Cooling air to prevent burned plug wires

[Navl AV8R]

There are problems with burned plug wires on WH chassis'.

Although I do not have any problems with burned wires (after 25k miles) does it make sense to install a home made cooling systemfor my W22? I am thinking of a simple system made out of ducting material and directing the cooler air to the area between the engine and dog house cover?

Any thoughts?

Thanks

[Navl AV8R]

There are problems with burned plug wires on WH chassis'.

Although I do not have any problems with burned wires (after 25k miles) does it make sense to install a home made cooling systemfor my W22? I am thinking of a simple system made out of ducting material and directing the cooler air to the area between the engine and dog house cover?

Any thoughts?

Thanks

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Naval Aviator:
There are problems with burned plug wires on WH chassis'. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Naval Aviator, Thank you for your service to our country.

The Workhorse chassis as it is delivered to the OEM does not have plug wire burnout problems. This event only occurs when the chassis is incorporated with certain "few" coach designs. For any number of reasons the local area in and around the back spark plugs could and has overheated to the point where a wire failed. To alleviate this condition a cold air vent kit was developed by Workhorse. Overheating or burning out spark plug wires is not consistent with the majority of owners - most plug wires do not fail.

I have an 03 Winnebago on a 38 foot motorhome and I have never had a plug wire failure in over 65,700 miles.

If you have not had a plug wire failure after having clocked up 25,000 miles then I would suggest that it's unlikely that it will happen.

Concluding, there is no good reason to fix something that isn't broke.

I'm sitting at Pecan Grove RV Resort in JAX off the approach end of RW25 at the moment. Later this morning we'll be making our way to the Central Florida Fairground.

[JC2]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Naval Aviator:
There are problems with burned plug wires on WH chassis'.

Although I do not have any problems with burned wires (after 25k miles) does it make sense to install a home made cooling systemfor my W22? I am thinking of a simple system made out of ducting material and directing the cooler air to the area between the engine and dog house cover?

Any thoughts?

Thanks </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

As DriVer has stated, your chances of heated related plug wire failure is minimal if you've made it this far. I might suggest that if you indeed want to create a DIY setup, a frequent contributor to this site, (OEMTECH) has info I believe on his webite.
http://oemys-performance.com/

[scoutmstr]

If you're interested in making your own with the same parts WCC uses do a search on my name I posted it some time ago

[Navl AV8R]

Thanks for the responses. I didn't want to fix what isn't broken, but did not know if burned wires were a problem waiting to happen. Guess I'll leave well enough alone.

For DriVer -

Was talking to a friend today re the brake problems on WH chassis and he mentioned that his 2000 Safari DP had dragging brakes (front wheels only) in 2002. Calipers were replaced under warranty but the mechanic suggested to also replace all the flexible brake lines as well. He did so for another $50.

As I understand the reasoning, the mechanic was of the belief that since in heavy stop and go traffic the brake fluid temps at the caliper can get very high this can cause distortion (or partial blockage) inside the rubber brake line at or near the caliper. The result is that the distortion can act as a pinch point and not allow fluid to properly drain away from the caliper, resulting in dragging brakes. My friend had the hoses replaced and has not had another problem with them in the past 50+k miles.

Haven't seen any discussions about flexible brake lines in any brake problem posts I have read, and thought it might be something to consider. Just my 2 cents worth.

Thanks again for your responses to the burned wires.

[Navl AV8R]

DriVer said <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I'm sitting at Pecan Grove RV Resort in JAX off the approach end of RW25 at the moment. Later this morning we'll be making our way to the Central Florida Fairground. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

From 1973-76 I was stationed at NAS Cecil Field, not far from Jax. Had a great time there. BTW - Is Pecan Grove a good visit? Will be going through through JAX in May and may want to use it. We are in Englewood, FL. If you get down this way sometime we'll buy lunch.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Naval Aviator:
BTW - Is Pecan Grove a good visit? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Completely paved, full hookups, cement sites what's not to like. Price was also good. I recommend that you stop by if you need a nice place to stay.

[Max Hubrich]

Hello Naval Aviator,

I had a similiar problem with my old Holiday Rambler (P-30) with the rubber brake hoses a few years ago. I had replaced the calipers, new pads, and had the rotors turned. When I applied the brakes it would pull in one direction. I then replaced one hose and it still pulled. I then replaced the second hose and it solved the problem. I kept that rig for 6 more years and never had the problem re-occur.

I used to fly into Cecil field, and JAX years ago-- before your time, and also in the early 70's.
I was Air Force-- T-38's

[k1hog]

Please explain this brake hose thing?

Johnnie

[Duner]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by k1hog:
Please explain this brake hose thing?

Johnnie </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Here's the link pictures I posted last Oct of the WH Vent Kit. There's one set of hoses on each side.

[Max Hubrich]

Johnnie,

My thread was referring to the high pressure hydraulic hoses that are used in all vehicle front wheels. In order to allow your "steer wheels" to turn, the steel tubing comes from the master cylinder and ends on a bracket on the frame-- this is where the rubber tubing attaches to the brake calipers/wheel cylinders and flexes to allow turns. These hoses fail, internally, over time, and won't allow the fluid to release the calipers which causes pulling and over heated pads and rotors.

I hope this explains my comment---