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Old 05-07-2018, 12:47 PM   #43
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@ edgray

Would you use the NAPA reman or buy a new Bosch caliper?
I don't know anything about what NAPA's rebuilder actually does. If they don't do even one of the three (3) changes that Bosch implemented when they had to replace all those calipers, they may not work any better than the original design.

Not knowing how much "less" $$$ the remans may be, I can't judge the risk, but I would sure hate to do the job of changing them twice. If you can look at the remans before purchasing them, the "new style" calipers will have a date code STAMPED into the casting directly below the numbers that are molded into the casting. That would at least confirm that it has the correct bore size, and you would think the reman people would know what size piston to install.
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:17 PM   #44
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Thanks for the information Ed...very informative...thanks!

As for my coach I just got the call and estimate.....the left rear got so hot it actually melted part of the caliper carrier which now also has to be replaced($600). The axle also got so hot it ruined the bearings on the left side, so they are recommending both sides to be replaced. Then it's all 4 calipers, 4 rotors, pads, and rubber brake lines. Add the misc stuff and parts came to $3400, then add labor and the tab will be $6450.

They priced out Workhorse parts vs NAPA parts and neither can provide new calipers anymore...they are all re-built. So if I want new it's Brazels and if I remember correct they are around $250 which would add $700 to the above tab.

According to Reeder Chevy that has done a ton of calipers(maybe there still is a problem?) on W series & the rebuilt ones have performed well, so it looks like I will go that route. They will not install the 73mm calipers as I suspected, so if I want those I have to install them myself.

Btw, I am trying to find the carrier plate, or the bracket the caliper mounts to. What is the correct name for it, or does anyone have a part number? I think my best bet might be a motorhome salvage company for it.
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:37 PM   #45
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Im just doing the one caliper and using the workhorse one. I suspect it will be at least a year for you to really know if the remans are a problem.

I would call around at salvages like you mentioned for the caliper carrier. I heard that is a very expensive part...I had no idea.

I am so sorry your bill has climbed so high.
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:43 PM   #46
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I wonder if its a universal w22 part. I would also try truck salvages.
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Old 05-07-2018, 04:41 PM   #47
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Thanks for the information Ed...very informative...thanks!

As for my coach I just got the call and estimate.....the left rear got so hot it actually melted part of the caliper carrier which now also has to be replaced($600). The axle also got so hot it ruined the bearings on the left side, so they are recommending both sides to be replaced. Then it's all 4 calipers, 4 rotors, pads, and rubber brake lines. Add the misc stuff and parts came to $3400, then add labor and the tab will be $6450.

They priced out Workhorse parts vs NAPA parts and neither can provide new calipers anymore...they are all re-built. So if I want new it's Brazels and if I remember correct they are around $250 which would add $700 to the above tab.

According to Reeder Chevy that has done a ton of calipers(maybe there still is a problem?) on W series & the rebuilt ones have performed well, so it looks like I will go that route. They will not install the 73mm calipers as I suspected, so if I want those I have to install them myself.

Btw, I am trying to find the carrier plate, or the bracket the caliper mounts to. What is the correct name for it, or does anyone have a part number? I think my best bet might be a motorhome salvage company for it.
Motor7: That is crazy expensive, IMO. Over $3,000.00 in labor comes to about 25 hours @ shop rate is $120.00 per. Before spending that kind of money I would be seeking a second opinion. I can't imagine how anybody could have driven with a dragging caliper for long enough to do that much damage, or why the brakes didn't catch fire. Sorry, but I've never heard of the "carrier" you asked about.

Likewise, I"m not buying the bit about "Workhorse" not being able to supply new calipers....I'm betting that is where Brazel gets theirs.

Have I already run your vin # ? I "usually" file them by screen name, and don't see yours. If not, I only need the last 8 digits......
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Old 05-07-2018, 05:38 PM   #48
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Motor7: That is crazy expensive, IMO. Over $3,000.00 in labor comes to about 25 hours @ shop rate is $120.00 per. Before spending that kind of money I would be seeking a second opinion. I can't imagine how anybody could have driven with a dragging caliper for long enough to do that much damage, or why the brakes didn't catch fire. Sorry, but I've never heard of the "carrier" you asked about.

Likewise, I"m not buying the bit about "Workhorse" not being able to supply new calipers....I'm betting that is where Brazel gets theirs.

