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leesdx1 · 06-05-2016, 07:05 PM

Hello:

I did this mod today and now the I have no start. I replace the original ignition switch with BWD CS83. I followed Oemy's DYI to the T and triple check all wires and looks good. The ignition switch, dimmer switch and the shifter lockout functions checks okay too. Battery shows 12.75 Volts. I did notice that this part below was hot, 120 degree, probably from turning the key so much.

Hope someone out there can help me trouble shoot this and get old the beast purring again. Thank you

hawkeye1995 · 06-05-2016, 11:39 PM

Not knowing the whole problem, I will try to help. I did this mode without any problems. So it should have worked without issues. I did almost get the 12 ga. pink and red wire mixed up. I know one of the big problems is to make sure you have a good ground. I made a ground just for the mod. I did not piggy back the ground to any thing else. Do the instrument lights come on when you turn the key on? Make sure you did blow any fuses during the process. I would check all fuses anyway. That could be a problem. With little info, it will be hard to guess. Check all connections. If you disconnected the battery, make sure you have a good connection. A loose positive connection would not let me start one time. Lights come on, but soon as I tried to start, it would just click. Do you have a emergency start switch? If so, try that. These are just a few thoughts, hope they will help some. One last thing, where did you buy the new ignition switch? I'm not familiar with that number. I used the Autozone LS309 ignition switch. Oemy's site has a list of approved switches. Hope this can help some. Good luck. One last thing. I had to run my 40amp power from the positive side of the battery, because both lugs on the fuse box were being utilized, so make sure, this is not a issue.

leesdx1 · 06-06-2016, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawkeye1995

Not knowing the whole problem, I will try to help. I did this mode without any problems. So it should have worked without issues. I did almost get the 12 ga. pink and red wire mixed up. I know one of the big problems is to make sure you have a good ground. I made a ground just for the mod. I did not piggy back the ground to any thing else. Do the instrument lights come on when you turn the key on? Make sure you did blow any fuses during the process. I would check all fuses anyway. That could be a problem. With little info, it will be hard to guess. Check all connections. If you disconnected the battery, make sure you have a good connection. A loose positive connection would not let me start one time. Lights come on, but soon as I tried to start, it would just click. Do you have a emergency start switch? If so, try that. These are just a few thoughts, hope they will help some. One last thing, where did you buy the new ignition switch? I'm not familiar with that number. I used the Autozone LS309 ignition switch. Oemy's site has a list of approved switches. Hope this can help some. Good luck. One last thing. I had to run my 40amp power from the positive side of the battery, because both lugs on the fuse box were being utilized, so make sure, this is not a issue.

hawkeye1995:

Thanks for your reply. I double check everything you stated, except trying the er start. The ignition switch is from OReilly. I did some research on the switch and found out its for, without lock cylinder. That maybe the problem. I'm going to try and return the switch for refund and I know they are going to give me a hard time. The funny thing about this, I bought the Autozone LS309 and went down the street to OReilly to see what they had. OReilly switch looked more heavy duty (more metal) so I returned the autozone switch. Both lifetime warrant. My bad i guess. Going to get the Autozone switch tomorrow, hope it works. Thx

tomwalt · 06-06-2016, 09:59 AM

If you replaced the ignition switch and installed the relay mod at the same time, while you have it apart swapping the relays you could jumper the original pink wire to the 12V wire (= wires on pins 30 to 87) and thus test without the relay in the system it to ensure the new ignition switch is working OK.
This would jumper it back to the original wiring set-up. This is also nice to know how to do incase the new relay ever failed.

You could do this with a meter by seeing if the pink wire ever gets 12V with the ignition switch on. I can hear my AAPB pump run with the ignition to run - my AAPB control comes thru this same path.

leesdx1 · 06-06-2016, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomwalt

If you replaced the ignition switch and installed the relay mod at the same time, while you have it apart swapping the relays you could jumper the original pink wire to the 12V wire (= wires on pins 30 to 87) and thus test without the relay in the system it to ensure the new ignition switch is working OK.
This would jumper it back to the original wiring set-up. This is also nice to know how to do incase the new relay ever failed.

You could do this with a meter by seeing if the pink wire ever gets 12V with the ignition switch on. I can hear my AAPB pump run with the ignition to run - my AAPB control comes thru this same path.

Tom:

I did the jump test and still the same, no start just a click. I then reinstalled my old ignition switch and bingo, she cranks. Either the BWD switch was defected from the start or it just the wrong switch. OReilly saids it the correct switch, so they will replace it under warranty. Man I can now R&R the ignition switch in less than 5 minutes, LOL. At least I know now its a switch issue. Thx

CJ7365 · 06-06-2016, 07:11 PM

The part that you are showing in your picture, is a solenoid that prevents you shifting to drive without stepping on the brake pedal, it is normal that it gets that hot, once you shift into drive or another gear, there is not power to it and no more heat.

leesdx1 · 06-07-2016, 09:11 PM

Up-date folks:

Good and bad news. I got the 2nd BWD switch under warranty and it did the same thing, just a click. So I return it and requested a refund. DO NOT REPLACE YOUR IGNITION SWITCH WITH THE BRAND BWD. I went to Autozone and purchase the LS309 switch, installed it and she cranks but no start.

