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Old 06-05-2007, 09:52 AM   #15
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Is it possible to inspect the brake rotors without removing the wheels?
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Old 06-05-2007, 02:43 PM   #16
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I just did check mine through the wheels. Those pictures just scared the crap out of me. I took off the wheel covers and got a super bright flashlight. I could clearly see NO CRACKS. Wow, what a relief.
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Old 06-05-2007, 03:50 PM   #17
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Make sure you have a grease zerk fitting in the brake bellcrank assembly.This is located under the hood to the right of the master cylinder as your looking at it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Great suggestion, except that the coach builder (National RV) boxed the thing in with structural steel. NRV says it is possible to reach the Zerk with a right-angle fitting on the grease gun but I haven't tried it.
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Old 06-05-2007, 06:25 PM   #18
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by JCM:
The slider pins are in the caliper assembly. Sadly, you must remove the heavy wheels to get at them.
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I brought this subject up sometime back. The slide pins on my rig are accessible on the inside side of the brake calipers. It struck me that there was the possibility of removing and lubing them without having to remove the wheels.

Since I didn't receive any positive comments, I didn't pursue the subject. However, I still feel it can be done. I would just need to know the torque values and an IPB would help.
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:23 AM   #19
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by adj:
Since I didn't receive any positive comments, I didn't pursue the subject. However, I still feel it can be done. I would just need to know the torque values and an IPB would help. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>adj, regret that you haven't seen the information that you have asked for however I have answered this question previously and according to the TAC the wheels must be removed in order to perform caliper slide pin maintenance.

Could you please expand a bit on what IPB is? I can get you the slide pin torque values and will post same later today.
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:46 AM   #20
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by adj:
Since I didn't receive any positive comments, I didn't pursue the subject. However, I still feel it can be done. I would just need to know the torque values and an IPB would help. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>adj, regret that you haven't seen the information that you have asked for however I have answered this question previously and according to the TAC the wheels must be removed in order to perform caliper slide pin maintenance.

Could you please expand a bit on what IPB is? I can get you the slide pin torque values and will post same later today. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
IPB is an acronym for Illustrated Parts Breakdown. In this case, it would be for the caliper assembly.
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Old 06-06-2007, 03:14 AM   #21
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I have to agree with adj. It APPEARS the slide pins could be removed from the inside (one at a time, of course, to keep the caliper in alignment with the carrier.) That can be done with most cars and trucks. Unless Dana axles (rear) and Western (?)(front) are some wierd design. (thus the need for an IPB to see how it all fits together.)
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Old 06-06-2007, 05:52 AM   #22
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by bandcworkhorse:
I have to agree with adj. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Don't shoot me, I'm just the messenger.
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Old 06-06-2007, 07:32 AM   #23
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To RamblinFever.
You can inspect the rotors for crack by getting down under your rig and feeling around the rotors - inside the wheels. Run your fingers around and you will be able to feel the cracks if they are there. If you find something - then pull the wheels to confirm and to fully assess.

I also found that when the rear rotors heated up and cracked on my unit that the ABS sensors got "cooked" and needed replacement.
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Old 06-06-2007, 07:26 PM   #24
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I replaced my front tires today (6/6/07), and while the wheels were off, I noticed cracking of both front rotors exactly like the photo posted by hwybnb (I took some photos, too).

My W22 rig is a 2003 Winnebago Adventurer 38G with 31K miles on it. It was built on 11/11/02.

Looks like I will be making a trip to a Workhorse Service Center soon to get these checked.
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Old 06-07-2007, 08:12 AM   #25
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Wbeights:
I replaced my front tires today (6/6/07), and while the wheels were off, I noticed cracking of both front rotors exactly like the photo posted by hwybnb (I took some photos, too). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I replaced my tires in February.

Surface heat cracks in the rotors are normal. If you have a 90? fracture coming out from the hub that's a horse of a different color.

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Old 06-08-2007, 02:13 PM   #26
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I replaced my tires in February. Smile </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

What kind. I'm looking.

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Old 06-08-2007, 02:23 PM   #27
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Had my caliper pins lubed 2 days ago. The truck shop removed the front wheels, but not the rear. The Tech easily (manually) pulled two pins on each wheel & lubed them. Rotors and pads on all four wheels were in excellent condition---smooth as a baby's---behind.

Chassis is about 11/02 mfr, 26200 miles.

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Old 06-08-2007, 03:08 PM   #28
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Thanks for the tip. I was able to check the outer surfaces of the rotors this way. However, the inner surfaces of the rear rotors are covered by a sheet metal covers.

Anyone know why the rear rotors are covered while the front are fully exposed?
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