Coolant, slow leak through plug on l/h side of engine

[Knightly]

I have a 2007 Itasca, 35' with 8.1 workhorse enigne. I found a slow coolant leak from a recessed, threaded plug on the top, left hand side of the enigine. Aniti-freeze is slowly leaking out of the plug and then runs down onto the exhaust manifold and evaporates. I first noticed the fluid dropping in the overflow tank and started looking around for signs of a leak, but never found anything obvious until yesterday.

Any suggestions on the best way to remove the plug, seal the threads? I suspect I will lose a certain amount of coolant?

Thanks.

[ga traveler]

Just remove the plug and let it flow out until it gets beow the level of the plug. When it stops running dry it off as best you can. Then wrap the plug in teflon tape and reinstall. If you use teflon tape, the parts will not have to be completly dry.

[TrekPR]

I just tighten the plug a little several years ago with no problems with it to date. I did not remove it before hand.

[edgray]

This issue has been discussed here several times before, so you may find more info by doing a search. However, I think you will find the plug needs a 1/2 square drive ratchet extension to be inserted directly into the plug. Try tightening it first as that may do the trick. Otherwise, remove and apply teflon tape as suggested above.

Another way to stop these minor leaks is to purchase from a GM dealer's parts counter the "coolant tablets", which are actually ground up walnut shells. You need to crush them into a fine powder and add directly to the radiator while the engine is circulating the water. Be sure to remove the radiator cap BEFORE starting the engine, and let it warm up so the T-stat is open before adding the powder.

[kennersonf]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrekPR I just tighten the plug a little several years ago with no problems with it to date. I did not remove it before hand.

I too just tightened mine without removing it. I did this about a year after buying the motorhome new in 2003. Never leaked since.

[Full-Timers]

Yes this is typical. Even thought Workhorse says the cure is to add their stopleak. I would NOT add any type of stopleak to my engine. Fix it the right way and never have a problem again.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers I would NOT add any type of stopleak to my engine. Fix it the right way and never have a problem again.

I agree however that said it is common practice at GM where a tablet, 1 or 2 at the most, is added to the systems before they ship. This of course is in a vehicle ready to ship and not a long block.

Fix the problem and you should not need any stop leak.

[Knightly]

Thank you for the prompt responses. I tried the easiest way first; tightening the plug without removing it. My 3/8's drive rachet extension fit the plug perfectly. I was surprised at how loose it was! I am pretty certain that the leak is stopped but I won't know for sure until the next trip.

Thanks to everybody that responded with a suggestion.

May all your driving be down hill with tailwinds!

Cheers, Knightly

2007 35' Itasca, W24 chassis, Blue ox tow bar, Toad: HHR

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Knightly Thank you for the prompt responses. I tried the easiest way first; tightening the plug without removing it. My 3/8's drive rachet extension fit the plug perfectly. I was surprised at how loose it was! I am pretty certain that the leak is stopped but I won't know for sure until the next trip.

You will find that if it's at all tight it won't leak. I had a tiny leak and just a little bit more of a turn stopped it. My point is that it does not have to be torqued like a head bolt. NPT is supposed to work like that.