Chassis Electrical Gremlin-FIXED???

edgray · 04-08-2010, 07:14 PM

Thought I would post my "problem" and what I did to "fix" it, in hopes someone else may benefit from my experience.

After stopping for gas immediately after leaving a CG this AM, I could not re-start the motor. This same thing happened a few days ago after a short stop at a rest area after driving ~150 miles. The coach has been driven hundreds of miles with many sucessful starts between these two incidents. Both times, turning the key only resulted in the entire IP cluster going "berserk" with all the lights and gauges cycling on and off repeatedly, and a "whirring" sound I don't normally hear at startup, and I'm not talking about the brake booster pump motor because my foot was off the pedal.

The first time this happened, all I did was keep "trying" and it finally engaged the starter and away we went, but with the "check engine" light on. Everything ran fine at highway speeds, but the light did not go off until after we were stopped overnight.

Today's incident lasted much longer, and I was beginning to think we would have to start up the Vue and push the MH away from the 2 gas pumps we were blocking. I tried "everything" I could think of, including setting and releasing the parking brake, tilting the steering wheel and turning it back and forth, shifting in and out of park, etc but nothing I tried made any difference. The cluster was still going berserk with the key in the "on" position, and the starter was not engaging when the key was advanced to "start" position.

Out of desperation, I decided to try "rebooting" the computer (ECM) and I disconnected the chassis battery, thinking that removing the power source might allow whatever was wrong to reset itself. IT WORKED !!!

After removing the negative cable from the battery, and then reattaching it a minute or two later, the entire dash cluster behaved normally, and the motor started without problem instantly. This time there was no check engine light.

So, my "recommendation" to anybody having starting or IP cluster issues is to try disconnecting the battery. That is ALL I did to "fix" my problem and all it takes is a 5/16" wrench, and a minute or two.

I was sure glad to be away from those pumps, even though I gave them $150.00, I was not feeling welcome after I stopped pumping and started sitting.

Ed

gbs2320 · 04-08-2010, 07:29 PM

Thanks for the tip! I guess the chassis computer is just like my PC -- when it screws up the first thing to try is a reboot/restart. Recently even that did not work and after hours of trying different things all knowing google suggested I try a hard reboot -- which is done by disconnecting the pc from 120 volt, remove battery and then hold down the power button for 30 seconds and then replace battery and restart. It worked and the pc now would access the c drive and load up the programs. The bios apparently was corrupted and fixed by a hard reboot. Apparently anything with a computer including our chassis benefits from the same approach sometimes. Greg

DriVer · 04-09-2010, 07:47 AM

What we all all driving now days is nothing more than a 10 ton rolling computer with automotive components. There is little that resembles a motorhome made in the 1980-1990s from our rigs other than steel wheels.

In my most recent long range trip in returning from Louisville, I experienced a backfire issue on heavy throttle application. I found out later that I actually lost the #7 plug wire.

We pulled into a rest stop on the highway for lunch, I disconnected the battery for about 30 minutes. Afterward I connected the battery and started the engine everything seemed to be working well or much better than before. On moderate throttle applications the major backfire event had disappeared so I wasn't going to push it. There remained a low impact ocassional miss however it no longer issued a backfire. We made it the 150 miles back home and I was able to resolve the problem.

I agree with Ed and I would not hesitate to repeat that process if I thought that I could perhaps clear some type of fault in the computer. It's the least expensive thing that you can do that may yield positive results other than going through the hassle of getting towed.

max49 · 04-09-2010, 06:06 PM

"Chassis Electrical Gremlin-FIXED???'

That's a great tip ED. I'll have to remember that possible temporary fix. But the gremlin is still lurking in there some where.
I think my chassis is an 'electrical gremlin refugee camp'

DriVer · 04-09-2010, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by max49

"I think my chassis is an 'electrical gremlin refugee camp"

Max, Does anyone remember the Twilight Zone episode staring Wm. Shatner where there was a Gremlin out on the wing of the airplane? I expect that any number of us will have the same expression when these anonymous computer hiccups pop up from time to time!

I had a similar no start situation happen to me on the Interstate but I had an excuse .... we were struck by lightning a few days prior!

Just as we were about to throw in the towel, that ol Vortec fired up and we made it all the way back to South Carolina without any further incidents ... aside from the fried TCM which needed to be replaced.

TBI · 04-09-2010, 07:48 PM

Ed, that is referred to as a "Poughkeepsie Reset". The actual cause can probably never be located. When all else fails, remove all power and let it set for a few minutes and then retry. It works on most things with some type of a processor in it.

max49 · 04-09-2010, 09:17 PM

I could try it on my gremlins. My latest gremlin to surface is on a turn signal indicator that works if the pk/ head lights are off but does'nt if the lights are on, but only on the left side, even though the outside signals are in fact working. I'm wondering if my aternatingly blinking side clearance lights that are grounded through the hot wire for the turn signal wires is some how the culprit.