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Old 05-19-2012, 12:22 AM   #1
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Brake pedal stuck down solution

At first the brake pedal was just not returning all the way up causing the brake lights to stay on running the battery down. During a 600 mi trip the pedal began sticking way down every time it was applied. I had to pull it up with my toes ( not fun ). When I got home I search the threads for a solution but didn't find a solution that fit my 2003 Workhorse P chassi. I don't have a bellcrank tube or zerts to lube anywhere between the pedal and the master cycininder. I installed a stronger pedal return spring, which solved nothing. I got on the ground under the master cylinder and had the wife work the pedal. When the pedal was down and stuck there was a loud pop when pulled back up. I desided the issue was friction binding. Again my P series has no bellcrank tube at all. The large brake up/down rod sits inside a 4'' square steel shaft with a rubber tube sealing the rods path thru the coach floor to the upper controls. The master cylinder is conected to the large down rod by a two bolt pivit. The pivit arm sits inside the 4" square shaft and is held in place by a large round head bolt thru the pivit arm. Access to the locking nuts on the bolts is very tight. The larger round head bolt has a cotter pin in it and the locking nut is hard to loosen due to the roundhead, even after you pull the cotter pin. ( nail in cotter pin hole and hold with pliers) After loosening the lock nuts slightly and reinstalling the cotter pin, the brake pedal movement was normal. There were no washers to prevent friction between the pivit arm and the shaft housing. Very poor design...I smeared grease on the pivit arm in hopes some would work in. I will probably install double locknuts just in case. Hope this info is of some use to anyone with a sticking brake pedal. There are other reasons for pedal stick but this solved my problem. Sometimes major problem don't need complicated or evpensive parts/solutions....
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Old 05-19-2012, 10:06 AM   #2
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Good info for a P series. Thanks,





Mike
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Old 05-19-2012, 10:25 AM   #3
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I have a different brake system but same trouble instead of adding Zerk fitting I added a spring might work for you.
ADDED SPRING
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:58 AM   #4
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added spring

Quote:
Originally Posted by 007";1181661]I have a different brake system but same trouble instead of adding Zerk fitting I added a spring might work for you.
[B][URL="http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/brake-light-switch-rear-brake-lights-abs-motor-runs-on11-122713.html#post1164808
ADDED SPRING[/URL][/B]

I did add a stronger return spring and there was no improvement. Stronger spring = harder pedal.
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Old 05-19-2012, 12:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamfolger View Post
I did add a stronger return spring and there was no improvement. Stronger spring = harder pedal.
P Series brakes already have a high pedal requiring more effort to apply. Adding a spring must just make this process more difficult.
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:57 PM   #6
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Brake pedal return spring

Exactly what happened Driver...stronger return spring = harder pedal. I removed the stronger spring today and reinstalled the original spring with a turnbuckle so I can micro adjust to suit my needs.
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:35 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamfolger View Post
Exactly what happened Driver...stronger return spring = harder pedal. I removed the stronger spring today and reinstalled the original spring with a turnbuckle so I can micro adjust to suit my needs.
Roger that!
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Old 05-20-2012, 01:57 PM   #8
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Hello, found that the piviot bolt on power booster rod sticks due to rust preventing pedal from completely returning to stop. hope this helps
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Old 05-20-2012, 02:14 PM   #9
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Hello, found that the piviot bolt on power booster rod sticks due to rust preventing pedal from completely returning to stop. hope this helps
What type of chassis do you have, the P series or the W series?
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Old 05-20-2012, 04:07 PM   #10
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If you dig back in the forum archives you will find reference to a "Fix" for the Workhorse bell-crank problem.

Sometime in 2004 or 2005 model year Workhorse made a modification to the bell crank. I know this mod was in place by the 2005.5 model year (Cause I'm sitting on one as I type) The mod was the addition of a ZERK fitting to the bell crank.

Early in the Workhorse brake issues, this was thought to be the culprit (Turns out it was ONE of them).. The ZERK and regular application of the old grease gun is the solution to that one.

Instructions as to how to add a Zerk can be found in the forum archives. Alas, I do not have the link to them, I'm typing this 100% from memory and memory is not link-level-precise.. But I know they were there. I think the instrucitons, complete with photos are on a member's personal site, likely Omey's.
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