Community Forums

BFlinn181 · 05-23-2018, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daveinet

Actually what you should be doing is watching the sight glass. If you see a lot of bubbles, you need to add more. When it gets to a point where you see a few bubbles here and there, then you are about right.
Too much coolant can be fine on a cool day, but on a hot day can lock the compressor.

Most modern R-134a systems don't even have a sight glass anymore. Also, the synthetic ester oil used to lubricate the compressor doesn't break down and can look like 'bubbles' flowing past the glass. High and Low pressures against ambient temperatures is the proper way to charge and know when the system is full. If you evacuate the system and recharge it from empty, there is often a sticker in the engine compartment that will tell you the proper amount of refrigerant to use.

wa8yxm · 05-24-2018, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

I wouldn't call it a 'FIX' when you say it's still leaking somewhere and the low pressure isn't what it should be. .

Some loss of pressure on a 10 year old system is not uncommon.

But the differene between "FIX" and "Repair" is.. that slow leak at least in many use.. I'd call what he did a "FIX" Finding the leak, which it appears he is planing on doing, and fixing it. That is a REPAIR. (he mentioned putting UV leak detector. When he goes back next week with the UV lamp. I expect he will see a great light as it were).

I have the same issue by the way.. Had it professionally serviced last spring but still needed to add a bit this spring. Have not measured pressure yet.

olskool4x4 · 05-25-2018, 10:50 AM

Update, I checked the pressure today and there's no pressure drop after one week, and I can't find any leaks with the UV light. Driving down the road the AC is blowing out at 45 degrees on an 86 degree day in El Paso Texas. I also hooked up the AC gauges to check the High and Low Side, the (Low) is 46 PSI and the (High) is 245. The AC Chart show's an 85 degree day 45-55 PSI (Low) and 225-250 (High). I would like to thank everyone for all the great recommendations and advice, I now fill comfortable servicing my own AC.

Mudfrog · 05-26-2018, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Bottom line, if it works and cools air and the suction line is cold...you got it. Any low side pressure above say 10 pounds is OK...if it works!!!!

I don't know of any system that will work with low side pressure that low. There may be an exception but the low pressure switch will take the compressor out long before 10 psi is reached on most systems.

Over filling the system to the point that a compressor locked up would be a tough thing to do. A person would have to try pretty hard to get themselves in that situation. It may not be perfect for maximizing efficiency but adding refrigerant to a system on a 70°ish day is not hard to do without gauges.

larryjb2 · 05-27-2018, 05:44 PM

I have charged auto a/c systems before and have the manifold gauges and a vacuum pump so not a total newbie.
I had no trouble connecting the low side quick coupling but could not get the high side coupling to go on.Have they changed over the years or is there a trick to it?
I've used this manifold set in the past with out any trouble,it is a R134 set.
The low side coupling also has cap on what looks like a valve.what is this for?

CJ7365 · 05-27-2018, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larryjb2

I have charged auto a/c systems before and have the manifold gauges and a vacuum pump so not a total newbie.
I had no trouble connecting the low side quick coupling but could not get the high side coupling to go on.Have they changed over the years or is there a trick to it?
I've used this manifold set in the past with out any trouble,it is a R134 set.
The low side coupling also has cap on what looks like a valve.what is this for?

You have a 2003 so it should be 134a refrigerant, not sure why you cant get the high side quick connect on, the only time the connectors change was from R12 to 134. Check your o ring on your quick connector sometimes these get mangled and restricts the connector from going on.

Not trying to insult your intelligence but make sure the knob on your high side quick connector is out/open and not in/closed.

That valve on your low side is so you can close off your system to remove your compressor without loosing the refrigerant. You should also have one on the High side as well, I have seen these on older York compressors before.

A pic of your high side fitting and high side quick connector might help out too.

larryjb2 · 05-27-2018, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJ7365

You have a 2003 so it should be 134a refrigerant, not sure why you cant get the high side quick connect on, the only time the connectors change was from R12 to 134. Check your o ring on your quick connector sometimes these get mangled and restricts the connector from going on.

Not trying to insult your intelligence but make sure the knob on your high side quick connector is out/open and not in/closed.

That valve on your low side is so you can close off your system to remove your compressor without loosing the refrigerant. You should also have one on the High side as well, I have seen these on older York compressors before.

A pic of your high side fitting and high side quick connector might help out too.

The problem was with my quick connector.The o-ring was dried out from lack of use.A little refrigerant oil and it slipped right on!

iamblum · 05-28-2018, 08:16 AM

Just used a "fix" in a can on my dash a/c to limp it until I could actually have it serviced. WOW I can't believe how well it has worked so far. It dang near froze me out on the 3 1/2 hour drive up and 3 1/2 hour drive back. It was blowing hot air before, but now it is nice and cold

Tony Lee · 05-28-2018, 10:46 AM

Walmarts now sell a smaller can for $5 with nearly as much refrigerant in it as the 30 dollar kits. Needs an adaptor as well but then can use the charging kit that came with the expensive product.

Bit of a novely being able to do it DIY as the products aren't available in Australia. I've been topping the system in my MH here every year as required.

I think the problem with overfilling is not so much locking the compressor as having the safety relief valve blow when things get hot and dump the whole charge

udid · 05-29-2018, 12:55 PM

Curious....

I have a 1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm 28ft on a Chevy P30 chassis 454 TBIw4L80E trans. Anyone know what type of refrigerant was used in the A/C system? R12 or R134a?

BFlinn181 · 05-29-2018, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by udidwht

Curious....

I have a 1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm 28ft on a Chevy P30 chassis 454 TBIw4L80E trans. Anyone know what type of refrigerant was used in the A/C system? R12 or R134a?

R-134a. The fittings for R-12 are different and the R-134a fittings won't connect if it was R-12. Look for a sticker around the radiator for I.D. of the refrigerant.

bruceisla · 05-29-2018, 02:12 PM

Many units do not have a sight glass. In an Evans unit, when properly charged on an 80 degree day, the low side will be about 20-25lb. Cold vent temperature should be 20 degrees (or slightly more) than warm intake vent temp.

BTW, a couple of things to note:

Some areas are now selling the "self sealing" cans of refrigerant and leak-stop. Requires an adapter to use your older piercing valve.

Evans has stated that most RV systems will slowly leak refrigerant due to hose porosity. In other words, long rubber hoses are going to leak refrigerant thru the hose walls.

MSGDLD · 06-16-2018, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by udidwht

Curious....

I have a 1994 Fleetwood Southwind Storm 28ft on a Chevy P30 chassis 454 TBIw4L80E trans. Anyone know what type of refrigerant was used in the A/C system? R12 or R134a?

As old as it is, it was probably R12. My ‘98 was R12.

One way to check is to look at the condenser, which is in front of the radiator. R12 used really fat tubes, R134 more closely resembles an engine’s radiator.

These days it would be swapped over to R134, and it would be hard to believe it still has original refrigerant.

udid · 06-18-2018, 03:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSGDLD

As old as it is, it was probably R12. My ‘98 was R12.

One way to check is to look at the condenser, which is in front of the radiator. R12 used really fat tubes, R134 more closely resembles an engine’s radiator.

These days it would be swapped over to R134, and it would be hard to believe it still has original refrigerant.

Able to tell from this shot?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oilh4kcssl...B1%5D.JPG?dl=0