Have I already run your vin # ? I "usually" file them by screen name, and don't see yours. If not, I only need the last 8 digits......
Ed
His did catch fire. He has another thread going on. We had the same problem with different outcomes, both commiserating on our situations in each others threads. . http://www.irv2.com/forums/f59/fmca-...rd-390290.html

BTW we both feel like we are getting shafted. The place I'm stuck at wanted to charge 14 hrs of labor. Got them down to 5 hrs sadly their shop rate for trucks is $150. Im pulling my panties up and getting out of there as soon as I can.
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Old 05-07-2018, 05:57 PM   #49
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The diff oil change, I just changed the oil myself, around $120 for the oil


Idler pulley bearing can be replace for $5, but you can also buy one here
for $25.00
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Serpentine Belt 8.1 $30
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1




Maybe you could buy some of the parts and bring them with you.


I would be curious on how much they are charging you for the above parts.
How challenging is it to do the pulley myself? It is chirping and the belt is in decent shape. I took it off the table after finding out how they are yanking me around with labor.

My mech charges $98 hr, he is a diesel mech primarily. At least I know the money I pay him goes in his pocket.
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Old 05-07-2018, 06:06 PM   #50
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How challenging is it to do the pulley myself? It is chirping and the belt is in decent shape. I took it off the table after finding out how they are yanking me around with labor.

My mech charges $98 hr, he is a diesel mech primarily. At least I know the money I pay him goes in his pocket.
Easy, not that difficult.

Use a 1/2" breaker bar and rotate the tensioner up towards the dog house, then slip off the serpentine belt. I cant remember the size of bolt for the idler pulley, but its metric, one bolt through the center, 37lbs is the torque spec for the bolt. once replaced rotate tensioner up again, and slip back on the serpentine belt.

Everything is done from the ground looking up.
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Old 05-07-2018, 06:12 PM   #51
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Don't throw away the old idler pulley, Kevin who post a lot of great videos here on IRV2, owns a lawn mower repair shop, and sells the replacement bearing for the pulley, replace the bearing for $5 and have a spare, the bearing also is the same one for the tensioner pulley.


K&T Parts House - Universal-Most Common Items - Ball Bearings Deck Bearings Wheel Bearings and Bushings - Bearing Ball Id 21/32", Od 1-9/16", Height 15/32"
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Old 05-07-2018, 06:31 PM   #52
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FF, the Serp belt, idler and pulley will take about 45min laying on your back. IT's really not that hard and i have a thread on it somewhere here with part numbers, some are the same as the Chevy Kodiak 8.1

I am not going to have the dealership do all the work quoted, but I have to say I actually think their numbers are reasonable:





That's 10.5 hrs labor for replacing both axle bearings(although I have to ask why the front bearings?), all rotors, all brake lines, all calipers, all pads, the damn $600 caliper bracket, and some misc parts.

So here is where I am at now. I am going to have them do the rear bearings and seals - both sides. It's not on the estimate, but I want the emergency brake adjusted or fixed to where it will hold the coach on a slope(it won't after the grenade). Then I have it towed home and I start collecting parts. The rest is basically just swap and bolt on, then bleed brakes.

Ed, you ran my vin for me last year...the last 8 are:

43384281
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Old 05-07-2018, 06:36 PM   #53
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FF, serp belt thread...sorry I didn't include part numbers. But remove the pulley and tensioner then take the with you to the auto parts store:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/w20-s...um-364507.html
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Old 05-07-2018, 07:12 PM   #54
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FF, the Serp belt, idler and pulley will take about 45min laying on your back. IT's really not that hard and i have a thread on it somewhere here with part numbers, some are the same as the Chevy Kodiak 8.1

I am not going to have the dealership do all the work quoted, but I have to say I actually think their numbers are reasonable:





That's 10.5 hrs labor for replacing both axle bearings(although I have to ask why the front bearings?), all rotors, all brake lines, all calipers, all pads, the damn $600 caliper bracket, and some misc parts.

So here is where I am at now. I am going to have them do the rear bearings and seals - both sides. It's not on the estimate, but I want the emergency brake adjusted or fixed to where it will hold the coach on a slope(it won't after the grenade). Then I have it towed home and I start collecting parts. The rest is basically just swap and bolt on, then bleed brakes.

Ed, you ran my vin for me last year...the last 8 are:

43384281
How much is the tow back home? 120 miles?
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Old 05-07-2018, 07:30 PM   #55
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It's going to be under $300...I think
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Old 05-07-2018, 07:34 PM   #56
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It's going to be under $300...I think
Not too shabby Sounds like your postponing your trip, sorry about that, best of luck getting your parts and running again.




I would give Jon a call at Ultra RV, they may have that caliper bracket hanging/laying around, maybe someone here who did the 73mm caliper swap still has the old bracket. Just some ideas.
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