DIY Lubing Caliper Slide Pins

[troth]

Has anyone done their own pin lube? I've read the Bosch manual and it doesn't look like rocket science; should be simple tools and if I do one at a time, I don't think the calipers need to be removed.

Degree of difficulty?

Time involved?

Special notes, lube, or watch-out-fors?


troth@mail.cmh.net

[oemtech]

Not difficult... just like another brakes, just bigger. The hardest part is R&R the wheels.You need a 33 mm socket and something that can torque down the lug nuts to 450 lbs.

[troth]

Thanks Dale. -But I thought the pins could be lubed without removing the wheels. Just one bolt/tube at a time... (no ???)

TR

[oemtech]

Quote:

Originally Posted by troth Thanks Dale. -But I thought the pins could be lubed without removing the wheels. Just one bolt/tube at a time... (no ???) TR

I think you can do the fronts that way but not the rears. IIRC Max Hubrich posted how he did it sometime back.

[oemtech]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Hubrich Caliper slide pin lube job--- Today I did the lube job on my '02, W-22, 37' Mountain Aire, caliper pins. You do not have to remove the wheels. I used a 13/16" box/open end wrench. Remove either the top or bottom retaining bolt (about 1" long", and swing the caliper forward until it touches the wheel rim. Rotate the pin and it should slide out. It comes out with a rubber, accordian style, dust sleeve on it. Clean it with appropiate solvent, lube it up good with either slide pin or disc brake lubricant and re-install. You will need to rotate the pin until the caliper slides back into place-it has two "flats" on it. One "flat" side needs to be parallel to the machined part of the caliper. The pin is healthy in its size-- .788 thousands (more than 3/4"). Reinstall the retaining bolt, then remove the other pin and duplicate the cleaning, lube procedure. The two top rear ones wouldn't come all the way out because the suspension leaf springs are in the way. They come out far enough to re-lube the pins and re-install. Took about an hour and a half. The rear calipers swing aft since they are mounted on on the rear side of the axle. My pins seemed to be in good shape, and well lubed when I took them out.

I copied this from another thread.

[speed racer]

If yo have 22" wheels you can do this without removing the wheels. I did it on my late 04 chassis.

[troth]

Great response! Thanks Oemy & Speed Racer!!!

TR

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by troth Great response! Thanks Oemy & Speed Racer!!!

TR, I would not spend too much effort in lubing pins. You would be better off flushing your brake fluid. If you want to lube your pins do it the right way. Pull the wheels, pull the pins and remove the caliper. Inspect the all friction surfaces and clean the sliders and inspect all the brake components for wear and or damage. Do not hang the weight of the caliper on the hydraulic hose.

If you are going to do this service to this level consider buying a set of after market loaded 66mm calipers.

If you push back the pistons they might get stuck under normal use and this could create a bigger problem.

Short of doing this service the right way, there really is no pressing need to do it at all. Ask the techs at a service center if the pins get stuck when removing them on a caliper replacement and 99% of them will tell you it's never been a problem.

[Bob (WA0MQE)]

The pin lubrication thing was one of Workhorse's early original ideas of what the brake problem was. Obviously the problem had nothing to do with the pins.

I agree with Driver, if you are going to do it go all the way remove the wheels and inspect everything. You can get an up-close look at both sides of the disc's and fully check the calipers with the wheels off.

[DAN L]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oemtech Not difficult... just like another brakes, just bigger. The hardest part is R&R the wheels.You need a 33 mm socket and something that can torque down the lug nuts to 450 lbs.

make that... 475 ft lbs. (on my moho).