It was getting late, but I did check fuses and wire connections and check out ok and have a temporary ground, but don't think that would cause a no start. Anybody have any ideas what the heck is going on?? Thx

hawkeye1995 · 06-07-2016, 09:55 PM

leesdx1 - That ground is very important. I believe it says to make sure to use a good solid ground. I screwed mine into the bottom plate on the steer column. It worked very well, and has continued to work. Odd that your old one worked, and the LS309 did not work. That is the one I have, and I have a locking wheel. Try the jump test from Tomwalt with the new switch. Question, is the original switch burnt? or defective? If not use it. I don't see the LS309 switch being the problem. What I would do is take the old switch to Autozone and let them cross reference the numbers to insure the LS309 will work on your MH. There should be a number somewhere on the old switch. Let us know what you find out and the fix once you are complete. Good Luck.

leesdx1 · 06-07-2016, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawkeye1995

leesdx1 - That ground is very important. I believe it says to make sure to use a good solid ground. I screwed mine into the bottom plate on the steer column. It worked very well, and has continued to work. Odd that your old one worked, and the LS309 did not work. That is the one I have, and I have a locking wheel. Try the jump test from Tomwalt with the new switch. Question, is the original switch burnt? or defective? If not use it. I don't see the LS309 switch being the problem. What I would do is take the old switch to Autozone and let them cross reference the numbers to insure the LS309 will work on your MH. There should be a number somewhere on the old switch. Let us know what you find out and the fix once you are complete. Good Luck.

Here's a pix of my temporary ground. When I reinstalled my old switch and did the jump test it just crank too, I thought I had to install the other 2 parts for it to start. I think the LS309 is the correct switch. Before the mod it started right up. Maybe I try to find a better ground and keep checking for loose wires. Thx

tomwalt · 06-08-2016, 08:07 AM

Note: To jumper back to original you would jumper the wire coming from the ignition switch (pin 85 on OEMY's diagram) to the pink wire.
FYI - Pin 30 to 87 gives you a constant 12V and doesn't test the ignition switch - if you want to get back to original wiring and test the ignition switch pin 85 to 87 would bypass the relay and turn on/off with the ignition switch if you wired it according to OEMY's diagram.

Sorry you are having such a frustrating event - keep at it. I think the ignition switch or associated connectors are confusing the issue for you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomwalt

If you replaced the ignition switch and installed the relay mod at the same time, while you have it apart swapping the relays you could jumper the original pink wire to the 12V wire (= wires on pins 30 to 87) and thus test without the relay in the system it to ensure the new ignition switch is working OK.
This would jumper it back to the original wiring set-up. This is also nice to know how to do incase the new relay ever failed.

You could do this with a meter by seeing if the pink wire ever gets 12V with the ignition switch on. I can hear my AAPB pump run with the ignition to run - my AAPB control comes thru this same path.

hawkeye1995 · 06-08-2016, 03:50 PM

leesdx1 - Sorry you are having so much trouble with this mod. I don't want to sound like I'm insulting you in any way. But this could be a problem. On my relay, the number were backwards from what is showed in the picture. I would double check the four numbers on the relay, and make sure they are connected correctly. Like I said, mine did not match. The number 85 and 86 wires were on opposite sides. Its worth a look. I don't see any problem with your ground. It is by itself.

leesdx1 · 06-09-2016, 12:06 AM

Hey Guys..Please no need to be sorry or feel that you are insulting me.

I appreciate all the help you have offered.

Now, I did the by-pass on pin 85 and 87 as tomwalt suggested, turned the key and sweet music to the ears, she fired right up. So I know the NEW Autozone LS309 ignition switch is working correctly. So back to the relay making sure the wires are correct on the pins as I did several times already. I did notice the ground terminal on pin 86 was loose so I squeeze the terminal for a snug fit. Turn the key again and she stated right up, GREAT. As hawkeye1995 stated the ground is important. Without a good rely ground the engine will just crank. Well, it's time to finally put the covers back on the steering column.

I did notice something else that I didn't notice before. The Travel/Park switch. Switch on travel, the radio would only come on, on acc and key on. Switch on park, the radio would stay on regardless if Key out, disconnect switch off, shore un-plug or even pin 30 (12V) disconnected. Maybe this will be better on another thread.

Anyway, many thanks for staying with me and for all your help out there.

hawkeye1995 · 06-09-2016, 04:32 PM

leesdx1 - Sounds great that you got the problem solved! As far as the radio, don't quote me, but I think it is tied to the house battery. It is suppose to remain hot with key in off or park position. It is so you can play the radio or cd anytime. Mine has speakers in the back bedroom and some up front. That is why it is very important to make sure it is off once you are finished camping or traveling. Again congrats, glad we could help. Take care and may you always have safe travels.

Podivin · 06-09-2016, 04:43 PM

My '96 Southwind has a 'Radio' switch beside the door and another in the cabinets above the bed (you can only see that switch when laying in bed - or is that lying, I can never remember...). Both are just temporary switches, push and release and they go back to the position they were in. However they work like a 3 way hall light switch. Press either switch and the radio will either turn on or off, whichever it's not when you press the switch.
All that's to say, check for a 'Radio' switch somewhere in your coach to see if that turns off the radio for you when the key is off.