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Old 09-12-2010, 12:42 PM   #15
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LOOKS GREAT! thanks, Ed
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:46 PM   #16
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I'd have the front rotors turned/trued first. They usually cause most of the shimmy you feel in the steering wheel. You usually don't feel the steering wheel shake if it's the rear wheels.

It's not uncommon for the shimmy to subside as you slow down.

Good luck,
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:32 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Max Hubrich View Post
I'd have the front rotors turned/trued first. They usually cause most of the shimmy you feel in the steering wheel. You usually don't feel the steering wheel shake if it's the rear wheels.
I concur!
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Old 09-17-2010, 12:13 PM   #18
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Hi, The pulsing is probably due to rotor warp or brake pad material left on the caliper.

You should be part of the Workhorse brake recall. In that case they will replace all 4 calipers and replace or turn the rotors. Make sure you bed/break in the new pads or turned rotors. This will insure the rotors are properly coated. Also make sure the brakes are completely flushed. It takes 3 quarts of fluid to do it correctly. Workhorse only pays for 2 quarts so the other quart will be on your dime.

Here is the bedding in procedure recommended by one manufacturer:
  • After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure. Do not come to a complete stop.
  • Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Again do not come to a complete stop.
  • DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
  • Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down before stopping. If you stop while the new pads and rotors are hot the pad material may stick to the rotor where it stops turning and create a high spot that will cause surging. Once the bedding in process is complete stopping with hot brakes should not transfer material. You may smell the brakes when you park for the first 300 miles while the brakes settle in.
  • After step 4 your new pads are ready for use. Once the pads are bedded in there will be transfer from the pads to the rotor and that transfer will protect the pads and rotos and make braking more efficient.
As for the steering wheel being off center I would let a authorized Workhorse service center check that. It may be that some other adjustments need to be made.
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Old 10-14-2010, 06:52 PM   #19
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Quick update...had front rotors turned..no shimmy whatsoever at any speed...pedal seems a little softer but figure that's due to the new rotor surface?

I should add that the MH only has 13,000 miles on it..I am second owner..bought it with 12,500 and dont know the history unfortunately

They did not replace the shoes, just turned the rotors.
In my old days when disks first came out I know the rule was that if you turn/replace rotors you always replace the pads too but guess newer disk brakes do just fine without replacing the pads when having rotors turned?

Thanks for any info on that question!!
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Old 10-15-2010, 08:59 AM   #20
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I think I'd test drive it to another mechanic and have him give it a once over.

I have never seen ABS kick in because of a rough road but in theory it could. If it was rough enough.. SLIPPERY yes, rough no.

The wheel is off center more likely due to bad alignment.

There may be other issues.

I'd have a pro go over the ride before I put pen to paper.
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