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Old 05-03-2012, 09:13 AM   #1
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Brake Light switch/Rear Brake Lights/ABS Motor runs on11?

Guys;

With ignition turned off, rear brake lights and ABS light, and what I believe to be an ABS motor or pump continues to run?

When I start engine motor/pump sound goes away (or is operational with engine and hence not noticeable).

Is it a stuck or defective brake light switch or something more serious?

I had to disconnect chassis battery to stop pump and turn off brake lights!
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:26 AM   #2
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I have a similar situation on my W22. If I step on the brake pedal while the ignition is off, I hear what sounds like a pump running. Everything seems normal with engine running.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:08 AM   #3
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The pump and lights continuing to stay on after the key is off and your foot is not on the brake pedal means the brake pedal is not returning to the top of it's position. Check the linkage under the hood to see if there is a grease fitting that need lube.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:38 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George Z View Post
Check the linkage under the hood to see if there is a grease fitting that need lube.
BINGO!
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:13 PM   #5
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Some do not recommend this but you can place a spring off brake pedal linkage to get brake full release.
Been working on mine the pass 8 years.



This is what most have added.
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:22 PM   #6
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Some do not recommend this but you can place a spring off brake pedal linkage to get brake full release. Been working on mine the pass 8 years.
Double Oh!, I had a spring on my 2001 chassis. On the 2003 chassis it was not necessary. In my early ownership, the dealer tapped a hole and installed a grease fitting.
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:21 AM   #7
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All this sounds like good advice golden Gopher but ; ever since I read about brakes "sticking" on MHs' ; just once in awhile, put your foot under the brake pedal, and pull up; if this makes a difference, it will probably be an easy fix. Lube it up.
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:40 AM   #8
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My chassis was made in August or September of 2003 and did not have the grease fitting so I installed one myself.
I removed the bolt holding the bell crank rod in the bell crank housing and pulled the bell crank rod up as far as possible, drilled the hole and used a "Rifle" (flat bottomed) tap.
Probably took 20 minutes or so.
By the way that is the only bolt I have found so far that is SAE instead of Metric.

If you do a search you will find posts with pictures.
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