|
|
09-12-2010, 12:42 PM
|
#15
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,523
|
LOOKS GREAT! thanks, Ed
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
09-12-2010, 01:46 PM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pikeville, NC
Posts: 1,775
|
Moonchaser TX
I'd have the front rotors turned/trued first. They usually cause most of the shimmy you feel in the steering wheel. You usually don't feel the steering wheel shake if it's the rear wheels.
It's not uncommon for the shimmy to subside as you slow down.
Good luck,
__________________
Max H,
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, 37', 3778, W-22, 8.1 Vortac, Ultra Power upgrade, CAI (cold air intake), Taylor wires, colder plugs, Koni shocks.
|
|
|
09-12-2010, 02:32 PM
|
#17
|
Moderator Emeritus
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,641
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Hubrich
I'd have the front rotors turned/trued first. They usually cause most of the shimmy you feel in the steering wheel. You usually don't feel the steering wheel shake if it's the rear wheels.
|
I concur!
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
|
|
|
09-17-2010, 12:13 PM
|
#18
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 105
|
Hi, The pulsing is probably due to rotor warp or brake pad material left on the caliper.
You should be part of the Workhorse brake recall. In that case they will replace all 4 calipers and replace or turn the rotors. Make sure you bed/break in the new pads or turned rotors. This will insure the rotors are properly coated. Also make sure the brakes are completely flushed. It takes 3 quarts of fluid to do it correctly. Workhorse only pays for 2 quarts so the other quart will be on your dime.
Here is the bedding in procedure recommended by one manufacturer:
- After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure. Do not come to a complete stop.
- Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Again do not come to a complete stop.
- DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
- Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down before stopping. If you stop while the new pads and rotors are hot the pad material may stick to the rotor where it stops turning and create a high spot that will cause surging. Once the bedding in process is complete stopping with hot brakes should not transfer material. You may smell the brakes when you park for the first 300 miles while the brakes settle in.
- After step 4 your new pads are ready for use. Once the pads are bedded in there will be transfer from the pads to the rotor and that transfer will protect the pads and rotos and make braking more efficient.
As for the steering wheel being off center I would let a authorized Workhorse service center check that. It may be that some other adjustments need to be made.
|
|
|
10-14-2010, 06:52 PM
|
#19
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Kerrville, TX
Posts: 153
|
Quick update...had front rotors turned..no shimmy whatsoever at any speed...pedal seems a little softer but figure that's due to the new rotor surface?
I should add that the MH only has 13,000 miles on it..I am second owner..bought it with 12,500 and dont know the history unfortunately
They did not replace the shoes, just turned the rotors.
In my old days when disks first came out I know the rule was that if you turn/replace rotors you always replace the pads too but guess newer disk brakes do just fine without replacing the pads when having rotors turned?
Thanks for any info on that question!!
__________________
Curt & Susan 2009 38' Newmar Grand Star 3752
Front Engine Diesel Freightliner Chassis Cummins 340 ISB/Allison
Toad: Honda Element, Ready Brute integrated tow bar and braking system, Protect-a-Tow
|
|
|
10-15-2010, 08:59 AM
|
#20
|
Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
|
I think I'd test drive it to another mechanic and have him give it a once over.
I have never seen ABS kick in because of a rough road but in theory it could. If it was rough enough.. SLIPPERY yes, rough no.
The wheel is off center more likely due to bad alignment.
There may be other issues.
I'd have a pro go over the ride before I put pen to paper.
__________________
Home is where I park it!
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|