Brakes

[Finhawk]

Since I'm a newbie to the Workhorse chassis, what seems to be the problem with the brakes? I want to know what ot look for just in case I develop a problem

[Finhawk]

Since I'm a newbie to the Workhorse chassis, what seems to be the problem with the brakes? I want to know what ot look for just in case I develop a problem

[FrontRangeRVer]

A search turned up the following recent posts on this subject...there's plenty more....these are just on the first two pages of posts.

Brakes thread

Another one

A recently closed brake thread

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Finhawk:
Since I'm a newbie to the Workhorse chassis, what seems to be the problem with the brakes? I want to know what ot look for just in case I develop a problem </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Finhawk, I would not overly concern my self with this brake problem since you have a W24 under your 38J. I would only offer that you should consider flushing your brake fluid every 2 years.

The W24's Quadraulic brakes have not presented any problems that anyone has documented.

[Finhawk]

Hey Driver
Why the need to change. Is is a problem with water entering the system, a crud accumulation, heat or what? Just curious!

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Finhawk:
Hey Driver
Why the need to change. Is is a problem with water entering the system, a crud accumulation, heat or what? Just curious! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Finhawk, Brake fluid is hygroscopic. That means that it has an affinity for water like a sponge.

Trace amounts of moisture enter the hydraulic system by routine use. Over time this intrusion can be significant. You can find out more on-line by Googling "hygroscopic".

Essentially, moisture lowers the boiling point of the fluid and causes internal corrosion in the brake system.

[Finhawk]

I know. The same thing happens in my Studebaker. Thanks for the info
Burce

[John-D]

There are 3 common brake failures that I know of and proper maintenance can prevent 2 of them

One is dependent on which make of breaks you have, And I do not know which one it is, but pins on the brake calipers can seize up if you don't lube them from time to time..Preventive maintenance (lubrication) prevents this problem There are 2 or 3 different brake systems used by Workhorse and .. Well. that affects just one of 'em.

The second one is seizure of the bell crank. The master cylinder is mounted "Transverse" (meaning you push sideways in relation to the drive shaft) The pedal pushes "in-line" (Parallel to the drive shaft) so a bell crank is used to transfer the pressure to the master cylinder... You can see it, right there next to the master cylinder under the hood.

Older Workhorse chasses did not have a provision to lubricate the king pin. Newer ones do. On older ones you can modify the bell crank to allow lubrication, again proper lubrication prevents this problem


The third problem is NOT exclusive to Workhorse, there is a failure mode on a brake line (the hose part) where it basically becomes something like a check valve When you put your foot down it lets fluid into the caliper pushing the pads against the rotor but when you let up.. It does not allow the fluid to return to the master, Keeping that wheel brake "Set" and causing the brakes to overheat, and either the tire to blow or the brakes to fail, when this happens you need new Tire, caliper and rotor (Very expensive) I have had this happen to me one time.. HOWEVER NOT ON THE WORKHORSE

It was my towed. It can happen on any vehicle, not limited to any make and/or model,GM, FORD, Dodge, Freightliner, Workhorse, CAT, _____ don't matter. If it uses a brake hose to connect the wheel cylinder to the metal lines.. (And they all do) then it can fail in this manner.

In short the major brake problem is: Lack of maintenance by the owner.

[Photog]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John-D:
In short the major brake problem is: Lack of maintenance by the owner. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

It seems that some of the folks reporting brake problems claim to have completed the maintenance you recommend, yet they still had the failures.

Is it possible there is another reason for the failures?

[dieselclacker]

Photog, Not only possible, but probable.

In my humble opinion of course.

Dieselclacker

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Photog:
It seems that some of the folks reporting brake problems claim to have completed the maintenance you recommend, yet they still had the failures. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Photog, The question remains unanswered as to whether the maintenance was accomplished proactively or reactively.

It is challenging for most owners to perform routine maintenance on their brakes from the date of purchase when there is nothing wrong with their brakes.

There is no shortage of owners here who have succumbed to a brake anomalies and have taken measures to get their brakes working again. Subsequently maintenance was accomplished however one might wonder, was it in time?

At this time I have all new brakes. I plan on annual brake flushes, and bi-annual pin & slide maintenance. If I can keep from having to buy a full set of brakes prematurely it would have been worth the effort. One thing that I believe works in my favor is the high mileage I apply annually which may exceed 10,000 miles per year and frequent outings. I replaced all my brakes after having achieved more than 60,000 miles. Currently showing 74,000 miles. Brakes are good!

[CoastieSCPO]

So, I have a question. I have a 2004 W-20 which basically is the same as a W-22 with 19.5 tires. I have had a major brake failure which I reported August 2007. We've been good since. Reading DriVers comment concerning the W-24 with Finhawks RV, can I assume that the W-20/22 and W-24 have different braking systems? If so, I gotta get me one! It's possible this question has been discussed already, but I must have had a senior moment.

Bob

[edgray]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Reading DriVers comment concerning the W-24 with Finhawks RV, can I assume that the W-20/22 and W-24 have different braking systems? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
BOB: YES, you can. The W-24 has a "Quadralic" brake system. The calipers have 4 pistons and therefore do not have the slide pins found on the lower GVWR chassis. Larger rotors and pads too, I think. Probably due to the 30,000GCVWR.

AND, the UFO is totally different, and better imo, than the W-24.
ED

[hawg6]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Photog:
It seems that some of the folks reporting brake problems claim to have completed the maintenance you recommend, yet they still had the failures. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Photog, The question remains unanswered as to whether the maintenance was accomplished proactively or reactively.

It is challenging for most owners to perform routine maintenance on their brakes from the date of purchase when there is nothing wrong with their brakes.

There is no shortage of owners here who have succumbed to a brake anomalies and have taken measures to get their brakes working again. Subsequently maintenance was accomplished however one might wonder, was it in time?

At this time I have all new brakes. I plan on annual brake flushes, and bi-annual pin & slide maintenance. If I can keep from having to buy a full set of brakes prematurely it would have been worth the effort. One thing that I believe works in my favor is the high mileage I apply annually which may exceed 10,000 miles per year and frequent outings. I replaced all my brakes after having achieved more than 60,000 miles. Currently showing 74,000 miles. Brakes are good! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>If the maintenance of the brakes is so critical, Workhorse should amend there owners manual to include the service point. It would help to mail an amendment to the owners of the MH's in question, as not all owners use this site. My service center finally admitted the brake problem exists. But, did add that Workhorse would not assist, in any way, on the last brake repair they did. This was the second complete repair of the brakes on this MH. The first included the replacement of the rotors, pads, pins, and teardown calipers-inspect-clean-replace the caliper boots and seals.I believe the first repair was under warranty, but the MH was out of warranty at the second failure. The tech. that did the brake repair said the replacement calipers had steel pistons, while the original piston were phenolic. My replacements pistons are phenolic, not steel. Just curious, do the new calipers for your MH have phenolic or steel pistons? IMO, it appears the problem is the same situation that Chrysler had years ago, where in calipers with phenolic pistons seized up, particularly on cars that were not driven often. (My MH is driven on the average, every couple months, with the longest idle time being three months during the winter in Florida. Had two caliper lock-ups.) The mechanics tell me the fix back then was to replace the calipers with calipers with steel pistons, We will wait and see how the three players decide to address the situation.