brakes 2000 Flair

[frederick w]

Hi
Just bought a 2000 flair 30 ft. 59,000 (workhorse chassis, 4way disk,anti-lock brakes) First MH I ever driven; seems that it takes alot of pedal press. to stop it. Perhaps that's the way they are. No fluid leaks, brake pads seem to be good. power booster? Weak leg

Thanks and warm greetings to everyone.

Fred Rubio, Pasco, WA.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by frederick w Thanks and warm greetings to everyone.

Welcome to iRV2.com.

Please do come back and visit us often.

P Series brakes have always exhibited a very high pedal and it's the nature of the beast. You will find that as you go forward in your ownership that you will find a wealth of information here about your P Series and we have many resources that will be able to assist you.

Welcome and enjoy!

[Petro]

Fred;

Welcome to iRV2. We are glad you found us. In my opinion you have found the premier Internet site for answers to your questions. Post often and share your travel adventures with us. If you have not already done so I would encourage you to go up to the New Member Check In and introduce yourself so more of our members get to know you.

Don

[edgray]

frederick w:

Welcome to iRV2.com ! I also ask that you visit the Workhorse Owners forum down below in the "lifestyles" section of this forum and invite you to look further at: www.wcmc.workhorse.com

I already posted my answers to your concern over on the "other" site.

Enjoy that new coach!
Ed

[oldpa]

I would like to read edgray's reply. What is the other site?

[Max Hubrich]

Fred-

I had a P-30 for 6 years. I rebuilt all the brakes, calipers, wheel cylinders rubber lines, etc and it still took a lot of "Umph" to stop the beast. My problem was finally solved by buying a "Brake Buddy" and using it in the Saturn "toad"- this was the "full time" version of the Brake Buddy. I now have the new Brake Buddy that I can select either full or proportional braking (on the fly). The older unit (original B.B.) would do wonders for your situtation-- I guess your towing a car??

[edgray]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldpa I would like to read edgray's reply. What is the other site?

oldpa: rather than have you chasing all over the internet.....below is what I posted elsewhere:

""frederick:
I'm assuming you have a P32 chassis. If so, what you are describing is "normal" in that those brakes do require a lot of pedal travel (compared to other chassis) and were not known for being too powerful. Unfortunately, unless the tech can find something that needs repair or adjustment, I think you will find "it is what it is". The good news is that these brakes are not part of the infamous Workhorse brake recall for the W-20/22 series chassis.
Ed ""

[oldpa]

Thanks

[InPursuit]

As a general heads up...
Don't "assume" anything regarding the brakes.

KNOW that the fluid is good (flush & fill).
KNOW that the caliper slides are lubricated and actually pulling on both pads.
KNOW that the hoses aren't swollen up from age.
KNOW that BOTH pads are wearing evenly.
KNOW that the (F&R) hubs and axles are well lubricated.

If ANY of the above are issues...
f'rinstance a sticky/frozen caliper slide not pulling so both pads wear unevenly and then the heat bakes the piston seals and the rotor (more a rear brake issue)

Or just to be sure you are OK:
NAPA #86493 = Premium Rear Rotor
NAPA#31870 =National #6358 = Rear axel shaft seal (SKF 31870)
NAPA# SE8595 = Axxis dual piston caliper rebuilt (use all 4 corners)
NAPA #SS7108M pad set =184 metallic (use all 4 corners)
CarQuest # SP9060 = Left Hose -Rear
CarQuest #SP9084 = Right Hose -Rear