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Old 08-26-2007, 12:29 PM   #1
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Well, today here in NC I did my PDI inspection on a pre-owned 2005 Bounder 34F W22 chassis coach...crawled all over under the beast, saw the dreaded fuel filter, the Allison transmission, the front wheel pins, the Chevy innards...not a thing out of order or a drop of anything ever leaking!

We'll be finalizing the deal tomorrow am, and hopefully hitting the road back to NJ by noon.

Thanks to all here and on the Fleetwood forum for all your opinions, observations, recommendations, suggestions and support.

I feel confident we're buying a quality coach and a great chassis!

Now who knows how to troubleshoot a Norcold automatic icemaker? Does WH cover this?

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Old 08-26-2007, 12:29 PM   #2
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Well, today here in NC I did my PDI inspection on a pre-owned 2005 Bounder 34F W22 chassis coach...crawled all over under the beast, saw the dreaded fuel filter, the Allison transmission, the front wheel pins, the Chevy innards...not a thing out of order or a drop of anything ever leaking!

We'll be finalizing the deal tomorrow am, and hopefully hitting the road back to NJ by noon.

Thanks to all here and on the Fleetwood forum for all your opinions, observations, recommendations, suggestions and support.

I feel confident we're buying a quality coach and a great chassis!

Now who knows how to troubleshoot a Norcold automatic icemaker? Does WH cover this?

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Old 08-26-2007, 02:54 PM   #3
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The Norcold requires 110VAC, freezer temperatures, and time before havesting.

Enjoy your W22! I'm happy with my "first year" (2001).
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Old 08-26-2007, 03:30 PM   #4
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And if its anything like mine, water to the unit!!! Seriously, you need to make sure the water line to the unit is turned on. They had located the valve to mine under the area that the washer/dryer was allocated...
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:21 AM   #5
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Thanks, guys...so much going on I haven't had time to worry about this yet.

I do see there are two valves feeding the ice maker, one under sink and in an outside compartment I saw somewhere...both looked set to open, just need to confirm water is getting to the ice maker.

After that, I'll have to maybe pull the ice maker and inspect closely...we'll get to the bottom of this.

Seller had the unit almost two years, knew it didn't work, just never cared to get it back to their dealer...I understand...RV dealers for service...try to avoid them like the plague...
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Old 08-29-2007, 09:53 AM   #6
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Workhorse covers the engine, chassis (rails) drive train and the like, The DASH steering, I'm not sure about the dash air.

EVERYTHING ELSE, Roof air, Fridge, stove, propane system, generator, Televisions, and even some of what's on the dash is part of the house.

I once heard a description of an ocean liner: A hotel with a bow and stern"

Think of your Class A as a house on a Truck

Workhorse warrants the TRUCK. Not the house


Ice makers are real simple... I can trouble shoot most all of them hands on.. Long distance is somewhat harder.
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Old 08-29-2007, 11:16 AM   #7
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John, you know I was kidding about WH covering it, don't you???

Thanks for posting about your icemaker expertise, when I get to it maybe I'll PM you for suggestions.
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:16 PM   #8
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before you rip into the icemaker, make a stop here at Bryant Rv, scroll down the page to the model number of your fridge and download the complete service manual. I have found this site to be a fantastic resource for all sorts of things.
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:50 PM   #9
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Thanks...I've actually had Chris help me on the other forum a few years ago, glad you pointed it out.

I do have water flow to the ice maker control unit on the back side of the fridge...have to check the obvious...that there's power to the outlet feeding the ice maker...fridge is in the other other outlet and that works...may have to remove the ice maker and confirm water flow thru the insulated line from the bottom of the control unit to the ice maker...could be pinched, who knows...
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:56 PM   #10
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The icemaker will not make ice until many hours after the fridge is turned on.

Also, to check water flow thru the valve into the icemaker itself, unplug the two wires into the water valve on the back of the unit, make yourself a electical chord with blade clips and clip these onto the wires you just uncliped, and plug your cord in....water should shoot into the icemaker itself as you do this. This is also a quick and easy way to winterize the unit.
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Old 08-30-2007, 03:00 AM   #11
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I know this is not WH related, but here's where I am on the ice maker issue:

Searched forum and see this is a fairly common problem.

I just purchased a 2005 Bounder 34F with a 4 door Norcold in it...2nd owner said ice maker never worked and was planning on getting it to the dealer, but never did.

I've got power to the outlet, ice maker plugged in, water to the solenoid, cooled unit down for 12 hours, arm in down position...ice maker doesn't ever cycle. I think they cycle even if water not present.

Removed the ice maker this morning, still has a little antifreeze remnants in tray.

Guess I should the test solenoid valve 2 wire connection, test wires to the ice maker w/voltmeter?

Unit has hardly ever been used, what I don't know is if the ice maker ever worked...

The four wires going to the ice maker module plug are the brown and white from the AC power, a black from the solenoid valve and a green to ground.
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Old 08-30-2007, 03:01 AM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FrontRangeRVer:
The icemaker will not make ice until many hours after the fridge is turned on.

Also, to check water flow thru the valve into the icemaker itself, unplug the two wires into the water valve on the back of the unit, make yourself a electical chord with blade clips and clip these onto the wires you just uncliped, and plug your cord in....water should shoot into the icemaker itself as you do this. This is also a quick and easy way to winterize the unit. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Thanks, I'm gonna make one of these up today and check if I have water to the freezer compartment.
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:10 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GerryB54:
John, you know I was kidding about WH covering it, don't you???

Thanks for posting about your icemaker expertise, when I get to it maybe I'll PM you for suggestions. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Actually no, Workhorse warranty in 05 was 3 years IIRC and I'm sitting in an 05, of course that warranty was given to the ORIGINAL owner, and not to you, so on workhorse items you are SOL (So Outta Luck) on warranty issues.

Same for the house save the house warranty is often less. Warranty is provided by the seller to the buyer. Since you bought used, either 1:
Assume all issues have been dealt with or 2: Buy an "extended warranty"

NOTE: Recalls, are another matter.

I've manged to get a couple things fixed under warranty, but then it's my wife's name on the ORIGINAL title.
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:36 AM   #14
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John-D:
Actually no, Workhorse warranty in 05 was 3 years IIRC and I'm sitting in an 05, of course that warranty was given to the ORIGINAL owner, and not to you, so on workhorse items you are SOL (So Outta Luck) on warranty issues. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>John-D, A Workhorse warranty issued in 2005 would still be in effect today per the 3 year or 36,000 mile provision and it is transferable to a second owner.

Unsure what IIRC is.

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