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Coach dual battery set wiring help
03-09-2010, 01:03 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 217
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I have two sets of 6volt AGM Lifeline batteries. (Four batteries total) I know how to wire each set in series. However I do not want to wire the sets in parallel. I will install a Perko switch so that I can draw down each set in turn. (Stops parasitic draw) My problem is understanding how to wire the incoming charge line so both batteries will charge without having to switch between sets of batteries to charge the battery sets. My coach has the Intellitec system of mechanical solenoids/isolators. I think an electronic isolator downstream of the Intellitec would work unless it causes some feedback into the Intellitec system. Has anyone ever wired up units the way I want or have a better understanding what wiring will work?
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2005 30' Rexhall Vision, W-22 chassis, 19.5 tires, 208'' factory WB, 6000 CCC
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03-16-2010, 01:56 AM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Monaco Owners Club Excel Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hangin' with Sacs and the Pins
Posts: 9,399
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scoutmstr...It looks like you may have to get a bit more tech support that we can answer here...
Good Luck
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MM
*MonacoMama with the 2 Pins & SacsTC Nearby* *2007 Monaco Diplomat 40' SFT<>2006 Chevy VortecMax Toad<>2006 Buick Lucerne Leading the Way*
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03-16-2010, 03:43 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Vintage RV Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 106
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If your Intellitec converter can charge both batteries at the same time (which I believe most can), you should be able to install your Perko battery switch as the very last thing going to your battery banks (which in your case are two sets of 6V batteries each functioning as a 12V battery). Keeping the Perko on the "Both" setting would mean they are connected in parallel, for charging, and you would choose either the "1" or "2" setting for running your 12V appliances. But you would have to remember to go bach to the "Both" setting each time you charge up otherwise only the currently selected battery (bank) would be recharged.
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'87 Fleetwood Tioga Arrow
If you're in a hurry, you shouldn't be RV'ing
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03-16-2010, 11:39 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: KAPOLEI, HAWAII AND VANCOUVER, WASHINGTON
Posts: 1,846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoutmstr
I have two sets of 6volt AGM Lifeline batteries. (Four batteries total) I know how to wire each set in series. However I do not want to wire the sets in parallel. I will install a Perko switch so that I can draw down each set in turn. (Stops parasitic draw) My problem is understanding how to wire the incoming charge line so both batteries will charge without having to switch between sets of batteries to charge the battery sets. My coach has the Intellitec system of mechanical solenoids/isolators. I think an electronic isolator downstream of the Intellitec would work unless it causes some feedback into the Intellitec system. Has anyone ever wired up units the way I want or have a better understanding what wiring will work?
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this resource may be of some help.
The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)
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01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks
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03-19-2010, 03:59 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonacoMama
scoutmstr...It looks like you may have to get a bit more tech support that we can answer here...
Good Luck
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I agree. If I can design it I'll post the answer and diagram.
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2005 30' Rexhall Vision, W-22 chassis, 19.5 tires, 208'' factory WB, 6000 CCC
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03-20-2010, 10:44 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,078
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If you want to charge both batteries you set the Perko switch to BOTH. there are basically 3 ways to do it
One is diodes and this is a problem cause there is voltage drop in the diodes
The next is to use two chargers. One for each set of batteries
And the best is the "BOTH" setting on the switch
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Home is where I park it!
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03-20-2010, 10:49 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Damon Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,078
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The problem, with what you want is the only way to charge both batteries at one time without the switch in the "BOTH" position is to use some kind of isolator, and the only kind that completly keeps the batteries isolated is a diode isolator.
And these have voltage drop so unless you can increase the voltage out from teh converter.. You won't ever get full charge on the batteries
A common Diode Isolator will work, Get one with a current rating equal or greater than your converter (IE: 60 amp converter 90 amp isolator)
Converter out to common terminal,
Each "Side" terminal to a battery bank
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Home is where I park it!
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03-22-2010, 05:21 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm
The problem, with what you want is the only way to charge both batteries at one time without the switch in the "BOTH" position is to use some kind of isolator, and the only kind that completly keeps the batteries isolated is a diode isolator.
And these have voltage drop so unless you can increase the voltage out from teh converter.. You won't ever get full charge on the batteries
A common Diode Isolator will work, Get one with a current rating equal or greater than your converter (IE: 60 amp converter 90 amp isolator)
Converter out to common terminal,
Each "Side" terminal to a battery bank
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I don't mind a diode isolator, last coach had one without any problems for me. I don't charge batteries with converter since I'm rarely on 110V. Alternator charge is what charges my batteries on the road. The Intellitec uses the same cable for charging and for load (bidirectional current flow but not at the same time). So my current thinking is to use the 2ga battery cable coming from the Intellitec single battery disconnect and Load "box" as the load side.By using the Perko switch, I can select which set of batteries to draw down first. Then by installing a diode insolator between the alternator and the batteries, I have both being charged but not cross drained. This would entail running a new wire from the alternator and the diode isolator and then branching from the isolator to the two batteries...
After rereading this I know what I said but am unsure if it's written clearly enough for anyone else to follow it.
With some help on how to post a diagram, I'll do that and maybe better explain it. But before I do that, is anyone interested in doing a system like I'm doing. If not , there's really no reason to publish it.
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2005 30' Rexhall Vision, W-22 chassis, 19.5 tires, 208'' factory WB, 6000 CCC
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