Brake Question

[Mike Bowman]

I got our Safari Trek (2004 W20 30PBS) out of the storage lot today and took it for a drive. It had not been driven in over a month so I thought it would be good to take it out for a drive & also run the generator. I drove about 30 miles to the local CW, looked around awhile and then started back to the storage facility.

On the way back I decided to go by the house and put some water in the holding tank. At the house, I shut off the Trek but left the generator & AC on. When I got out and walked around the back of the Trek, I noticed a slight burning smell. I opened the generator compartment and all was O.K. in there. I walked around the back (smell seemed to be in the rear) and realized it was a brake smell. I didn't think I had used the brakes hard enough to get them smelling, but since the smell wasn't that strong, I thought maybe I had.

I finished filling the tank and hopped in the Trek for the drive back to the storage lot. At the first stop sign I came to, the brake pedal went almost to the floor & the ABS light came on! A few quick pumps and I stopped safely. I realized as I continued to the lot (only about 2 miles from my house) that even if I didn't pump the brakes, they would stop me before the pedal hit the floor (but this would cause an audible alarm from the dash). Pumping about twice would give me a good, firm pedal and no audible alarm.

I made it safely back to the lot and parked it. A quick visual inspection revealed nothing. I couldn't see through the reservoir to check the fluid level and looking under the Trek at the calipers, I couldn't see anything obvious. No smoke, no drips, nothing. I'm thinking a sticking caliper may have caused the brake fluid to boil, causing the extra soft pedal. What do you guys think? Time to lube the caliper pins? Time to go to a Workhorse Service Center? Also, I did a scan with my ScanGauge and it showed no codes/errors.

Mike B. in SC

[Mike Bowman]

I got our Safari Trek (2004 W20 30PBS) out of the storage lot today and took it for a drive. It had not been driven in over a month so I thought it would be good to take it out for a drive & also run the generator. I drove about 30 miles to the local CW, looked around awhile and then started back to the storage facility.

On the way back I decided to go by the house and put some water in the holding tank. At the house, I shut off the Trek but left the generator & AC on. When I got out and walked around the back of the Trek, I noticed a slight burning smell. I opened the generator compartment and all was O.K. in there. I walked around the back (smell seemed to be in the rear) and realized it was a brake smell. I didn't think I had used the brakes hard enough to get them smelling, but since the smell wasn't that strong, I thought maybe I had.

I finished filling the tank and hopped in the Trek for the drive back to the storage lot. At the first stop sign I came to, the brake pedal went almost to the floor & the ABS light came on! A few quick pumps and I stopped safely. I realized as I continued to the lot (only about 2 miles from my house) that even if I didn't pump the brakes, they would stop me before the pedal hit the floor (but this would cause an audible alarm from the dash). Pumping about twice would give me a good, firm pedal and no audible alarm.

I made it safely back to the lot and parked it. A quick visual inspection revealed nothing. I couldn't see through the reservoir to check the fluid level and looking under the Trek at the calipers, I couldn't see anything obvious. No smoke, no drips, nothing. I'm thinking a sticking caliper may have caused the brake fluid to boil, causing the extra soft pedal. What do you guys think? Time to lube the caliper pins? Time to go to a Workhorse Service Center? Also, I did a scan with my ScanGauge and it showed no codes/errors.

Mike B. in SC

[oemtech]

I would suspect that you may have got them hot enough to boil the fluid in the calipers. That's assuming you were dragging the brakes. I would flush the system, bleed the brakes and take it it for brake check.

A couple points on brake fluid.

1) All brake fluid is synthetic
2) DOT 3 is all that is ever needed for normal usage.
DOT 4 has a higher boiling but deteriorates faster when contaminated (so I have been told).
DOT 5 is silicone based and should NOT be mixed with either DOT 3 or 4
5) NON contaminated fluid will either be clear or a slight amber color. The darker it is the more the contamination.
6) Gravity bleeding is the simplest method to flush and bleed the air from the system.

I did my own flush for about $12. I took about an hour to gravity bleed.

Check your owners manual for any restrictions, warnings about the ABS system and brake bleeding.

PARTS
3 qts of DOT 3 fluid
3' of plastic hose
3 liter clear soda bottle.

PROCESS
1) Remove as much old brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir and refill with fresh fluid.
2) Go to the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Usually the passenger side rear. Attach the plastic tube to the bleeder screw. Drop the other end in the soda bottle that has about 1" of brake fluid in it (enough to cover the drain tube).
3) Open the bleeder valve and wait for the fluid to run. Be sure to top off the master cylinder reservoir. Always close the bleeder valve when filling the reservoir.
4) Continue to drain the system until the fluid is clear or has a slight amber color and there are no air bubbles.
5) Repeat for the drivers side rear, pass side front and driver side front.

[Mike Bowman]

Thanks, Dale! I didn't realize that you could gravity bleed the brakes. I think I can do this.

