Can I charge AC on 2006 W24?

[johnandcaren]

OK, I already know this may be a bad idea, hence some research.

We have only had our 2007 W24 Gulf Stream since last fall, so didn't know the AC was not cooling. Its Monday and we leave for a week long trip Friday so there is not time to get it into a service center. I'd like to put in one can of refrigerent to try and get at lease some cooling. I did this for years on older cars (not professionally), but back in the 80's and now things are different.

How practical is it to add a can myself? I have the hose (but no gauges). Since I cannot tell if the oil leaked out as well, what danger does that pose?

PS - It was a new unit, never sold. Dealer said bring it in and they'd fix it. So we did. Their reply when we picked it up was, its not cooling so you better take it to a professional. Hard to believe dealers sometimes.

[bigskymt]

You can buy a can of 134 at Walmart with a hose and guage for about $20. It includes freon and oil and sometimes sealant and even dye to check for leaks. They may void your warranty though.
You never mentioned if your compressor engages or not.

[johnandcaren]

Thanks.
Knowing the charge has oil helps, and the number 134 also as I've been out of touch. Good warranty point.

[bsinmich]

If this AC has never been run I would be very careful about adding oil to it. If there is no leak of oil anyplace you probably don't need extra oil. There is a possibility that the AC was never charged properly in the first place. If the coach sat on a lot for 2 years prior to purchase or use it could easily have leaked the refrigerant. If the compressor is not running when it is calling for cooling you have to get the cutout switch on the compressor bypassed to even add the gas. If you don't know what you are doing you could be voiding the warranty. I would just run the generator and the roof air for this trip and then let it get fixed properly, under the warranty.

[JC2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsinmich If this AC has never been run I would be very careful about adding oil to it. If there is no leak of oil anyplace you probably don't need extra oil. There is a possibility that the AC was never charged properly in the first place. If the coach sat on a lot for 2 years prior to purchase or use it could easily have leaked the refrigerant. If the compressor is not running when it is calling for cooling you have to get the cutout switch on the compressor bypassed to even add the gas. If you don't know what you are doing you could be voiding the warranty. I would just run the generator and the roof air for this trip and then let it get fixed properly, under the warranty.

I also agree with the above post. I would, however, see if another dealer would/could do this as the one you purchased it from doesn't seem to have a clue.

[Mr JP]

I agree with the other post. I had almost the same problem with mine but it was used. My son is an auto mechanic. with a a/c cert. he evacuated the system and recharged with oil. Also we found that the whole top part of the unit (Evans Tempcon) had broke away. So when the blower blew air it was being sucked in from around the firewall and not through the evaporator. We fixed that problem and I have cold air now. Just an area to look at. Good luck

[johnandcaren]

I'm OP and grateful for all your time (or times).

Probably will not try as I cannot evacuate and the oil is a genuine comment.

The comment on making sure the Evans part is not loose is a good one. Sometimes it cools a little - poorly. But last Friday it was 91 outside, 97.5 inside, and the air temp from the vent was 98.0.

The guy recommend gen is correct, but my unit has only 2 problems now. One is AC and the other is - of course - the gen has a problem. Runs great but no voltage, so that's a trip to Onan in the near future.

[bsinmich]

Some days it just doesn't pay to get out of bed. Have you checked for tripped fuses on the generator? That could be a simple thing and avoid a trip. Hope you enjoy your trip. I am assuming this RV is new to you. Some MHs have to be plugged in to an outlet in the compartment with the power cord to get the power from the generator to the MH. This saved the expense of an automatic transfer switch and also avoided any problems with one in the future.

[BellaBo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnandcaren I'm OP and grateful for all your time (or times). Probably will not try as I cannot evacuate and the oil is a genuine comment. The comment on making sure the Evans part is not loose is a good one. Sometimes it cools a little - poorly. But last Friday it was 91 outside, 97.5 inside, and the air temp from the vent was 98.0. The guy recommend gen is correct, but my unit has only 2 problems now. One is AC and the other is - of course - the gen has a problem. Runs great but no voltage, so that's a trip to Onan in the near future.

If your A/C doesn't blow cold air in "Max" position it probably isn't the Evans valve.
The circuit breakers on the generator is a good idea. Pull off the panel covering the genset and there are two breakers on the left side of the unit.

[jeepfreak]

I would buy the refrigerant with the gauge. IF when you put on the gauge (make sure it's on the suction side) and have 0 pressure and you can't get it somewhere before you leave , mine states on a tag on the evaporator box under the hood that it takes 2 lbs. It's up to you.

[DriVer]

The AC Tech that works on my rig draws out all the refrigerant with a service machine and holds it in storage in the onboard recovery tanks.

When he recharges the system he does it from scratch and brings up the system and has adjusted the pressure to as much as a few ounces/psi one way or another until the temperature probe in the dash vent gave us the best reading. It takes time to do it in this way but my system has been working very well. Typically 20° temperature difference (cooler) is the number you are shooting for.

Having the correct amount of charge/pressure is critical.

[FrostyTexas]

You certainly can add some freon. You can buy the freon, charging hose, and a small device that looks like a tire guage that you can use to determine what range your freon pressure is after you add some freon. Add some until your compressor stops cycling and then check the pressure with the guage, and add more if you need to. PM me if you have any questions.

[Don and Kim]

Our dash A/C is marginal at best also. I have put a gauge on the low and high sides. I see less than 50 psi on the low side and about 150 on the high side w/ac on. With the doghouse cover off, I attempted to turn the compressor and it seems very hard to turn by hand. Has anyone tried to turn the compressor? (obviously engine off, clutch off) Just curious if it should be difficult to turn by hand.

[jeepfreak]

The compressor should be hard to turn by hand as your compressing the the refrigerant that is in the cylinders, thats why it's called a compressor. If you can feel the suction line thats on the compressor ( be carefull as the other line is the discharge line and that should be HOT) it should be cold and possibily sweating. That is a sign that thing are normal or very close to normal. By the way it should be running with a/c on.