Brake Fluid Flush Was Big Mistake

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jdsr:
... does larry have such a device and If so what does he charge? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>jdsr, Right now Larry is vacationing in New York state and taking it easy. You can call Darren at 843-293-2205 for a price quote. Tell him I sent ya!

I'm not sure if Larry's has a pressure bleeder or if they do it the ol' fashioned way with 2 guys. The brake system can also be bled using a TechII. Shop closes at 5:00 EST.

[iRV4FUN]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by iRV4FUN:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">The key to successful anything is getting a competent person to do it right the first time. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Good point. My nearest WCC repair facility is a 100 mile round trip. So I went to my local certified Ford Truck repair shop thinking this was a piece of cake. It was a piece of work. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Today I looked under the hood and found that the Ford shop put DexCool in with my green stuff! I told them to leave coolant alone and that it wasn't DexCool. So much for the competent certified Ford C repair center. They have offered to drain DexCool and put Ford Green in. I just had fluid flushed last year.

Since I'm sending my unit back into the competent Certified Ford C repair shop -- here is yet another question for the group. I now have a whistling sound from my drivers-side brake. This is upon brake application. This is the only side (ft/bk) that according to the certified mechanic he did not bleed after the pedal went down to the floor incident. Would air in one line cause this whistling noise? What would you do?

[oldusedbear]

Having the AutoPark overtravel alarm sounding IS a sign that either the shoes, the cables, or both are in need of adjustment. It is in no way related to the service brakes, so there is no easy or logical explanation why it should make trouble right after flushing the service brakes.

Usually, the overtravel occurs after some incident with a parking brake failure - - The failure causes the brake to drag while driving. When this happens, the shoes are worn down some, the actuator moves too far to apply the brake, and the overtravel alarm sounds. If you have had some earlier problem with the AutoPark dragging, that could explain it. If not, you have an interesting mystery on your hands.

I sorta doubt that the dealer can/will offer you the REAL explanation of what happened - - if he knows. AutoPark has some problems but rarely is magic involved.

I'm also surprised the service outlet (apparently) didn't have powered bleeding equipment as mentioned in an earlier post. If the wrench guy is paying any attention at all, it is pretty hard to fill the system with air using these devices.

[Oemtech]

I agree with oldusedbear... Not sure why they even messed with it in the first place.

I would bleed all 4 brakes again...

I would also have them flush the coolant system.

I would also ask that if there are any other problems after this that they pay to have the work by Workhorse Service Center.

[iRV4FUN]

I never had any problem with park brake.

Ford Service Center said air entered system with caliper separation in order to clean and lube. They did this part after the brake bleed. So how does air get in a system that is closed? OK think this one through -- did service tech open bleeder to service brakes? Isn't there a tool for this?

I like Oemys solution of re-re-bleeding all 4 brakes. This will give that service tech more experience. This whole thing makes me not a happy camper!

[Oemtech]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Ford Service Center said air entered system with caliper separation in order to clean and lube. They did this part after the brake bleed. So how does air get in a system that is closed? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

It looks like someone missed "Brake Service 101". Bleeding the brakes is the LAST service done on any brake job.

How does air get? Easy... moving the caliper piston manual can allow air to get by the seal. This was a common problem in early Corvettes when the rotors get slightly warped and the calipers start to "pulse" when the brakes are applied. The solution was to use stainless steel components. There is company call Stainless Steel Brake Corp that was born, do to their fix for this issue in Corvettes.

[Joe Gilbert]

Not to be critical of irv4fun, as it is always good to keep up with maintenance items. Having said that anyone who has removed their Dex-Cool and replaced it with non-Dex-Cool antifreeze should tag the overflow tank so it is clear what antifreeze to use.

There is nothing wrong with Dex-Cool if it is maintained correctly. Millions of GM, Jeep (and perhaps others) use Dex-Cool. It is a well proven coolent.

Dex-Cool is Ethylene Glycol based and is very toxic.

The other type of antifreeze is Propylene Glycol based and is non-toxic.

The problem is the two are not compatable and when mixed there is the potential for major cooling system damage.

I think is is far better to stay with Dex-Cool than to chance that whoever changes your antifreeze to to a Propylene base does it correctly. You can't just drain and refill. You must get all of the old Dex-Cool out of the system (don't forget the heating core).

Anyway that is my opinion on the Dex-Cool issue.

[Jeepster47]

Joe,
I couldn't agree with you more. Overheating and damage to the engine comes from not regularly checking the coolant level in the radiator. If the coolant is slightly low in the radiator it can't move the coolant back and forth from the overflow tank and the radiator. Making sure the radiator cap is working properly is just as important.

Ed

[jdsr]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jdsr:
... does larry have such a device and If so what does he charge? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>jdsr, Right now Larry is vacationing in New York state and taking it easy. You can call Darren at 843-293-2205 for a price quote. Tell him I sent ya!

I'm not sure if Larry's has a pressure bleeder or if they do it the ol' fashioned way with 2 guys. The brake system can also be bled using a TechII. Shop closes at 5:00 EST. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>thanks for info

[iRV4FUN]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Not to be critical of irv4fun, as it is always good to keep up with maintenance items. Having said that anyone who has removed their Dex-Cool and replaced it with non-Dex-Cool antifreeze should tag the overflow tank so it is clear what antifreeze to use. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I appreciate all the posts. Maintaining and finding a shop whom knows what they are doing including following the owners request to leave the coolant system alone and instructing the service manager to use my fluids and that the unit doesn't have dexcool in it should have sufficed.

Last year I had power flush and new cap put on.

Today, I received my WHCC CD Service Manuals. The Ford certified truck repair center will need to explain why they didn't bleed the drivers side front. I know one thing -- I will not have the same mechanic on this job.

[Oemtech]

You can make a pressure pump from a $5 pump sprayer from Wal Mart, some plastic hose, a Master Cylinder cap, a valve stem and some clamps. This tip courtesy of Oemy's DIY Engineering - AKA Oemy's Skunk Works