[Uncle Sam]

Mike it sounds as if you have the same problem I just had on my W22, 2004 WH. They had to replace the rear calipers, pads, turn the rotors, new seals. the calipers were hanging up. I would take it to the dealer and have them check the rear calipers, maybe if you are lucks you can get buy with just having them lube the pins and the slides.

[Mike Bowman]

Brake Update!
I have not had time to do anything to my brakes since my original post but I have driven it three times this week. The first time was just around the storage facility a few times. No problems, brakes worked fine. However, the ABS light still stays on. Monday I took it out on the road and drove it a few miles, no problem, brakes worked normal (ABS light still on). Tuesday I took it out and drove it for over an hour. City, hwy & country roads - no problems, the brakes worked normal. The ABS light is still on but everything else seemed fine. When I got back to the storage facility I stuck my head in each wheel well and could not smell any brake odors at all. At least now I feel safe driving it to a service center to have them checked out & find out why the ABS light is on.

[JCM]

I had the same problem and it was that the overheating destroyed the ABS sensors on the rear wheels. New ones fixed the problem. ( ABS light on all the time).

[CoastieSCPO]

Mike;
I had a major brake problem on my W-20 and had all the calipers, the rear rotors, and all the slides replaced after the rears locked up. After the repairs, the ABS light stayed on. To fix this, I crawed under the rig and made certain that the ABS connectors were pushed in on top of the brake assembly. Sure enough, when pushing down on the two rear connectors, they clicked in, so that showed that they were not installed correctly. Since then, no ABS light on the dash. Maybe that would solve your problem with the ABS light.
Bob

[jdsr]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mike Bowman:
I got our Safari Trek (2004 W20 30PBS) out of the storage lot today and took it for a drive. It had not been driven in over a month so I thought it would be good to take it out for a drive & also run the generator. I drove about 30 miles to the local CW, looked around awhile and then started back to the storage facility.

On the way back I decided to go by the house and put some water in the holding tank. At the house, I shut off the Trek but left the generator & AC on. When I got out and walked around the back of the Trek, I noticed a slight burning smell. I opened the generator compartment and all was O.K. in there. I walked around the back (smell seemed to be in the rear) and realized it was a brake smell. I didn't think I had used the brakes hard enough to get them smelling, but since the smell wasn't that strong, I thought maybe I had.

I finished filling the tank and hopped in the Trek for the drive back to the storage lot. At the first stop sign I came to, the brake pedal went almost to the floor & the ABS light came on! A few quick pumps and I stopped safely. I realized as I continued to the lot (only about 2 miles from my house) that even if I didn't pump the brakes, they would stop me before the pedal hit the floor (but this would cause an audible alarm from the dash). Pumping about twice would give me a good, firm pedal and no audible alarm.

I made it safely back to the lot and parked it. A quick visual inspection revealed nothing. I couldn't see through the reservoir to check the fluid level and looking under the Trek at the calipers, I couldn't see anything obvious. No smoke, no drips, nothing. I'm thinking a sticking caliper may have caused the brake fluid to boil, causing the extra soft pedal. What do you guys think? Time to lube the caliper pins? Time to go to a Workhorse Service Center? Also, I did a scan with my ScanGauge and it showed no codes/errors.

Mike B. in SC </div></BLOCKQUOTE> Mike, Im not telling you what to do but I took mine to shop and there was plent of damage that I couldnt see unless the wheels were off. and btw my pins were lubed so I dont think that will help. my abs sensors were melted to. Your peddle going to the floor isnt good IMO. whether you take it to a shop or not I hope you will report to nhtsa. the toll fre number is 1-888-327-4236. they already have a case number for it. thanks

[jebturin]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mike Bowman:
At least now I feel safe driving it to a service center to have them checked out & find out why the ABS light is on. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Mike,
Have you had a chance to find out what is causing your ABS problem?
I'm interested because I have had the light since April and the RV has been in the shop for the past two weeks and they still don't know the problem.
jimmy

[JnGOnTheGo]

I had the same problem with the ABS light coming on and staying on, the shop replaced a sensor attached to the master cylinder.

[Mike Bowman]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jebturin:
Mike,
Have you had a chance to find out what is causing your ABS problem?
I'm interested because I have had the light since April and the RV has been in the shop for the past two weeks and they still don't know the problem.
jimmy </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have not taken it to a shop yet. I did drive it 300+ miles from SC to Alabama with no problems other than the ABS light being on. And three weeks ago we took it camping in Arkansas (1000+ mile round trip) and the brakes performed flawlessly. The ABS light is still on and I have found an RV service center near our new home in 'Bama and I hope to have them check it out soon.

Mike

[jebturin]

Mike,
I'm not concerned about braking when my ABS light is on. We have put six thousand miles on our mh since the light came on. It has no effect what-so-ever on the brakes and I'm not sure a heavy vehicial like a motorhome even needs ABS for traction. I do want it fixed though.
If you don't mind, let us know what was causing your light after you get it fixed.

Thanks,
jimmy

[Korryp]

Check the sensors. Had my on a lift yesterday at Camping World and my left rear sensor was melted. Made an appointment at a Workhorse facility to get it fixed ASAP.