Change oil before winter or in spring?

[Bug512]

Well we are coming up on our anniversary of owning our Winnebago and were wondering if I should change the engine (and generator) oil before putting her away for winter or is it best to do it in the spring when it comes out of hibernation ?

Or do we do it before the winter and after the first trip in the spring.

Wondering what you all do and why.

Thanks !

[RVRon]

I always change mine prior to winter storage to remove whatever contaminants have accumulated in the oil. Other people may have other opinions or procedures, but this is what I feel is best....

[GreatWhite]

Before storage makes the best sense, IMO. There is moisture and acids that build up in dirty oil. That oil is distributed throughout your engine. Get it changed early and drive it enough to get the engine good and warm.. enough to evaporate all the moisture in the sump and get everything well coated with fresh. I think your engine will be happier.

[Tom-NC]

I agree with everyone change your oil before you put it in storage as the contaminants in the oil with eat at your engine so they tell me.

My oil gets changes every 4K miles anyhow, however I use my RV and never actually put it in storage plus it is parked next to my garage so it is always ready to go and is plugged in to AC 24/7.

Something else to consider and that is your batteries while in storage. Keep them fully charged and turn off battery switch unless you have power to keep it plugged in and then check your fluid levels in batteries often.

The other thing would be not to put it in storage and to use it, Good Luck.

[DrScott]

Add one more to the agree list. I do the same for the motorcycles for the same reasons.

[FreshAir]

I also agree to change before a long storage. While on the subject of storage/winterizing you may want to investigate the idea of adding a fuel stabilizer of some kind. With current gasoline and ethanol issues I feel that with long term storage, the possibility of fuel problems should be considered.

Pat

[TXiceman]

ALWAYS store it with a fresh change of oil in the engine and generator. Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank and fill it up.

Ken

[Bug512]

What fuel stabilizer are you using ?

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bug512 What fuel stabilizer are you using ?

Always store your engine with a fresh load of oil and use STA-BIL in the fuel system. Allow the generator to run for about an hour so it pulls up some of the Sta-Bil as well.

[UFO Pilot]

Just curious, what do you consider as putting the RV in storage? Ours is on the road at least one outing per month, most times twice a month thru out the year. Winters are not severe here and it rarely freezes. I always fill the gas tank before it gets parked at the storage lot.

[Bug512]

First off let me thank you for all the replies.

Winter storage will be from the time we gat back from Washington DC on November 12th to mid - end of March. Here in Northern NJ campgrounds start closing around Columbus day.

So my plan is the change the engine oils before storage for the winter months.

Fill gas tank and treat with fuel stabilizer.

Run engine and generator to ensure proper treatment of fuel.

Perform normal winterization of freshwater and holding tanks.

Do any of you stat the engine (or generator) during the hibernation months? I'm not sure I would want to take her out on the road with all the salt that is applied during that time.

Thanks again..

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bug512 Do any of you stat the engine (or generator) during the hibernation months? I'm not sure I would want to take her out on the road with all the salt that is applied during that time.

I have found that once you turn the thing OFF leave it that way until you get ready to get back on the road. Just starting the engine without running it up to its full operational temperature range is not good for the engine. It's like riding a horse and putting it away wet. You should pull your batteries and have them on a sustainer, float, conditioner over the winter. If you have a 120v plug there you can place them on a battery minder and keep your batteries healthy.

[Bug512]

Thanks. The motorhome is plugged in and I have a battery minder for both the coach and chassis battery.

When the coach batteries are connected to the battery minder I turn off (disconnect) the battery switch from the converter / charger.

I think the battery minder will do a better job.

[davebw31]

just my 2 cents as a retired succesefull 35 yrs as a fleet mgr. of the 4th largest school bus fleet in the USA:

I leave the oil as is during storage as long as it is BELOW time/milage for when it is to be changed IE hrs. for the generator and mileage/time for the engine. Of course Sat-Bil in the fuel tank using the long term mix recomended by Sat-Bil. I always, always run the engine and gen-set every month for 1/2 hour, to burnt/evaporate any mositure. I have a charger/maintainer/Pulse Tech (for de-sulfication of plates) installed for the batteries (using AGM house Bat), coach and eng. start, which are also on a 30 amp PPH controller with 80 watt solar panel as back up. I have been RV'ing since I was 23 yrs old and I am now almost 67! I know this PM maintance works as I have from time to time sent out to my lab oil samples from time to time. I believe that changing oil prior to storage is a waste of oil and thus effects are enviroment!

Todays Syn. oils rated by the oil industry are far superior to mineral oils. The additive packages although low in zinc, phosphate, and low in sulfate (a lubricant), in modern eng. provide superior lube and protection against high heat eng. temps. due to emmissions.

BTW: I use Mobile One 5W30 in my MH chassis eng. ( 2 qt. A/C filter) and Rotella Syn. 15W40 in my Onan gen-set ( NAPA or Baldwin filter).

In my 62,700 original mile 70' muscle car I use reg. Penzoil 10W30 oil, but I add 5 oz of an PZZF additive since the new formulated oils have elminated the zinc, phosphate, and sulfur, which without it, it effects wear on flat tappet cams.