Coolant change

Mabry · 07-30-2010, 01:42 PM

Read alot of post about changing the coolant. a couple of questions tho. how effective is just moving the bottom radiator hose only?. Have a 2005 southwind on a raised chassis and the hose is real easy to get to ,the block plugs would kinda be hard to get to tho. I gotta a estimate from my workhorse shop at 1and a half hours plus coolant @ 21.00 a gal. thats concentrate i sure

. Your thoughts appreciated. thanks Mabry

DriVer · 07-30-2010, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mabry

Your thoughts appreciated. thanks Mabry

Mabry, Are you wanting to do this yourself or are you asking if 1.5 Hrs plus parts is fair.

Removing the lower hose will dump pretty much dump the system.

I think that if you can get a service center to do this for you have them change the T-Stat also. If you can get in and drive away without having to deal with recovering the old coolant and disposing of it, I'd say that's a good thing.

Mabry · 07-30-2010, 07:23 PM

Driver; Thinking aboutdoing it my self,if the shop does it my cost is going to total at about $350 counting the cost of gas as my WH shop is 75 miles one way,not counting the thermostat change and how important is that change? my coach has only 16000 miles on it. just that its going on 5@half years old. My only problem should be getting the bottom hose off. Am I correct on this?

Thanks Driver Mabry

TrekPR · 07-30-2010, 09:10 PM

Mabry,

You may need to get to those plugs to get all the air out of the engine. I had my coolant changed and had to head back to the shop after traveling a couple of miles because I was overheating. If air is trapped on the wrong side of the thermostat it will not open and the engine will overheat.

DriVer · 07-31-2010, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mabry

Driver; Thinking aboutdoing it my self,if the shop does it my cost is going to total at about $350 counting the cost of gas as my WH shop is 75 miles one way,not counting the thermostat change and how important is that change? my coach has only 16000 miles on it. just that its going on 5@half years old. My only problem should be getting the bottom hose off. Am I correct on this?

Mabry, You can reference Oemtech's technical library about the coolant change proceedure. If you pull your T-Stat (yes please replace it) and pull the lower hose, you will drain the system down pretty much all the way. Remove the cap on the radiator. Remove the recovery bottle and clean it as well.

Oemy's UltraPower Performance

Mabry · 07-31-2010, 01:10 PM

Driver; If air gets trapped in the radiator how do you get it out? I found one of the brass plugs on the side of the blk. (driver side lookig from front) looks easy to get to.what kind wrench fits that plug? just wondering whats the reason changing the t-stat ? do you do it at every change? If that plug is taken out and the hose off then that should empty it...correct?

Thanks for all the info..

Mabry

DriVer · 07-31-2010, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mabry

Thanks for all the info..

Mabry, Read this first.....

How The Motorhome Coolant Overflow Reservoir Works

FDchief · 07-31-2010, 04:21 PM

Mabry, firstly, congratulations on the decision to R&R your coolant. It is very easy to do. Make sure you purchase some dex-cool or equivalent coolant. Yo do not need to remove the plugs as very little coolant is left in the journals. Removing the lower radiator hose will drain the block and the raditor. Flush the radiator with clean water. If you want to fill the radiator with water and run the motor. Then drain again. You can remove air in the system by partially removing the upper radiator hose at the engine. You may lose a little coolant but not much. With the system full, run the engine to operating temperature. Replace the cap and be sure to fill the reservoir to the cold line. When the motor cools, top off the reservoir. Your done.

Mabry · 08-02-2010, 10:59 AM

Thanks for the information. Have couple of questions tho. I can get to the bottom hose real easy and the top one to if its the same diameter hose that is the top left corner on the drivers side, this hose has a spring clamp on it . Hope this is it, i can see no other hose unless i remove the dog house which would be a real chore to do. also when you said to remove the top hose to get the air out you do it with the engine running? BY the way are you a retired fire man? I retired off a small volunteer dept here in N.C. 22 years

FDchief · 08-02-2010, 11:34 AM

You are right about the location on top of the motor for the radiator hose. Mine was easier to reach with the dog house removed, mine is easy to remove.

Just slide the hose off enough to slip a small scewdriver into the top between the housing and the hose. This leaves the hose on at the bottom. When you start having coolant visible from the top of the hose your good to go. Just replace the hose and clamp. This is all done with the engine off and ucold.

Now fill the radiator and the reservoir tank. With the radiator cap off, start the motor and let it warm up with the heater controls on. Once the water level drops in the radiator and the water is circulating, replace the cap and your done.

After the engine cools you will probably have to add water to the reservoir tank. I wouldn't worry about changing the thermostat unless it is a problem.

DriVer · 08-02-2010, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FDchief

After the engine cools you will probably have to add water to the reservoir tank. I wouldn't worry about changing the thermostat unless it is a problem.

FDChief, If this owner has a choice and he is accomplishing a full cooling system service, I would recommend replacing the T-Stat. It's easy to do and inexpensively accomplished. Working in the trade as a HD mechanic replacing the T-Stat was a common occurrence.

I would also not recommend to anyone that they just add water to their cooling system. Please only consider adding a 50/50 mixture of coolant in all cases especially with Dexcool.

FDchief · 08-02-2010, 06:17 PM

Hey Driver, how are you? If you'll notice in my first post, I suggested to refill the system with Dex-cool or equivalent, even though I assumed that a minimum 50/50 mix would be replenished after the final drain. But, I stand corrected for omitting it.

In regards to the T-stat, in my years of also working on fire apparatus, we found that even though T-stats fail, it is not common, and when they do it is in the open position. And when replacing, leaks can develope. It is easily replaced at anytime with minimal coolant loss. Our thought is why fix what ain't broke!

Also Mabry, if you run fresh water through the system without removing the block plugs, when you do add your coolant mix, make it a 60/40 mix that way you know your good with what was left in the jackets.

DriVer · 08-02-2010, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FDchief

In regards to the T-stat, in my years of also working on fire apparatus, we found that even though T-stats fail, it is not common, and when they do it is in the open position. And when replacing, leaks can develop. It is easily replaced at anytime with minimal coolant loss. Our thought is why fix what ain't broke!

FDchief, That's why they made you a Chief!