My question to you and anyone else on the forum is this; I had mine converted to Ambysol Synthetic, the premiss being that synthetic won't absorb moisture as quickly, and has a much higher boiling point. I was thinking that the change interval would be extended. Anyone have thoughts, or options on that?
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:07 AM   #6
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DGB-

Glad to help. It really is an easy job. Getting all the little things together to do it (and a helper), takes a checklist of sorts. Then pick a nice weather day- .

Driver, aka Mike Pelchat, is the guy to ask about the synthetic fluid- He's an expert. He hangs around here all the time.

Cheers,
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGBPokes View Post
Great job Max, thanks for the detail explanation. I paid good $$$ to have mine flushed a couple of years ago, thanks to your good instructions, I will do it myself next time.

My question to you and anyone else on the forum is this; I had mine converted to Ambysol Synthetic, the premiss being that synthetic won't absorb moisture as quickly, and has a much higher boiling point. I was thinking that the change interval would be extended. Anyone have thoughts, or options on that?
it might have a slightly higher BP but unless you are dragging your brakes everywhere or running heavy loads down steep grades... either will work fine.
I did synthetic in mine only because I had a fair amount leftover from my race consumables. No change in performance or longevity. 2yrs is a pretty good service interval to get up close and personal with your brakes anyways.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:15 PM   #8
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Great explanation on how to do. Mine was done last June when purchased when the recall was done. I have purchased Speed bleeders for when its due next time. A word of caution always use jack stands under the MH. I know my HR Admiral drops like a rock when the key is turned to the start position. Jacks always retract when started. Never trust the jacks even when shut off.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:40 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mhudson View Post
Great explanation on how to do. Mine was done last June when purchased when the recall was done. I have purchased Speed bleeders for when its due next time. A word of caution always use jack stands under the MH. I know my HR Admiral drops like a rock when the key is turned to the start position. Jacks always retract when started. Never trust the jacks even when shut off.
these coaches dont have air suspension as they came from Workhorse.
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:05 AM   #10
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mhudson

[QUOTE I know my HR Admiral drops like a rock when the key is turned to the start position. Jacks always retract when started. Never trust the jacks even when shut off. ][/QUOTE]


Ouch, that could ruin your whole day. I sure didn't know that the ignition turned on retracted jacks on any RV's.
This doesn't happen on my Newmar. I also had an older 33' HR class A, Presidential MH and the ignition being turned on didn't effect it's jacks either.

Great point for others to check before crawling underneath their RV's.

Thanks--
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:30 PM   #11
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Don't forget to Chock the wheels before you crawl under your MH too.
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