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Old 05-26-2008, 04:48 PM   #29
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Gramps I had the same thing happen to my MH, it is a 2004 gulfstream W22. Workhorse replaced the rear calipers, ABS sensors, and pads under warrenty. I had only 12000 miles on the MH. It is a common problem that a lot of us is having. Workhorse has a problem but won't admit it. Do a lot of screaming and maybe they will do something for you.
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:11 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by max49:
I certainly would not come to the conclusion that the P series has a brake problem, because I have none so far and I don't think I can remember any one on this forum reporting P-32 brake problems..
Except and I agree with, it takes more force on the pedal than any other vehicle I've owned and go-karts have a bigger brake pedal than my P-32. Very difficult for people like me who like to use their left foot on the brake.
Memorial day weekend in 2006 I lost a 1995 Vactra on a P32 chassis due to an overheated right front caliper that started a wheel well fire. No warning of a problem until it was too late. Since it was a eleven year old vehicle purchased used at 42,000 miles 6 months earlier and the past owners maintenance could not be proven it was left as a chance occurance even though I had paid for a full chassis and wheel bearing lube (meaning they had to pull the front calipers and should have put fresh lube on the pins and ways on reinstalling them) when I bought the coach.

I now own an 2001 F53 with a double wide brake pedal but it also suffers from problems with the ABS sensors going out (from dust contamination and chatter bumps) however no fires yet.

Time will tell what the W22/Bosch issue is.

I did find out the other day that a retired friend of mine did the electrical engineering on quite a few ABS controllers I may ask him what his take on this W22 issue is. I realise that he may not be able to offer a repeatable opinion due to the terms of his former employment but it could be an interesting conversation.
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Old 05-27-2008, 03:22 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by NeilV:
Since it was a eleven year old vehicle purchased used at 42,000 miles 6 months earlier and the past owners maintenance could not be proven it was left as a chance occurance even though I had paid for a full chassis and wheel bearing lube (meaning they had to pull the front calipers and should have put fresh lube on the pins and ways on reinstalling them) when I bought the coach.
Why would the front calipers be pulled for a chassis and wheel bearing lube??

I wouldn't expect any brake maintenance when requesting a full chassis and wheel bearing lube.

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Old 05-27-2008, 03:42 AM   #32
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2004 Damon Challenger 16210 miles right front caliper seized, abs light on. Replaced rotor, both front brake pad sets, wheel seal, hubcap and two abs sensors. $998.00.
lyledavid Not happy knowing this could happen again.
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:40 PM   #33
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lyledavid: Sorry about your brake problem.
Sure hope you reported this to NHTSA.
This officially makes you a member of the failed
workhorse brake club with many many others.
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Old 05-27-2008, 05:48 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tom N:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by NeilV:
Since it was a eleven year old vehicle purchased used at 42,000 miles 6 months earlier and the past owners maintenance could not be proven it was left as a chance occurance even though I had paid for a full chassis and wheel bearing lube (meaning they had to pull the front calipers and should have put fresh lube on the pins and ways on reinstalling them) when I bought the coach.
Why would the front calipers be pulled for a chassis and wheel bearing lube??

I wouldn't expect any brake maintenance when requesting a full chassis and wheel bearing lube.

-Tom </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You have to remove the hub to get to the inner bearing and seal as it is greased not oiled on the 1995 P32. In order to pull the hub you have to remove the rotor. In order to remover the rotor you need to remove the caliper. If you remove the caliper you should lube it when reinstalling it.

When I was doing this 35 years ago my boss would have hit me upside the head if I removed and replaced a caliper to lube a front wheel bearing and did not make sure the caliper was properly lubed or put bad pads back on without telling the customer. Didn't want to get sued for lack of diligence.
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Old 05-28-2008, 04:24 AM   #35
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My brakes were re-done,front and rear----calipers,pins,rotors,sleeves and pins at 20,252 miles,on 03-15-04.
The work was done under warranty, at Tom Naquin Chevrolet in Elkhart,Indiana.

I must say that even though there isn't concrete evidence of a brake failure problem, in Workhorse's opinion,the damage to their reputation is definitely mounting.
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Old 05-28-2008, 04:55 AM   #36
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Well, it makes me nervous to drive the rig right now. Hopefully I will get over that...but I am thinking about trading for an 06 or newer coach like a PA on a W24.
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Old 05-28-2008, 09:34 AM   #37
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A retired mechanic friend of mine had his own shop and worked in it with his father for 61 years. Lots of knowledge and eperience. A few years ago he maintained a government fleet of light trucks, many Dodges. He states MoPar went through a period of using phenolic pistons in disc brakes. There were many instances of heavy sticking of the pistons in the bores with resultant brake failures.

At that time, there were chromed metal aftermarket pistons from NAPA available to replace the phenolic pistons. He states he replaced numerous pistons and cured the failures.

WCC brake failures may be in this category.
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Old 05-28-2008, 03:56 PM   #38
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Having experienced cracked rotors and not knowing why I am very apprehensive about driving the motorhome. In the interest of trying to protect myself and family I am implementing a temperature monitoring system, and need some information on temperature specs. I have been unable to get anything useful from Workhorse and have been totally unsuccessful in contacting anyone at Bosch.

If anyone out there can help me with some reliable numbers or a good technical contact at either WH or Bosch I will appreciate it. Primarily I would like to know what the normal operating temperature range and maximum temperature for the rotors and pads is.
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Old 05-28-2008, 05:40 PM   #39
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As I have stated many times on this web site, I have had two failures with my W-20
braking system. The first was befor I had taken the vehicle in for the recall.(left rear)
And the second was last yr. in PA. while on a bck road, (cow path) botha times it was while
towing with braking assest. And BOTH times AFTER some moderater to severe braking.
Much like GRAMPS incountered with the red lights on RT# 17, (been there done that)

At the time of the recall, as I read it they were to only change the PINS on the calibes.
But when I went to pick the MH up was told that WH had ran out of pins and they had
sent and the shop had change ALL four calibers?????
And as my friend just had his done a wk or so before, and they only change the pins!!
I assumed, maybe so ????Then two yrs. ago my friend had brake problem and WH installed
all 4 calibers. NO CHARGE, and he was out of warranty.....An this yr. back from FL,
he had a blow out on the right front tire a nd found the two front roters were cracked
and he had both replaced with new brakes shoes. On his dime.

obbm, I have had half dozen DODGE vans sence 1972, an all with font disks,
with the phenolic piston had a brke that would drag at 75 to 80 thousand miles.
All I everdid to solve the probleem was to take the piston down and clean a very
fine SILT like substance out from behind the piston and reassembly...... Tenn.
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:22 PM   #40
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We are going to the FMCA GEAR rally in Richmond on the 4th. I hope Workhorse will have a rep there because I really want to talk to someone about this situation and who knows maybe I can get them to take a look while they are at it. I suspect I am hoping for too much though since it isn't a national rally.
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:29 PM   #41
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Gramps; If you talk to a WH rep at Richmond I will appreciate it if you ask about the temperature specs on the rotors and pads. How high is safe, and how high is too high?
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:37 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by -Gramps-:
I hope Workhorse will have a rep there ....
-Gramps-, That would me me. See you there.
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