Brake Rotor Cracks

[hwybnb]

I searched but didn't find any recent posts on this so am starting a new thread.

My W-22 chassis has 42 months and a little under 30k miles on it. I consider myself to be conservative driver that does not drive fast or brake hard. I use engine braking when decending grades in a concious effort to not over-stress the brakes.

When I took it to a WH Service Center for routine maintenance and a brake inspection they reported that the right rear brake rotor was cracked all the way through. Here is a photo:



In addition the other rotors all had "surface cracks". There was servicable pad on all wheels.

I had a long telephone discussion with Workhorse Tech Support about this. They consider surface cracking (cracks less than 1/16" deep) to be normal but obviously the thru-crack is not. After a lot of discussion and getting the District Service Manager involved Workhorse agreed to pay the parts cost for new rotors and pads on the rear brakes. They recommended not changing the front rotors but I paid for new pads there, plus all labor. I am smarting at the cost but grateful that WH stepped up to the extent they did.

I am concerned about the future and the prospect of more serious cracks. I don't know of anything more than what I already do to baby the brakes. I don't know if this crack was caused by a material defect in the one rotor or by something else. Workhorse did not comment on that.

If anyone has any sage advice or other comments please post.

[hwybnb]

I searched but didn't find any recent posts on this so am starting a new thread.

My W-22 chassis has 42 months and a little under 30k miles on it. I consider myself to be conservative driver that does not drive fast or brake hard. I use engine braking when decending grades in a concious effort to not over-stress the brakes.

When I took it to a WH Service Center for routine maintenance and a brake inspection they reported that the right rear brake rotor was cracked all the way through. Here is a photo:



In addition the other rotors all had "surface cracks". There was servicable pad on all wheels.

I had a long telephone discussion with Workhorse Tech Support about this. They consider surface cracking (cracks less than 1/16" deep) to be normal but obviously the thru-crack is not. After a lot of discussion and getting the District Service Manager involved Workhorse agreed to pay the parts cost for new rotors and pads on the rear brakes. They recommended not changing the front rotors but I paid for new pads there, plus all labor. I am smarting at the cost but grateful that WH stepped up to the extent they did.

I am concerned about the future and the prospect of more serious cracks. I don't know of anything more than what I already do to baby the brakes. I don't know if this crack was caused by a material defect in the one rotor or by something else. Workhorse did not comment on that.

If anyone has any sage advice or other comments please post.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by hwybnb:

My W-22 chassis has 42 months and a little under 30k miles on it .... I don't know if this crack was caused by a material defect in the one rotor or by something else.. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>It's not likely that there was a material defect however anything is possible. Perhaps some type of operational anomaly contributed toward the crack for all the caution that was excersised.

The surface cracks appear to within normal operational limits.

[JCM]

I had all 4 rotors crack and it was determined that the Bosch calipers - slider pins- were not lubed properly from the factory. That caused the pads to allwasy rub against the rotors (more than normal).
Your mechanic probably greased these pins when he removed the front calipers to replace the pads. Ask next time you are in the shop.

[TandW]

hwybnb; if cracked rotor was very much worse than the other then you can expect a sticking caliper was at fault. If wear was otherwise even then prolonged braking is at fault. If the cracks appear to be wihin a sector and not all the way around you can suspect warping that was brought about by side to side runout.

[knebrdr]

There appears to be a crack forming at the radius onto the wheel mounting surface of the rotor. Cold water hitting a hot rotor could have caused the crack.
Randy

[RICK SUSA]

were are slider pins located can one do it yourself.any response could be helpful..i have a hard knock when applying brakes from rear.maybe this could be related...thanks...rick...6-4-07

[JCM]

The slider pins are in the caliper assembly. Sadly, you must remove the heavy wheels to get at them. You need a heavy torque wrench (aprox 500 f pounds). Then it is easy to remove the caliper pins. Lube them with a antiseize lube. Maybe others can suggest a specific product and or a simpler procedure.

[abarkl]

The WCC DM approved the replacement of all 4 on my '01 W22 last year and blamed it on a dragging linkage for which they installed a grease zerk.

[max49]

How much are rotors for the W and the P series WH? The price of rotors and drums vary insanely. I've bought new drums for a 22.5 tire for less than $100 at a Kenworth dealer, paid about $38 for the front rotor for my Ford class C and they want about a $120 for the rear rotor on my street motor cycle. Go figure.
The biggest problem with WH parts is most places have never heard of a Workhorse, so where do you get them?
Cracked rotors are pretty common so I hope somebody has found an after market connection.

[hwybnb]

Max: I don't know the parts cost for the rotors. It was paid by Workhorse and not shown on the work order. The labor charge to replace the rear rotors and pads was $500.

[Brazels RV Performance]

Make sure you have a grease zerk fitting in the brake bellcrank assembly.This is located under the hood to the right of the master cylinder as your looking at it.

[JCM]

If ypu don't have one and are out of warantee - check with Workhorse first - you can install one easily without removing the entire structure.
Take a center punch and mark - lightly the middle of the tube and drill very carefully a hole that is smaller than the zerk fitting's threads. STOP drilling just as the center of the bit penetrates the tube - you can feel the change. You don't want to mark the shaft. There is quite a bit of play as it is not a precision fit. Then take an awl or a sharp pointed object and pick out the remainder of the metal in the hole. Screw in the zerk fitting but make sure that you don't screw it in too far and push against the shaft. The shaft and brake lever to the master cylinder should be movable by hand.
Then grease away. Again check for free movement.

[scoutmstr]

I would add one suggestion to JCM procedure. Put some grease on the bit before you drill. Drill at a slow RPM. The grease will help keep the metal shavings on the bit reducing/eliminating the amount that gets into the bellcrank.