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Old 11-21-2008, 06:56 PM   #1
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I have an 03 Southwind 32V, which I believe is on a W-20 Chasis. The motorhome was actually built in 02, so I assume the chasis is an 02. I have had NO problems with the brakes....so here's my question........how likely am I to have problems? Oh ya, I have about 23,000 miles on my rig. I ask this, because I see so many posting regarding brake problems. My motorhome was NOT part of the brake recall either. Thanks
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Old 11-21-2008, 06:56 PM   #2
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I have an 03 Southwind 32V, which I believe is on a W-20 Chasis. The motorhome was actually built in 02, so I assume the chasis is an 02. I have had NO problems with the brakes....so here's my question........how likely am I to have problems? Oh ya, I have about 23,000 miles on my rig. I ask this, because I see so many posting regarding brake problems. My motorhome was NOT part of the brake recall either. Thanks
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Old 11-22-2008, 07:25 AM   #3
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by supercub:
I have an 03 Southwind 32V, which I believe is on a W-20 Chasis. The motorhome was actually built in 02, so I assume the chasis is an 02. I have had NO problems with the brakes....so here's my question........how likely am I to have problems? Oh ya, I have about 23,000 miles on my rig. I ask this, because I see so many posting regarding brake problems. My motorhome was NOT part of the brake recall either. Thanks </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Another brake-thread... nnnooooooooooooo! Just kidding... while some here have had serious brake-related issues, it's not 'likely' you will have a problem. The overall concern is that no one really knows WHY it's happening, though certain types of driving does seem to trigger it, such as stop-and-go driving.

I myself have not had a problem, (2005 Winniebago on a 2004 W20 chassis) but do feel that it is a 'real' concern and certainly always on my mind when driving, which somewhat defeats the purpose on taking short getways for a reality break. Drive with care and caution, stop immediately if you feel that you have a problem and let the brakes cool down, do brake-rotor inspections and keep up on your maintenance, like greasing the brake pin slides.
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Old 11-22-2008, 08:12 AM   #4
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I have a 2003 Pace Arrow 35G. Brakes felt good, stopped good. Had them inpected and all 4 rotors were cracking. $3300.00 later the brakes still feel good, stop good and I feel much better. If the brakes have not been inpected in a while I recommend it being done. My coach has 33,000 miles and the brake pads were about 60%.
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Old 11-22-2008, 09:56 AM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by supercub:
I have an 03 Southwind 32V, which I believe is on a W-20 Chasis. The motorhome was actually built in 02, so I assume the chasis is an 02. I have had NO problems with the brakes....so here's my question........how likely am I to have problems? Oh ya, I have about 23,000 miles on my rig. I ask this, because I see so many posting regarding brake problems. My motorhome was NOT part of the brake recall either. Thanks </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

My coach is also on a 2002 chassis. I have never had a problem in 37000 miles. I just installed new tires. I had the fluid flushed and it was past due. I had the pins & slides lubed. My rotors had small cracks which the tech said was normal. He did not think I would ever have a problem.

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Old 11-22-2008, 02:53 PM   #6
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There are 3 brake problems that I have read about.. Brake lines can fail in a strange way, that can happen on any vehicle, any make, any model, any time, happened on my towed, has not happened on my workhorse... yet.

Something about the pins on one brake system. and that's all I know about it..

The bell crank king pin.. Now that one either WILL fail or will very likely not fail in the life of the rig and it's easy to tell which.

Open the hood, locate the brake bell crank (The thing that changes the forward press of the brake pedal to a sideways press into the master cylinder) and look for a properly greased ZERK fitting

If it's there, and if it's greased. it won't fail. NO ZERK = TROUBLE brewing.

NOTE there is a thread here that tells how to add-a-zerk
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Old 11-22-2008, 02:57 PM   #7
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Remember to please flush and bleed your brakes! This is going to be one of the easiest and lest expensive things you can do.
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Old 11-22-2008, 04:11 PM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
Remember to please flush and bleed your brakes! This is going to be one of the easiest and lest expensive things you can do. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

DriVer;

I'm going to do that on an upcoming maintenance project (along with the pin slides) with the help from my son-in-law. I'm not very mechanically inclined, so too big a project by myself. I did check the brake fluid and was surprised at how clear it seemed to be at 3 years old & 13k miles. But yes, I'm replacing it soon...
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Old 11-23-2008, 04:44 PM   #9
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What mileage is recommended to have brake fluid flushed and bled?

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Old 11-23-2008, 05:20 PM   #10
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It is recommended every two to three years, it is not a mileage issue. The problem is moisture is absorbed by brake fluid, the more humid the area, more water absorbed.
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Old 11-23-2008, 08:35 PM   #11
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I had an 02 W20 and traded it in with 65,000 and had no brake problems. I now have 07 W22 with 36,000 no brake problems. Just don't be afraid to use 2nd and 3rd gear when going down hill. You will not have any problems.
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Old 11-24-2008, 04:05 AM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Richard 34A:
I did check the brake fluid and was surprised at how clear it seemed to be at 3 years old & 13k miles. ... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Richard, Perhaps you obtained your sample from the master cylinder reservoir however where it gets yucky is right where it could hurt the most down in the calipers.
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Old 11-25-2008, 11:44 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Richard 34A:
I did check the brake fluid and was surprised at how clear it seemed to be at 3 years old & 13k miles. ... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Richard, Perhaps you obtained your sample from the master cylinder reservoir however where it gets yucky is right where it could hurt the most down in the calipers. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

DriVer;

Yes, it was from the reservoir, and I plan on replacing it soon, but was surprised that it looked really clean. I've got some help lined up to replace it and lube the brake pins in the near future.

I saw a link to someone that posted that he lubed the pins by not taking the wheels off; what's your opinion on that method?
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Old 11-25-2008, 07:55 PM   #14
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Richard 34A:
I saw a link to someone that posted that he lubed the pins by not taking the wheels off; what's your opinion on that method? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Richard, My opinion is to accomplish the proceedure according to the shop manual which indeed calls for the removal of the tires. You can not get good handle on what's happening to the caliper unless you get the tire out of the way. IMHO. How can you inspect what may be obscured by the wheel? No big deal just 8 lug nuts.
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